105 R7000

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raleighnut

Legendary Member
That's what I like about it!
Like I say it's very solid.

549373


10 spd Centaur
 

boydj

Legendary Member
Location
Paisley
If I want to tighten the cable on the front derailleur I just take off the cover on the top, and there is the larger Allen head, loosen and pull a little more cable through right?

I have it shifting now but it’s not as smooth as it was, you really need to give the shifter a hard nudge to shift.

No, you tighten the cable at the mech. There will be an adjustment screw where the cable enters the mech. Turn that clockwise to tighten - do it a half-turn at a time until the shifting is right.

If the adjustment screw can't be adjusted, then you need to re-attach the cable, after turning the adjustment screw most of the way in. Shift the gear to the smallest cog, loosen the cable clamp on the mech, pull the cable tight with pliers and hold it there while you tighten the clamp with the other hand.
 

Smokin Joe

Legendary Member
No, you tighten the cable at the mech. There will be an adjustment screw where the cable enters the mech. Turn that clockwise to tighten - do it a half-turn at a time until the shifting is right.
Except there is no adjusting screw on a front mech, so it either has to be done with the down tube adjuster if the bike has one, or as you state in the second part of your post by undoing the clamp bolt and pulling the cable through.
 

si_c

Guru
Location
Wirral
Except there is no adjusting screw on a front mech, so it either has to be done with the down tube adjuster if the bike has one, or as you state in the second part of your post by undoing the clamp bolt and pulling the cable through.
There is on the new Shimano low profile front derailleurs, you no longer need the inline adjuster as with previous models.
 
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Johnno260

Johnno260

Veteran
Location
East Sussex
There is on the new Shimano low profile front derailleurs, you no longer need the inline adjuster as with previous models.

I’m assume this is the screw under the cap?
 

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Johnno260

Johnno260

Veteran
Location
East Sussex
Nope. It's the little grub screw to the right of the cap in the first picture.

Fantastic thank you I will try this later.
 

Smokin Joe

Legendary Member
annoyingly you can’t get campag on a ribble build anymore. when i ordered the cgr sl i hoped to get 10 speed campag on it (compatible with the 10 speed centaur on my r872) but had to settle for 105 7000. i’ve also had issues with chain suck with it…
Ribble have gone right down the pan in the last couple of years. You used to be able to get everything and anything from them but the last time I looked there range had shrunk by a huge margin.
 
I’ve use all three at the moment (Sram, Campagnolo and Shimano) I would always choose Campag it has a lovely accurate, precision feel to it, it just works.

I have as well but down from mostly campag to one and half SRAM to one, I have to say Shimano entry level stuff is very good so justifies the use, campag chorus is nothing short of beautiful and SRAM just works aside from gxp bottom brackets.
 
I have to say mind the new R8000 front mech has been a proper pita you need to get that stabilising plate just right and chain rub in the cross chaining positions is more evident in mid compact setups as is noise in those gears.

Campag is much the same but having many more front mech trimming helps and as for di2 with the new R8000 still sounds like a bag of spanner’s to me.
 
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