paul fellows
Active Member
- Location
- Middlesbrough UK
Here is an idea you might find useful.
Instead of having the chain zig zag over idler pulleys, to control it, have it pass through a long chain tensioner.
Take a length of PVC tube, about 8 to 12 inches shorter than the length that the chain needs to be. Soften and thin down the back end of it, so that it dose not interfere with the back wheel when in low gear. Put 4 idler pulleys / sprockets on it, 2 front and 2 at the back. Fit the chain to the bike, passing it both ways through the tube. The tube floats on the chain protecting it and you, and is not in any other way connected to the frame. A long strait chain that dose not flop about.
Instead of having the chain zig zag over idler pulleys, to control it, have it pass through a long chain tensioner.
Take a length of PVC tube, about 8 to 12 inches shorter than the length that the chain needs to be. Soften and thin down the back end of it, so that it dose not interfere with the back wheel when in low gear. Put 4 idler pulleys / sprockets on it, 2 front and 2 at the back. Fit the chain to the bike, passing it both ways through the tube. The tube floats on the chain protecting it and you, and is not in any other way connected to the frame. A long strait chain that dose not flop about.

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oes your design permit one sprocket to engage with the driven section of the chain at the same time as the return side of the train,if not I fail to see how it can float, any disparity in friction on the rollers/sprockets will move the entire assembly into the chainring or rear cluster if it is not fixed at some point to the frame, ghost rings do this with far more simplicity although not used on trikes