2021 Brompton C-Line Explore

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wafter

I like steel bikes and I cannot lie..
Location
Oxford
As need not be picked over yet again, my commute's driving me insane so I've been looking at alternatives. The only viable option appears to be to get as close as I can to the city in the car then do the rest of the journey on a folding bike; and last Friday I got my hands on this:

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A Brompton has only really been on my radar in the past month and before this I knew very little about them. Thanks now to the knowledgable folk on the forum I've hopefully learned a enough to make a relatively informed decision :smile:

This example is a C-Line Explore black edition in black lacquer, made in December 2021. The C-Line is the mid-higher end of the steel lineup with "Explore" denoting six gears.

The black edition differs in that all the components and finishing kit are in black as opposed to silver; evidently a popular choice as Brompton have recently made this colour scheme standard on all C-lines. Likewise the black lacquer finish was also a special edition, but is now a standard colour - albeit at a premium over the solid powder-coats.

The bike was had for resonable if not stellar money, is presentable but not without its faults - some of which I've sorted during a hectic weekend-just-gone; some remain to be addressed. Below are some more pics of the bike as well as a bit of a meander through my thoughts to date... for what they're worth.

I hope this thread might be of interest to anyone else who might be B-curious :tongue:


The bar / stem combination is "medium" - the "short" being straight with no rise and the "high" potentially having a longer stem and / or a greater rise on the bars themselves.

Another relatively recent feature is the integrated controls - with the stubby brake levers, gear shifters and bell all amalgamated into a single unit each side, with provision for fine cable adjustment where needed. This is clean, tidy and it seems better ergonomically than the previous iteration where the shifters were mounted separately on top of the bars.

These assembles are a combination of alloy castings and injection molded plastic; feeling solid and decent quality like most of the rest of the bike.

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Finely textured soft rubber grips live up to their name. The LH gear shifter contols the two-speed, less-than-conventional derailleur with a handy display to remind you where you are. Operation is light, slick and positive.

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The right shifter operates the three-speed Sturmey-Archer "Brompton Wide Range" hub; again with numbers as an aide-memoire. The bell isn't enormously loud but has a nice tone and long sustain. The anvil can be reached easily enough with a finger, although isn't 100% reliable in use and feels a little cheap.

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Given the bike's folding nature cabling is a challenge, with plenty of rub-spots. I've added some electrical tape in various places to protect the finish; including on the stem:

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The stem folds at its base at a carefully-intentional-non-square angle; a plastic knob along its length snapping into the steel-sprung plastic latch on the RHS top of the fork.

The head tube has Brompton's plastic mount attached; which will take one of any number of accessories. These are standard on current models and I believe retro-compatable with older ones. Again this feels like good quality plastic (perhaps something glass-filled..?); the only thing I'm not keen on is the live hinge for the latch - although in practice this is probably perfectly fit for purpose.

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Brakes calipers are duel-pivot (again a feature of newer models for a a good few years). Braking is positive, predictable and perfectly adiquate; of not outright powerful. My only complaint is that there's no quick-release cam on the cable clamp to allow the wheel to be removed without depressurising the tyre or unclamping the cable.

Mudguards are of plastic / ally sandwich construction as slightly unfortunately illustrated by the unfinished leading edge..

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The front wheel is laced radially (i.e. with no crossed spokes and all inserted into the hub from the outside). The plastic hook on the LHS of the mudguard mount is what engages the rear triangle when the bike is folded to keep it all together. The hub is held on with two plain nuts,finished with hard rubber caps - these look nice but I found were a pain to get off..

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Sadly the front mudguard is cracked along its length (just visible to the right of the bracket) - not surprising considering that it will get smacked by the rear wheel as it folds if the steering's pointing dead forward. I've glued this (badly) but will probably have to replace it eventually.

The mudguard stays are evidently a bit off-centre too (perhaps as a result of the same event) and could do with tweaking over a bit further - it appears that one side has been rubbing the tyre in the past.

The mudflap is pretty insubstantial but looks like it gives good coverage - I guess it's only a matter of time before I find out.

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The main hinge near the front of the bike that allows the stem assy to fold back on the rest of the bike. All very substantial and locks together with zero play.

The clamp is retained by a bolt with a plastic thumb lever and while this does the job, IMO it lacks refinement as there is no spring to preload the clamp so that it automatically follows the bolt when it's backed out; while it can also spin freely around the bolt. Not a huge issue when breaking the bike down, but means it's often not in the right place when you want to re-construct the bike - making the process more fiddly and a risk of cosmetic damage if you're not paying attention.. I think there are superior aftermarket options for this; which will doubtless be investigated.

I'd applied more PVC tape at other rub spots, as well as some PU tubing cut along its length to protect the insides of the cable retainers.



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(ctd in next post)
 
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wafter

wafter

I like steel bikes and I cannot lie..
Location
Oxford
There's a lot going on at the diminutive seatpost tube. We have an integral quick-release clamp, which to its rear houses the release latch for the bike's separate articulated rear triangle.

This has a light, smooth action - pivoting inwards to release the top of the triangle and allow it to swing downwards about the rear of the bottom bracket. The triangle and frame are separated by a deep cylindrical rubber buffer / bush that serves to provide a limited amount of suspension.

The two wheels, in conjunction with a third at the rear of the mudguard, are what keep the rest of the bike off the ground when folded. These are small and a bit sloppy on thier bushes - the RH one in particular which looks like it's had too much load on it at some point and is wobbly as fook. I occasionally get heel-strike on the RH one; partially because of my gammy gait and partially because the wheel's flopping about so much..

Larger, better wheels are available; however I might stick a rack on it yet, which would change things.. so I'm going to hold fire on any replacements currently. I'm unconvinced by the totally-visually-incongruous Evans sticker, however I usually leave them in place and would be fearful of damaging the paint in trying to remove it. Maybe I'll see how stubborn it is when warmed up a bit.

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The seatpost is steel but has a finish very much like gloss anodising - I suspect some sort of DLC coating in the name of dimensional stability and wear resistance. It runs within a plastic sleeve in the frame; the bike also coming with another sleeve that you can cut to length to ensure that during retraction the seat stops at your preferred height. Fortuitously the saddle height is perfect for me with the seatpost extended all the way.

The upper leading edge of the suspension bush on this example has some grazing; probably as a result of the folded bike being wheeled on just the two front wheels and causing the bush to drag on the ground. Irritating but not the end of the world and I'm too tight to replace it until it's knackered.. When I get the opportunity I'll probably tidy up the frilly edge with a bit of abrasive paper.

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The saddle is the standard-fit Fizik Aliante. It's my first experience of the brand which, generally because I'm not keen on their marketing, I've never paid too much attention to. The saddle looks reasonable well made if perhaps a little cheap (which I believe they're not!).

I was getting some rubbing while out over the weekend so have now replaced it with a known-arse-compatable Brand X item.. however it transpires that the discomfort is due to the saddle is gradually tipping back under my weight as the clamp is insufficient to hold it in place (something else to be investigated) so maybe I didn't give the Fizik a fair crack of the whip, and might revisit it once the clamp issue's sorted.

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Not that I have any pics but the clamp assy is pretty interesting; with multiple stacked discs / retainers that make it look a bit like a multi-plate clutch. If I can't find an alternative way of keeping the saddle in place I might just bang a load of threadlock on these matic surfaces..


Moving back down to the bottom of the bike, the cable run over the bottom bracket is pretty tight with a couple of rub spots. Again, I've protected the retainer with PVC tube while the seat tube is the only place I can see on the whole bike where there's any protection against cable rub from the factory; courtesy of of some decent-looking transparent film. Fap knows why they've not applied this elsewhere; a relatively cheap and simple solution to something that has the potential to rapidly make the bike look tatty.

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IMO the bottom bracket area is a work of art and really showcases the lovely fillet brazing beneath the smokey lacquer. I absolutely love this finish and feel lucky that I was able to find this one :smile:

Towards the front of the BB assy is a no-nonsense square-taper BB (not sure if it's propriatory or to a common standard), while at the rear we have the bushed hinges that allow the rear triangle to pivot during folding.

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When the bike is folded the rear tyre is pushed into hard contact with the front of the BB and brace above it. I hear the paint in this area is often worn through on higher-mileage models (unsurprising if the tyres are covered in grit :sad: ) and it seems like an enormous oversight that there's not some frame protection here as standard.

My PVC tape seems to be holding up well on the brace but quickly failed on the BB. As a stop-gap it's been replaced with gaffer tape which appears to be holding, but is hardly an aesthetically-ideal solution..

Between the crank and seat tube is the cable retainer; protected by PU tube; which IMO is a pretty tidy solution even if could have done with being slightly larger on the ID.

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The folding LH pedal (the only one that does as the RH one sits inside the folded bike's external form factor). This is nicely executed in itself; however isn't particularly intuitive to use and if not operated correctly / in the correct location risks damage to surrounding bits - as the crank arm attests to :sad:

I love the subtle little folding bike logos on many of the components.

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There's a lot going on at the back. The hub gear is operated by the chain running into the centre of the axle; its position dictating which gear the hub is in - with fully in being 3rd (highest) and fully out against the hub's internal spring tension being 1st. When I viewed the bike this chain was missing; meaning the bike was running in 3rd all the time.. the chain was found but its lockring was lost... fortunately Warlands sorted me out this afternoon with a used one for three quid and now all is good (if not the case in the picture below!).

Moving between the two external 13 and 16T sprockets is courtesy of the little inverted selector on the underside rear of the chainstay, which acts opon a small, axially-floating roller to pull the chain from one side to the other. The sprung tensioner at the bottom has a similar arrangement to allow its wheel to follow that on the selector. Like much of the chain management components the sprockets are plastic and run on a steel bush.. I wonder if anyone makes a roller-bearing upgrade..?

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While it looks a bit messy all of this assy was cleaned at the weekend - the flakes are just deposits from the unsurprisingly waxed chain..

Unfortunately the drivetrain doesn't feel particularly refined as it makes quite a lot of noise in all gears but 2nd / 13T. I hear hubs can be noisey but I think the bits directly interfacing with the chain could be better.. something else to investigate.


From the rear we get a better view of the BWR hub and sprockets. Bizarrely the rear mudguard appears to be the only part of the bike fitted with hexagon-head bolts, as opposed to the stainless socket button cap used everywhere else where possible. I very much like these fixings and tend to sprinkle them all over my bikes by default; so will be sourcing some of an appropriate size for this application.

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On the other side of the rear triangle we have the Brompton-branded Lezyne pump; which comes standard with some models (not 100% sure which but it's on the Brompton website if anyone's bothered). They also offer a Zefal item; which I believe makes use of the currently-redundent retainer at the front of the triangle (far LHS in pic).


This item seems pretty well made; being of ally and plastic construction. It works well and has a reversible hose to suit both Presta and Schrader valves, and also has an integral bleed valve - which is a nice touch. The previous owner clearly wasn't mechanically minded, so the pump came unfitted. Getting it on wasn't straightforward as the clamp screws are too short - meaning the clamps have to be squeezed together hard to get the threads to start..

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While cleaning I found an amount of lightish cosmetic damage on the rear triangle; I guess par for the course given the nature of the bike..
 
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wafter

wafter

I like steel bikes and I cannot lie..
Location
Oxford
Sadly the outside of the rear mudguard has had a bit of a pasting too - thanks to the minimal clearance with the ground when the bike is folded.. something else that need addressing in time.

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Conveniently it came with a Brompton front bag; something I'd probably not have considered; however it's really nicely executed and holds a lot - it'll swallow my laptop bag whole and despite my misgivings appears to have no detrimental effect on handling..

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That's pretty much as the bike stands; I've so far covered maybe 30 generally favourable miles on it, but that's a story for another day :tongue:
 
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Gunk

Guru
Location
Oxford
IMO it lacks refinement as there is no spring to preload the clamp so that it automatically follows the bolt when it's backed out; while it can also spin freely around the bolt. Not a huge issue when breaking the bike down, but means it's often not in the right place when you want to re-construct the bike - making the process more fiddly and a risk of cosmetic damage if you're not paying attention..

solved for under £6

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20417232...HQw_5aGRFG&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

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OP
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wafter

wafter

I like steel bikes and I cannot lie..
Location
Oxford
That’s lovely, you did well. Worth replacing the rollers with some Ezywheels

https://brilliantbikes.co.uk/brompton-rollers/564-brompton-eazy-wheel-qezwrolf-6.html

Thanks - it's all been a bit of a rollercoaster but I think I'm winning and can completely see how I could become very attached to it once all the niggles are sorted.

Those wheels seem like the obvious solution; although I'm not sure if I want to go the rack route yet - hence holding fire for the time being. I like the idea of the rack but it's not cheap and I'm not sure how much additional functionality it would bring beyond the better stability when folded / prevention of damage to the guard. I suspect I'll probably go this route in time, but it's a lot to swallow on top of the purchase price of the bike!



Cheers - was thinking of something similar although wasn't clever enough to factor in a way to stop them rotating too - think I'm definitely sold on some of those!

I see someone apparently does some nice brass knobs for the clamps which I think would go very well on the bike.. can see how people end up spending a fortune tarting these bikes up :tongue:
 
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EltonFrog

Legendary Member
Looks great, thanks for the detailed write up. I hope it solves, at least partly, your commuting challenges. I also hope you enjoy riding it recreationally and have some fun with it.
 

EltonFrog

Legendary Member
I'd go for the ones sold by the guy who designed them originally. Cheaper too.

https://ezclamp.co.uk/buy/

I’ve got those, they’re really good.
 

T4tomo

Legendary Member
Those wheels seem like the obvious solution; although I'm not sure if I want to go the rack route yet - hence holding fire for the time being. I like the idea of the rack but it's not cheap and I'm not sure how much additional functionality it would bring beyond the better stability when folded / prevention of damage to the guard. I suspect I'll probably go this route in time, but it's a lot to swallow on top of the purchase price of the bike!

The rack adds weight, the front block is much better suited to carrying luggage and the B handles better with front loaded weight than rear loaded. The existing wheels and mudguard roller provided plenty of stability and protection.

I do like that laquer finish, very smart.
 

Gunk

Guru
Location
Oxford
Those wheels seem like the obvious solution; although I'm not sure if I want to go the rack route yet - hence holding fire for the time being. I like the idea of the rack but it's not cheap and I'm not sure how much additional functionality it would bring beyond the better stability when folded / prevention of damage to the guard. I suspect I'll probably go this route in time, but it's a lot to swallow on top of the purchase price of the bike!

The Ezywheels lift the bike slightly when folded, my rear mudguard was also scratched to buggery, since replacing the rollers with the larger Eazywheels, no issues, plenty of clearance.

Agree with @T4tomo about the rear rack, I removed mine on my Mk2. You already have the basket bag which IMO is the best solution.
 
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