Brandane
Legendary Member
- Location
- Costa Clyde
Sometimes it all comes together; sometimes it doesn't. This was one of those unfortunate trips which was spoiled somewhat by the weather.
I took the Virgin train from Glasgow to Euston, and had no problems getting the bike on board (it was pre-booked, but there are horror stories of that not having much relevance). Cycled from Euston to Victoria station, via Jerk City in Soho for lunch. Their spicy beef patties were a disappointment, being severely lacking in the spice department.
Passing Buckingham Palace, it appeared that Our Lizzie had put on some sort of barbeque, or garden party as the toffs call them, but as I had just eaten I didn't bother calling in
.........
The journey from Victoria to Portsmouth wasn't quite as planned. Something to do with a broken down train meant our "service" stopped at Havant. Just as well I had the bike, and plenty of spare time, and had met a couple of cyclists heading for Portsmouth, one of whom had a Garmin. So off we went for the 8 miles or so cycle to the ferry terminal, and boarded the overnight sailing with Brittany Ferries to St Malo..
On arrival in the morning at St Malo, there was a strong wind from the north, and chilly with it. My original plan had been to head round the Cotentin peninsula via Coutances, Cherbourg, Barfleur, and then along the coast to Caen for the return ferry. I got as far as the Mont St Michel, and then turned to head north. After about a mile of battling the strong headwind on a bike loaded with 4 panniers and a tent, I realised it wasn't going to happen! A quick look at the map and I decided to head south east towards Fougeres. The route was along a D road which was perfectly surfaced and with only light traffic. It was still chilly when I reached Fougeres so decided against camping (as I did for the rest of the trip) and found a Hotel Formule 1. Anybody who has used these will know - they are all identikit builds, with small booths for showers and toilets. Functional is probably the best word, and only slightly better than camping! At least they keep the rain off you and your gear; and they let you take your bike in the room (try that in the UK). In its favour, there was a tremendous eat-as-much-as-you-like Chinese buffet 2 doors away. It was the best meal of the trip, and a bargain in comparison to some of the others......
Next day the weather had got worse. Still a strong wind from the north, but now accompanied by drizzle. The drizzle was later broken up - by heavy downpours. Suffice to say this was NOT a good day. I got as far as Laval, and as the forecast was for not much improvement in the weather, I decided to take a train north to Caen. On arrival in Caen it was still cold, wet and windy. I headed for a hotel I have previously used, the Hotel Du Havre near the city centre. Their prices have shot up since my last visit, and at 60 euros for B&B, I only stayed the one night.
The following morning (Saturday) was much better weatherwise but still really chilly! This is the end of May, in northern France
, where is the warmth? Went off to find cheaper digs and ended up in a Hotel Ibis-Budget (used to be called Etap) near the Caen peripherique in one of those anonymous retail/industrial zones. Still, it was cheap, and they let me check in and dump my panniers at 10am so that I could have a day cycling luggage free. Luxury! I went to Arromanches, then east along the coast to Ouistreham and south along the perfectly surfaced cycle path back to Caen.
Sunday was quite pleasant weatherwise, and being once more "sans baggage" I did my longest day in the saddle of this trip, 85 miles. Through Caen and east towards Lisieux before taking a 25 mile circular route around the signposted (of a fashion) Route du Cidre.
Perhaps it was because it was a Sunday, but most of the cider farms were closed 
. My hopes of spending a relaxing day sampling French cider were not to be! The nearest I got was a bottle of local produce along with my lunch. 25 euros for a bowl of tripe and a bottle of cider 
; France gets more and more expensive with every visit. I found it hard to get lunch or dinner for under 25 euros, and that was sticking to one course and a drink.
Another un-manned cider farm......
On getting back to my hotel, I found that every shop and restaurant in that part of town was closed on a Sunday night. I didn't have the energy to head back into town, so stupidly went to bed without any dinner, after an 85 mile cycle.
Not surprisingly, I felt like a washed out rag on Monday morning! First stop was the nearby Carrefour supermarket where I bought a load of carbs for breakfast, and chocolate for sugar. I still didn't feel great, so had an easy day. Nice flat route to Cabourg where I had lunch, then a wander back to Ouistreham for the overnight ferry back to Portsmouth.
Tuesday was ... wet! Took the train up to London then cycled to Brixton. Back through the craziness that is IMHO, London, and onto the 1430 train north to Glasgow. TBH; not one of my more enjoyable trips to the continent and could be my last for some time. Maybe it's time to change that avatar!
I took the Virgin train from Glasgow to Euston, and had no problems getting the bike on board (it was pre-booked, but there are horror stories of that not having much relevance). Cycled from Euston to Victoria station, via Jerk City in Soho for lunch. Their spicy beef patties were a disappointment, being severely lacking in the spice department.
Passing Buckingham Palace, it appeared that Our Lizzie had put on some sort of barbeque, or garden party as the toffs call them, but as I had just eaten I didn't bother calling in
.........
The journey from Victoria to Portsmouth wasn't quite as planned. Something to do with a broken down train meant our "service" stopped at Havant. Just as well I had the bike, and plenty of spare time, and had met a couple of cyclists heading for Portsmouth, one of whom had a Garmin. So off we went for the 8 miles or so cycle to the ferry terminal, and boarded the overnight sailing with Brittany Ferries to St Malo..
On arrival in the morning at St Malo, there was a strong wind from the north, and chilly with it. My original plan had been to head round the Cotentin peninsula via Coutances, Cherbourg, Barfleur, and then along the coast to Caen for the return ferry. I got as far as the Mont St Michel, and then turned to head north. After about a mile of battling the strong headwind on a bike loaded with 4 panniers and a tent, I realised it wasn't going to happen! A quick look at the map and I decided to head south east towards Fougeres. The route was along a D road which was perfectly surfaced and with only light traffic. It was still chilly when I reached Fougeres so decided against camping (as I did for the rest of the trip) and found a Hotel Formule 1. Anybody who has used these will know - they are all identikit builds, with small booths for showers and toilets. Functional is probably the best word, and only slightly better than camping! At least they keep the rain off you and your gear; and they let you take your bike in the room (try that in the UK). In its favour, there was a tremendous eat-as-much-as-you-like Chinese buffet 2 doors away. It was the best meal of the trip, and a bargain in comparison to some of the others......
Next day the weather had got worse. Still a strong wind from the north, but now accompanied by drizzle. The drizzle was later broken up - by heavy downpours. Suffice to say this was NOT a good day. I got as far as Laval, and as the forecast was for not much improvement in the weather, I decided to take a train north to Caen. On arrival in Caen it was still cold, wet and windy. I headed for a hotel I have previously used, the Hotel Du Havre near the city centre. Their prices have shot up since my last visit, and at 60 euros for B&B, I only stayed the one night.
The following morning (Saturday) was much better weatherwise but still really chilly! This is the end of May, in northern France
, where is the warmth? Went off to find cheaper digs and ended up in a Hotel Ibis-Budget (used to be called Etap) near the Caen peripherique in one of those anonymous retail/industrial zones. Still, it was cheap, and they let me check in and dump my panniers at 10am so that I could have a day cycling luggage free. Luxury! I went to Arromanches, then east along the coast to Ouistreham and south along the perfectly surfaced cycle path back to Caen.Sunday was quite pleasant weatherwise, and being once more "sans baggage" I did my longest day in the saddle of this trip, 85 miles. Through Caen and east towards Lisieux before taking a 25 mile circular route around the signposted (of a fashion) Route du Cidre.
. My hopes of spending a relaxing day sampling French cider were not to be! The nearest I got was a bottle of local produce along with my lunch. 25 euros for a bowl of tripe and a bottle of cider ; France gets more and more expensive with every visit. I found it hard to get lunch or dinner for under 25 euros, and that was sticking to one course and a drink.Another un-manned cider farm......
On getting back to my hotel, I found that every shop and restaurant in that part of town was closed on a Sunday night. I didn't have the energy to head back into town, so stupidly went to bed without any dinner, after an 85 mile cycle.
Not surprisingly, I felt like a washed out rag on Monday morning! First stop was the nearby Carrefour supermarket where I bought a load of carbs for breakfast, and chocolate for sugar. I still didn't feel great, so had an easy day. Nice flat route to Cabourg where I had lunch, then a wander back to Ouistreham for the overnight ferry back to Portsmouth.
Tuesday was ... wet! Took the train up to London then cycled to Brixton. Back through the craziness that is IMHO, London, and onto the 1430 train north to Glasgow. TBH; not one of my more enjoyable trips to the continent and could be my last for some time. Maybe it's time to change that avatar!
