The men's dress style thread..

[Accy cyclist]

I wouldn't lace my dress shoes like that, I prefer to lace them parallel to the top,side to side, looks much neater.

I'm going to change them to my preferred way of lacing shoes (below). How they are now is quite a clever way of lacing shoes, but it's not for me.

 

[Profpointy]

I'm going to change them to my preferred way of lacing shoes (below). How they are now is quite a clever way of lacing shoes, but it's not for me.

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That's much much better. Oxfords should never be laced the cris-cross stylee; though either method is OK for the various derby styles

 

[grldtnr]

I'm going to change them to my preferred way of lacing shoes (below). How they are now is quite a clever way of lacing shoes, but it's not for me.

View attachment 724134

As Punch was apt to say,' That's the way to do it!'

 

[grldtnr]

I might buy it yet, but I already have a pair of Cordings camel moleskin pants I've had for a few months and not even tried on yet, though I do know they'll fit as I have the same pants in the same size, but in red. If I buy that Cordings olive linen suit it'll most likely make that light grey Next suit I've only had a year and worn just a few times redundant. I'm not going to buy it just yet as I'm not 100 percent certain I want it. Yes, I want it because I like it, but do I want another clothing item is more the question and the answer to that is a definite no!!

If you @wafter, or anyone else for that matter were to buy that Cordings linen suit would you buy the olive or the sand one? I like the sand one, but isn't it a bit 'The man from Del Monte'?

It's nice, bit I think I'd be worried all the time while wearing it about getting marks on it, whereas the olive one wouldn't show slight marks up like the sand one would. 🤔

I did think about the royal blue one, but I think it's a bit summer wedding(ish) or maybe looks a bit like a uniform suit, like something out of Butlins or Pontins maybe.

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Where do you plug that bright blue suit in, it's too bright 😎, it offends my eyes!
And that's coming from someone who prefers to wear railway Orange when out and about on the bike.

 

[Profpointy]

Looking at those laces, on saying the shoes aren't true Oxford shoes due to the not closed lace bits, it'll be because of the way they've laced the shoes why the lace bits won't close, not the design.

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Indeed! Was about to point that out but you've worked it out yourself. I dislike that style of lacing for Oxford style construction for the reason you state, and think it looks stupid. Nevertheless those are clearly a pair of plain Oxfords

As an aside the lace up bit joining together like that is what makes them Oxfords, not the more obvious toe cap. I have a formal toe cap shoe like these but they are not Oxfords for that reason

Thus, the above pair are neither Oxfords nor brogues, to paraphrase the line in Kingsman

Similarly you have Oxford Brogues like these which are thus Oxfords AND brogues

whilst these are brogues, but not Oxfords

 

[Accy cyclist]

Where do you plug that bright blue suit in, it's too bright 😎, it offends my eyes!
And that's coming from someone who prefers to wear railway Orange when out and about on the bike.

It just make me think Hi-de-Hi! or the greeter on the door, they used to employ at ASDA.

 

[Profpointy]

I really need a decent pair of formal shoes but tbh wouldn't know where to start..

You sounds like a man who knows his shoes - as a one-hit "formal" shoe, what would you recommend? I'm drawn to a pair of Ox blood Oxfords, but tbh know very little about styles, colours or brands to look at..

"formal" really requires black, ideally fairly plain: oxfords, bluchers or the not-oxford toecaps I posted above. These would be for funerals, black tie do's or simply smart for wearing with a business suit.

(Black) Semi brogues (ie oxfords toe cap with some brogue like decoration), whilst not stricly speaking ideal for funeral or black tie are still very smart shoes eg with a suit, or not quite suit tidy wear, so are more general purpose formal shoe.

For smart but not "Formal" with a capital F, then tan or oxblood brogues, semi brogues etc are all round good choice, for anything other than funeral / black-tie. My everyday wear are brown brogues, heavy duty style, (re-) soled with commando soles.

If I only had one pair of smart shoes, I'd have a pair of black country weight black brogues, and when worn through, put commando soles on. Whilst theoretically not really ideal for funerals or black tie, if smooth, rather than grained, leather they'd do, and still be pretty smart, and are also a good solid shoe to wear everyday whether with suit or mufty. Plain black oxfords are only really suitable as very formal smart shoes and look a bit funny otherwise.

My black crockett "country" brogues were my only smart shoes for years before I extended my collection. Even used to wear them (indoor) rock climbing before I got proper climbing shoes.

These:

Other thoughts:
as mentioned before I strongly recommend getting "Goodyear welted" shoes as these can be re-soled multiple times - the pair above are 30 year old and have been re-soled with heavy duty rubber commando soles three times (originally supplied with dainite rubber, and I have an otherwise identical brown pair with leather soles, which will get commado'd when the time comes). I guess that's 5 years' worth of daily wear over 30 year period. Related to this point, rubber soles last way longer than leather, and you don't end up on your arse in the rain on a smooth surface. Originally-leather shoes can be re-soled with rubber (if Goodyear welted). I favour commando soles for heavier shoes and dainite for smarter lighter weight shoes. Alternatively stick on rubber on top of leather is OK - cobbler will do a better job than diy.

Here are a pair of "dainite" rubber soles on some smart semi-brogue Oxfords; my best bargain Crocketts as they were £30 secondhand off ebay, rather than £500 in Jermyn Street. Recent re-sole was nearly a hundred mind!

I also think proper Northampton made shoes are higher, or at least more reliable quality than imports. Brand such as Loakes do such shoes for quite reasonable money; though not all Loakes are made in the UK, so do read the label.

I prefer full leather lining rather than canvas toe section. Even expensive Church's are often canvas lined, which is partly why I've never bought a pair.

Re. brands: I think Loake's Northampton models are amongst the best value and are very good quality for the money, especially their top-end models. I don't think Cheaney's, whilst nice enough, are really any better. Crockett & Jones are fantastic quality but brutally expensive now. I bought one pair new in a sale 30 years ago, and the rest 2nds or 2nd hand off ebay. Whilst they are objectively better than Loakes, not sure they're twice as better! Never owned Grensons but they look on a par with top end Loakes

One warning if buying off ebay: I've been caught out with a couple of pairs a good bit too small. Despite being pukka Loakes or Crockett's they were likely intended for export to the US and American sizing is a full size smaller than ours. Worth asking for lenght in mm if not stated in ad

 

[grldtnr]

I would disagree, a well maintained Pair of Oxfords, are go anywhere as wearing for formal or informal, with or without 'commando' soles.
I would say I'd prefer not to wear such chunky soles personally,
But I am happy to wander around in a boiler suit and a pr or hiking shoes on ,not boots, odd socks ,coz I know I have another pr like that at home, in fact I hardly ever bother to match socks.
In warmer weather I also go 'Commando', nice to have that cooling breeze, knotted muffler and flat cap of course.

 

[Profpointy]

d

I would disagree, a well maintained Pair of Oxfords, are go anywhere as wearing for formal or informal, with or without 'commando' soles.
I would say I'd prefer not to wear such chunky soles personally,
But I am happy to wander around in a boiler suit and a pr or hiking shoes on ,not boots, odd socks ,coz I know I have another pr like that at home, in fact I hardly ever bother to match socks.
In warmer weather I also go 'Commando', nice to have that cooling breeze, knotted muffler and flat cap of course.

The Dainite rubber soles are no more chunky than leather, and thus are fine for posh smart shoes, but I agree the chunky commando soles are less appropriate for, say, plain Oxfords or a black tie do and may be too stiff for the lighter type of shoe's construction.

 

[Accy cyclist]

I think I've buffed them up fairly well so far, but getting the lace bits to fully close is quite an achievement and I don't have a wide foot as such. Maybe I could pull the laces in a little tighter. Anyway, it's not the end of the world. I'm still happy with my blue suede leather shoes.

 

[Dag Hammar]

I think I've buffed them up fairly well so far, but getting the lace bits to fully close is quite an achievement and I don't have a wide foot as such. Maybe I could pull the laces in a little tighter. Anyway, it's not the end of the world. I'm still happy with my blue suede leather shoes.

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@Accy cyclist, those navy blue shoes look great. I have two pairs of navy blue shoes although mine are a much more casual style. I was disappointed when I polished one pair with navy polish and they darkened quite a bit so they are now not so blue as I would like them to be. Consequently I now use a colourless shoe cream on them.

 

[Accy cyclist]

@Accy cyclist, those navy blue shoes look great. I have two pairs of navy blue shoes although mine are a much more casual style. I was disappointed when I polished one pair with navy polish and they darkened quite a bit so they are now not so blue as I would like them to be. Consequently I now use a colourless shoe cream on them.

Thanks for the shoe compliment! Yes, I've polished shoes only to see them go darker. I think you can remedy it by taking the polish off with some stuff you can buy, or even use simple washing up liquid slightly watered down that works, though I've found that once polish gets into the leather and not just on the leather it's irreversible. I know that if I use mid tan or even light tan polish on the spectator shoes I bought from Lanx it'll change the colour of them from a very light tan to a mid tan and I don't want that as I have quite a few mid tan pairs of shoes, all because I've used mid tan polish when neutral would've been better.

 

[Accy cyclist]

Well you know what the man from Delmonte said.

The retro clothing shop's owner I work in, yesterday when asked which he preferred said the 'cream' one. Though, quote...You might not wear it as much as the darker one due to fear of getting marks on it. He's right, but like him I do slightly prefer the 'cream' one. 🤔

 

[stephec]

@Accy cyclist i reckon these are right up your street - https://www.barkershoes.com/product...d=120204759889370572&ad_id=120204759889400572

 

[Accy cyclist]

@Accy cyclist i reckon these are right up your street - https://www.barkershoes.com/product...d=120204759889370572&ad_id=120204759889400572

I've been saved the dilemma of should I buy as all sizes are sold out!! 🧐