X tools

[Blue Hills]

Anyone got any views on them?

Wiggle is currently promoting them, prices decent.

I'm pretty sure I've got their crank extractor - this:

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/x-tools-crank-extractor-one-size/

though I am pretty sure I bought it from Chain Reaction (yes, I know that, grr, they are now one and the same)

and must say that I found it perfectly decent for what is quite a tough job/test of a tool.

I ask as although I am always keen to save money, I believe in using quality tools - the consequences of using cheap/poorly made tools can be very expensive.

 

[Yellow Saddle]

X-Tools is a fine brand, in general. But, don't become addicted to one brand and rather buy best-of-breed than simply true blue. For instance, ParkTool makes some fine tools but its wheel centering bridge is clumsy. The ParkTool ISIS BB socket requires a 3/8th socket drive rather than 1/2 inch. That was problematic for me so I chose another brand. The parktool BB spanner that completely encircles the BB cup is clumsy - it cannot be used on some suspension bikes. Get another brand, in this case, BBB.

I've used and sold and still own some X-Tools products. Which ones were you interested in, maybe I can help with specific recommendations.

 

[Threevok]

I have many X-Tools. I tend to use them more that Park Tools because they are cheaper and also some of their tools are better than the Park ones.

BBB and Cyclo are ample too - for some tools I've tried

 

[Threevok]

Headset press ????

Unless it's carbon - what's wrong with two pieces of wood and a hammer ?

On the same note, I just yesterday purchased a BBB Open Link Closing link tool.

KMC have a separate tool for each operation !!!!

 

[Threevok]

Again, unless it was carbon, I wouldn't bother.

You could make your own quite easily - using a length of theaded bolt, some nuts and washers and two pieces of wood.

I made a very similar device for installing the suspension pivots on my old bike

 

[GrumpyGregry]

KMC have a separate tool for each operation !!!!

Very nice tools they are too.

 

[GrumpyGregry]

[QUOTE 4884805, member: 45"]If I'm working on someone else's bike I'd like to minimise the risk of damage. I turned down a request to change the headset on a friend's very expensive frame for this reason.

I've also had difficulties in the past getting a headset to go in straight using the hammer and block method.[/QUOTE]
How do you go about removing the old one?

As the bloke on my course said "If you need a hammer you're too late."

 

[Threevok]

How do you go about removing the old one?

As the bloke on my course said "If you need a hammer you're too late."

Personally, I use a mallet and something non-marking - like a wooden dowel.

Working from the inside of the headset in a circular motion, i tap at the inside lip of the opposite bearing cup. Once removed, I turn the frame over and repeat the process for the other cup.

I've not worked on carbon though and would probably use a specific tool or (better still) get my LBS to do it

 

[GrumpyGregry]

[QUOTE 4884838, member: 45"]I've got one of those tools you use to knock it out from inside. Not a screwdriver, the proper tool.[/QUOTE]
The expandy thing?

 

[Yellow Saddle]

[QUOTE 4884782, member: 45"]Hanger alignment tool?

Headset press?[/QUOTE]
They are both fine at that price-point and the hanger alignment tool is better than ParkTool but nothing on the Shimano tool. That's the best. It works with a little steel rule and tells you how many millimeters you are out, which divided by 2, gives you the distance the tool has to work and takes out guesswork and speeds up the job.

The best headset press in the industry is that from Pedro's. It is expensive though, just too much for an amateur.

 

[Yellow Saddle]

[QUOTE 4884836, member: 45"]I've got one of those. That gives me more problems with the headset going in wonky than any other method I've tried.

As I said, I'll take the risk with my own bikes. If there's a better option, and a tool that's going to last and end up getting loads of use (and loans) I'll use it.[/QUOTE]

There is no better headset press than a large bench vice with aluminium jaws and a helper. Two people make light of that job in a few seconds. With a headset press you always feel as if you need another pair of hands.

 

[GrumpyGregry]

[QUOTE 4884836, member: 45"]I've got one of those. That gives me more problems with the headset going in wonky than any other method I've tried.

As I said, I'll take the risk with my own bikes. If there's a better option, and a tool that's going to last and end up getting loads of use (and loans) I'll use it.[/QUOTE]
It's the wood, I find that makes it wonky. I find a large alloy washer between wood and cup gives better results. But won't use it on a high quality frame I don't own. Headsets always get done by a specific mechanic in a specific workshop.

 

[Blue Hills]

Any views on the wheel truing stands:

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/x-tools-pro-mechanic-wheel-truing-stand-blacksilver-one-s/

and:

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/x-tools-home-mechanic-wheel-truing-stand-one-size/

or dishing guage:

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/x-tools-wheel-dishing-gauge/

@Yellow Saddle




?

 

[Threevok]

I bought Roger Musson's wheel building book, with every intention of building my own wheel-truing stand he does in the book.

Still haven't got around to it yet. Saying that, not got around to needing a wheel trued

 

[Blue Hills]

Yes I bought the book as well. Haven't done anything with it yet.

Impressed by what I have read of the book.

Can't see myself building my own stand and guage though and i any case haven't got the tools so in all ways it will be better to buy them. So looking for something good but cheap. Don't see why you would have to pay a fortune as I get the impression that they are effectively quite simple.