“Notchy” SPD pedals

[bruce1530]

One of my pedals (Shimano M520 SPD) feels very “notchy” when it’s rotated by hand. The other one rotates smoothly.

They’re only a few months old, done about 1000 miles.

Haven’t taken it off to have a close look yet, just wondered whether this is a common problem? Do the bearings need greased, or is it time for a replacement pedal?

 

[mrandmrspoves]

M520's are normally very robust and don't normally need much maintaining.
It may be you got a dud one - but I would be surprised. Could just be a bit of grit in there. I would lie your bike on its side and drip some oil into that pedal and leave it overnight. If it doesn't improve - it may be worth stripping it down. The bearings are very small and it is a fiddly job.

 

[bruce1530]

It feels “notchy”, not gritty - almost like a ratchet (although not as extreme), or one of those volume controls you get on some hifi...

 

[13 rider]

If you take the pedal apart you will need a Shimano pedal tool can be bought on eBay for a few quid. My Shimano pedals not sure the number suffered the same symptoms and I stripped them and decrease them and they were only a bit better . They are bought second hand with the bike so in the end I replaced them .

 

[bruce1530]

aye - they’re 20 quid pedals, so it’s probably easiest just to replace rather than buy a tool that I’ll never use again.

 

[13 rider]

aye - they’re 20 quid pedals, so it’s probably easiest just to replace rather than buy a tool that I’ll never use again.

I should have thought that way . Bought the tool spent time stripped and rebuilding and still replaced them

 

[bruce1530]

Having said that’ I’ve just watched a youtube video on servicing them..... :-)

 

[Yellow Saddle]

If it feels notchy rather than gritty, the cones are too tight. It is easily fixed but you will need a 10mm socket with very thin walls. Take the end cap off to see what I mean. If it hasn't got an end cap, you'll have to take it apart from the crank side by undoing the obvious on that side.

These descriptions are subjective, so let't hope your notchy matches my notchy.

 

[bruce1530]

All sorted!

It was indeed the cones that were too tight. Yellow Saddle and I obviously use “notchy” the same way.

Much as I hate to bodge things, I thought “nothing to lose here - I’m planning to replace the pedal anyway - might as well try it”. I didn’t have the “proper” tool to grip the serrated nut, but improvised with a pair of water pump pliers...

So: Pedal off, grip the body in a vice. Give it a good wipe down, and at this point notice the engraving indicating that this particular bit had a reverse thread. Just as well I noticed that bit - it’s a ”right” pedal, so the crank thread is a regular one.

Gripped the serrated nut with the pliers, and unscrewed it (backwards).

Pulled out the bearing cartridge, and it was indeed notchy. Loosened the end nut by less than a quarter of a turn, and it was fine.

Apply liberal quantities of grease to the hole in the pedal, re-insert the cartridge, tighten up. The new grease forces the old out.

Wipe down, add a touch of copper grease to the thread, and back on the bike.

Job’s a good ‘un... (I hope!)

 

[Yellow Saddle]

All sorted!

It was indeed the cones that were too tight. Yellow Saddle and I obviously use “notchy” the same way.

Excellent result. Now go and put it on your CV.

Much as I hate to bodge things, I thought “nothing to lose here - I’m planning to replace the pedal anyway - might as well try it”. I didn’t have the “proper” tool to grip the serrated nut, but improvised with a pair of water pump pliers...

The ends justifies the means....but only in you don't reveal the dirty secrets.

 

[bruce1530]

However....

the “notchiness” came back after a couple of rides. Went through the same procedure, and it’s back again. I suspect I need a dab of thread lock on the end nut.

 

[Yellow Saddle]

However....

the “notchiness” came back after a couple of rides. Went through the same procedure, and it’s back again. I suspect I need a dab of thread lock on the end nut.

There are two nuts on the end. The one nut is the cone and the other the locknut. The two have to be tightened against each other. It requires a bit of a trick and a small screwdriver to keep the cone in place whilst tightening the locknut against it.

 

[I like Skol]

They should have gone back to the supplier. Shimano stuff has a 2yr warranty and I have had a pair of very low mileage M520s replaced after one side developed some play. Now you have bu66ered about with them the warranty is probably as shot as the pedals!

 

[bruce1530]

I know - unfortunately the supplier is no longer trading....

 

[3narf]

I have a couple of pairs of these; a few years ago they felt gritty and I considered replacing the bearings. However, I was too busy at the time and just continued to use them. I realised a while ago that I don't even think about them any more, they actually feel like new again.

A good example of well designed, zero-maintenance Shimano budget components (OP's experience notwithstanding )...