A (short) week in Wolverley

[IaninSheffield]

Day 1 (12th July)

It's been trickier to get away recently, Pandemic notwithstanding. The house needs a little building repair work done and the first slot the roofer had was around the end of June/ beginning of July. That clipped my wings somewhat and meant I daren't arrange any time away. A couple of weeks ago the builder got back in touch to say the recent wet spell had held up his other jobs and it would now be the end of July before he got to me. He did warn me this could happen so I've no gripes, other than I missed the chance to go away. Still, at least I managed a week before the school holidays begin and the hordes of folks who might, in normal times have gone abroad, descend on the campsites. It's perhaps a sign of the demand for sites that I struggled to find a vacant pitch at the coastal Camping and Caravanning Club sites I first considered, and weekends seemed to be unavailable anywhere. And that's how I ended up with a midweek booking at Wolverley, just outside Kidderminster.

At just over a hundred miles, Wolverley's not too far from home, so I had plenty of time to pack the van, go for a run, take a shower, then grab some lunch before setting off just after midday. It was a few miles down the motorway when I remembered that I hadn't loaded the cool stuff into the fridge. Shame about the couscous salad I'd prepared for my evening meal, but I could pick something up when I get there, together with some milk and spread in lieu of those which were also in the fridge at home!

The traffic was flowing freely and with no navigational errors I arrived on site, was checked in, hookup connected and fresh water filled up before 3pm. So much quicker than pitching a tent and sorting 'under canvas' sleeping arrangements. I bought the ‘tin tent’ - a micro camper a young chap had self-converted - last year, but circumstances have not allowed me to use it as much as I would have liked. Hopefully that should change for the better in the near future.

St Mary's, Kidderminster, alongside the Staffs & Worcs Canal​

Having checked on Google Maps that the Sainsbury's alongside the canal in Kidderminster was still there - I remember calling there whilst on a narrowboat holiday many years ago - I decided to walk there to stock up. Although I'm pretty sure it was more than the mile and half Google had said it would be, it didn't matter; I was enjoying being back alongside a canal. In fact I passed the supermarket and walked up into town for a mosey around. There's clearly an industrial past to Kidderminster, but the town centre, though nondescript, was far from unwelcoming. I walked up to the station to check on train times for a RailRide I might do later in the week, and with the Severn Valley Preserved Railway station alongside the mainline station, I popped in to see whether there were any trips I might fancy. No trains to see today, but there are some excursions later in the week. Unfortunately, all the trips seemed to be packaged up into return journeys visiting highpoints on the line and no tickets available to travel from one station to another as one might do on the mainline. Shame.

I made my supermarket stop on the way back and was surprised how quiet it was, given that it was now back from work time. But the quietness - and reduced number of potential Covid spreaders - suited me perfectly. A return journey along the towpath brought me back to site at just the right time and with an appetite for my evening meal. There's a canal side pub just off site and I wondered whether I might be brave (foolhardy?) enough to pop in for a meal and a beer one evening; they appear to have plenty of outdoor seating. I haven't had a a draught beer from a pub in over eighteen months now, but with case numbers on the rise once more, is now the right time? I'll ponder on't.

 

[IaninSheffield]

Day 2 (13th July) - 36 miles

In the hours before sleep last night, it struck me how quiet a site this is. Perhaps it's because it's midweek, or perhaps it's the location of the site, but whatever the reason, I like it! Although not continuous, last night's sleep was restful; there's something delicious about not needing to look at the time to see how long before the alarm goes off - not that I set one whilst away on trips like this.

I finally stirred from my sleeping bag around 8:30, a long lie in for me. As I enjoyed my porridge, a slight drizzle caught my attention, not that it was heavy enough to patter on the roof. A quick check of the weather forecast confirmed it was unlikely to amount to much and would be done by the time I intended to turn a pedal. I have three routes planned and loaded into Garmin, each being around 35 miles. With an improving forecast over the next couple of days, I decided today would be the route with the shortest distance and the one with the least climbing.

In no particular rush, after breakfast I read for a while. I'm gradually working my way through 'When the lights went out', by Andy Beckett, a look back at the politics of the 70s, a turbulent time in British life and also the decade which saw me mature from child to adult. As a teenager I had neither the understanding of, nor the interest in the politics which affected my life then and the ramifications of which reverberate even now, almost fifty years later. But now I find it fascinating to look back through the eyes and words of a journalist, on how the nation's fortunes were made and lost by the ideologies and actions of those in power.

St John the Baptist, Wolverley​

By lunchtime, and with the sun starting to peek intermittently through the clouds, it was time for the off. After a quick look at St John the Baptist church which sits atop the little hill and overlooks the site, I turned and headed towards Stourport which would be my first 'port' of call. I'd been to the town many years ago on one of our narrowboat holidays and remembered it's historical significance as the place where international cargoes shipped up the Severn could access the inland waterways system and canal network. I dropped into town from Burlish Top, a wonderful heathland area criss-crossed by footpaths and an asphalted cyclepath.

The basin which links the Staffs & Worcs canal with the river is impressively extensive and was much busier today than when I'd last passed through. Back around the turn of the Millennium, the buildings around the basin looked jaded and in some cases had fallen into disrepair. The regeneration since then is exemplified by 'The Tontine', once a grand hotel and commercial focus for the Canal Company, but in the early 2000s, unused, dilapidated and unloved. Now restored to its former grandeur as high quality apartments, its residents enjoy fine views overlooking the Severn.

The Tontine, Stourport

Locking down to the Severn from the Basin​

After being impressed with all that had unfolded in the basin, normality was restored as my route took me back into the countryside through the less salubrious nether regions of Stourport. The subsequent miles to Droitwich Spa were along the quiet, peaceful lanes I so enjoy, some tree-lined, others with hedgerows hiding a variety of pasture and arable fields. To be so close to the West Midlands conurbation, yet be completely unaware of its presence was both a surprise and a pleasure.

Rather ostentatious pond ornament​

Having parallel cyclepaths, the short sections of dual carriageway which brought me into Droitwich posed little threat. I know Droitwich only by its name and nothing else, but it proved to be another unanticipated gem. It wears its varied history boldly in the architecture which has survived redevelopment and from what would appear to have been an industrial past, a rather genteel town has now emerged … at least if the presence of a Waitrose in the town centre is any indicator. The light industries which have replaced the long gone salt extraction - the spa was and is one of the few to yield salt water - appear to be pushed to the periphery.

Salt workers sculpture, Droitwich Spa

St Andrew's St., Droitwich​

I let Waitrose furbish me with lunch which I took in Vines Park which runs alongside the Droitwich Canal, another successful restoration now achieved.

Vines Park, Droitwich​

I took the dark, gloomy clouds which had begun to pass overhead as the nudge to be on my way and picked up NCN route 46 which guided me swiftly out of town and back into the countryside. Once again I was on lanes where cars were a blissful rarity, fortunate really, given how the lanes wiggled back and forth and high hedges obstructed forward views. A few miles short of Kidderminster, a physical obstruction presented itself in the form of a 'Road closed' sign, but experience suggests that it's usually traffic more substantial than a mere cyclist to which the road is actually closed. It was more than a few miles before I finally reached the engineering works attending to an arched bridge under the railway. With only a few metres to go before a junction, it initially looked like I might have to backtrack several miles in search of an alternative, but I spotted I could just about squeeze between the concrete barrier blocks. I was through to the other side before I came across the engineers working on the site, but despite being almost through to the other side, I still asked permission to pass through. A little courtesy often goes (or in this case, obviates the need for) a long way.

Hurcott Pool and Wood​

With no more than a couple of miles remaining the route dipped down into a valley where I came across Hurcott Pool and Woods. I later learned the lake was once a mill pool for the papermaking industry in the village. That's now long gone and the village is now private, protected behind large steel gates. Nothing to see there then.

Back on site, my day exploring the area by road rather than by canal like I did all those years ago, had cost me no more than 36 miles. Once again, as if it were needed, I was reminded just how enjoyable I find it exploring lanes I've never taken before.

 

[IaninSheffield]

Day 3 (14th July) - 35 miles

Sun streaming through the skylight from an early hour confirmed that today was likely to be offering the good weather that earlier forecasts had predicted. And so it proved to be when I finally deigned to emerge from my sleeping bag and draw back the curtains.

With two planned routes remaining I decided today would be the RailRide to Malvern, leaving the lumpy final ride for tomorrow. With a reasonably regular service from Kidderminster, a short ride away, breakfast could be taken at a leisurely pace, so I did. After completing my pre-ride routine, such as it is, I was off the site and immediately onto the canal towpath all the way into town.

Roland Hill statue in front of Kidderminster Town Hall​

I hadn't appreciated that Kidderminster's best known(?) son was Roland Hill, he who gave us the Penny Post and the beginnings of an affordable postal system in the UK.

On reaching the station I called at the ticket office rather than use the machine - the other day when I was there and checked ticket prices, I couldn't find the menu item for applying a Railcard discount. As I requested a single to Great Malvern, the member of staff asked if I would prefer a return ticket, given that it was only 5p dearer. Although we exchanged a bit of good humoured banter, and I took the return, I couldn't help thinking this was yet another example of the weird and wonderful rail ticket pricing structure in the UK. A coherent system once more appears to be conspicuous by its absence. At least the train was punctual and delivered me to Worcester in plenty of time to make my connection to Malvern.

My ride to Malvern (via Worcester)​

Before setting off from Malvern station to begin my ride home, I struggled up the hill to enjoy a brief wander around town. I've passed through a couple times but never tarried, so I figured I could spare a few minutes having an explore. Perched on a steep hillside, Malvern is another spa town, famed for its waters. It's many miles from the sea, but similarly to towns like Buxton, its architecture and amenities afford it that Victorian resort sensibility.

Abbey Gatehouse, Malvern

Buzzards, sculpture, Rose Bank Gardens, Malvern​

Leaving the town to the north and before picking up the back lanes, it seems that Malvern has been expanding somewhat with new build developments. It's easy to see why people might be attracted to live in or near to such an apparently pleasant, well-connected town, with the 'great outdoors' in the form of the Malvern Hills on your doorstep. Or had I picked up my rose-tinted specs rather than my sunglasses when I left this morning?

I was soon village hopping, passing through or nearby places gifted amusingly esoteric, or perhaps more likely, historically relevant names. Isn't' Alfrick Pound' a Dickensian character? Or in World of Warcraft? After further pottering around the back lanes, I dropped onto the much more significant A44 for a thankfully short stretch, but it was no busier than some of the B roads I'd been travelling. Just off the A44 at Knightwick, I snapped this church, as is my wont, but it was only as I approached closer that it became clear it was now residential. Not a bad place to call home if you have the shekels.

I was pondering on such matters as I cycled along envying some of the amazing properties out here in the sticks. One particularly attractive cottage, miles from anywhere and up for sale, really caught my eye. But then I thought, even if it was within my budget, would I want to live so far from the amenities upon which I currently, and doubtless increasingly will come to rely - regular bus service, proximity to the rail network (and motorways), walking or cycling distance to various shops, the library, doctors, dentists and opticians. Would I be prepared to trade all that for seclusion, peace and wonderful surroundings? The things you think of when you’re out pootling.

The next section became rather lumpy as I flirted with a range of hills, the name of which I've not been able to find; I'm pretty sure I'd gone beyond the extent of the Malverns. Passing through Astley, I vainly searched for an anecdote involving 'Rick Rolling', but before inspiration found me, I was distracted by this monument as I dropped down a hill. So intrigued was I that even having overshot it, I came back for a closer look. It's amazing what unexpected instances present themselves when you're out on a bike ride.

Baldwin, a local son​

A short while later and I was back once more in Stourport and took a short breather, enjoying an ice cream whilst looking out over the Severn

Then it was merely a matter of retracing the outbound route I'd taken yesterday, although diverting briefly into Kidderminster to pick up some comestibles for later.

Back on site, despite several departures and new arrivals, the peaceful ambience persists and I hardly hear a thing. Maybe it's the absence of families? Maybe my age-related hearing loss is getting worse? But whatever the case, I'll be gone before the weekend and gladly unable to verify my hypothesis.

 

[IaninSheffield]

Day 4 (15th July) - 28 miles

Not a particularly long ride today, but one packed with pleasure.

It began rather unpromisingly, the sky confounding earlier forecasts in the week which had today down as sunny. As I waited for the kettle to boil I checked the forecast - the BBC showed cloudy all day, the Met Office, sunny spells in the afternoon. I'm surprised how different forecasts from different providers so often fail to agree. Surely they're working from much the same meteorological data? I chose to go with the Met Office and relaxed into a book for most of the morning. After a quick bite of lunch I headed out on a shorter version of the final of three routes I'd planned.

The old village, Wolverley

Typical of many of the lanes​

The first half dozen or so miles were along winding back lanes which had few flat metres to offer, but were much the better for it. Often tree-lined, sometimes deeply cut into the sandstone bedrock, there was never a dull moment. I was surprised how many 'desirable' properties were out here along lanes where access for a Waitrose delivery van looked to be challenging to say the least.

Phone box converted to house a defibrillator​

Another occurrence that had me pondering for a while was this phone box converted into a home for a defibrillator. I've seen a few of these out and about; what a great upcycling idea. But one has to wonder what the potential demand might be in such rural location with low population density. Whilst I applaud more defibrillators being installed in public places such as libraries, shopping malls and town centres where quick access for a casualty who might need one is likely, I'm struggling to see how an individual in a rural location could get such quick access to a phone box defib. Quicker than a paramedic can get there possibly?

Entrance to Severn Valley Country Park​

Having climbed for quite a while to reach the ridge, the next section inevitably dropped me back down again, this time into the Severn Valley, where I entered the Severn Valley Country Park. There's a visitor centre with a cafe in the park, but just as I was about to be seduced by potential coffee and cake, I heard a toot in the valley below. I knew the Severn Valley Railway ran through the valley, so with the chance of seeing a steam train, I hurried down, crossed the bridge and followed the path to Country Park Halt, a tiny station from where I hoped to spot the producer of the toot. An elderly couple were seated on the platform and appeared to have the same idea as me, so I asked them if a train was due. This began a conversation about how wonderful they thought Yorkshire was, which naturally distracted me from the job in hand. When the train came chuffing round the corner, I had to run back to my bike to grab my phone for a piccie, but alas was too late to capture it.

Mercian Cycleway route marker​

After wishing each other well, the couple and I parted company and I headed off on the path which runs between the railway and the river. It's an incredibly pretty section of NCN 45, the 'Mercian Way', which runs from Chester to Salisbury. On my way to the next station at Hampton Loade I heard another toot and decided to wait for the train at a point where the track and path ran adjacent. A rewarding outcome.

34027, Taw Valley​

As I reached the station my route took me off further into the hills and though I was keen to explore more lanes, I felt I'd scooted through the Country Park a little too swiftly, and I was also interested to see a little more of the Mercian Way. So I decided to retrace my tracks back to the visitor centre and pick up NCN45 towards Bewdley, where I originally planned to visit anyway.

Bridge from the Country Park across the Severn​

Although the visitor centre was closed, a small refreshments kiosk alongside it was not, so I relieved them of coffee and carrot cake, a bargain at £3.50. A helping of view out across the Severn Valley came as a free bonus. Having climbed out the valley, of course my new found route then dropped me back in it at Arley, but what a fantastic little place to spend a few minutes or more. Anglers, canoeists and general tourists seemed to be making the most of the sun which had now become a more regular visitor (Met Office 1, BBC nil). With its narrow street(s?) I imagine Arley gets quite congested at weekends.

Arley

Arley footbridge​

Another toot signalled that I must be back near the railway so I headed over the footbridge and climbed the short, steep lane up to Arley station, where a bit of patience rewarded me with not one but two trains. None of the trains I'd seen today were busy; the carriages and compartments seemed mostly unoccupied. Maybe it's because the hols have yet to begin properly, or maybe it's Covid obliging the charity/trust to only allow pre-booked ticketing - I imagine that in normal times many passengers will hop on and off the train, enjoying walking between stations. That's not allowed at the moment … the train bit, not the walking obvs!

After completing the climb out the valley the next section of NCN45 took me off-road and into Wyre Forest at Button Oak. Hmm, sometimes these forest tracks can be … testing, if you're not on an off-road steed. But not today. The tracks through the forest were excellent - wide, firm, at times under canopy and at others through clearer areas. The forest seemed to have, at least to my untrained eye, a healthy mix of conifers and broadleaves.

I'm pretty sure at one point I glimpsed a tiny lizard as it skittered off the path and into the undergrowth. It was only about 3 or 4cm long, quite dark and I guess could have been a newt. I just didn't see it long enough to pick out any details, let alone stop and take a photo. A rare treat though, whatever it was. Having climbed and dropped and climbed once more, the helpful signposting now indicated Bewdley was only a couple of miles away. In fact, the stretch of trail down towards the town was along a long disused railway line, as evidence by a couple of stone, arched bridges crossing the trail. Surely the forest is a more recent addition?

The Severn running through Bewdley​

The centre of Bewdley really is postcard pretty, making the most of its riverfront location, at least when the Severn's not in flood. It was school chucking out time when I arrived, so traffic and pedestrians were at their most insistent. I took a brief stop for an apple, then made my way back the few miles to Wolverley.

Today was a real treat. I enjoyed the early section that I'd planned to do anyway, but going off piste proved to be a smart move. At Arley I got a second chance to see the Severn and then the Railway, and the Wyre Forest was wonderful, Cheshire Cat grinningly wonderful. And I only followed NCN 45; there's more miles of tracks to explore both by bike and on foot. It's serendipitous discoveries like these that make trips like these so rewarding for me.

 

[IaninSheffield]

Day 5 (16th July)

Bright, unimpeded sunlight greeted me on the final day, but sadly it would be endured on the drive home rather than enjoyed during another ride.

I enjoyed my stay at Wolverley - the site satisfied all my preferences regarding location, local facilities and ambience. It would make a good place to include on a tour, maybe the Mercian way beckons for the future? And as somewhere from which to conduct a single-centred tour it was ideal. From passing through by narrowboat all those years ago, I suspected it might be a good area to explore further. I just hadn’t quite appreciated how good and how extensive. I’ve left plenty still to do - further west towards Ludlow or north towards Bridgnorth would provide longer excursions than I’d felt necessary to take on this week. Or even a RailRide into Birmingham for the challenge of finding a quiet route back out. Plenty of reasons for a return trip, one way or another.

 

[HobbesOnTour]

So......
Advantages of sleeping in the van over a tent?

 

[IaninSheffield]

So......
Advantages of sleeping in the van over a tent?

Good question. Off the top of my head:

1. Although not an issue here, once the door is shut, it's quieter. On some sites near roads or on the edge of towns, traffic or low level industrial noise can be a pain when trying to get to sleep. Sometimes other campers can be noisy too.
2. Less worry about fierce or even just inclement weather.
3. Making or breaking camp is so much quicker. No panniers to unpack or repack.
4. Everything is to hand - just open a drawer or cupboard and it's there.
5. Running water supply (once it's been topped up!).
6. Dual fuel. A reasonable amount of onboard 'lectric, and the option to hookup to mains.
7. And you can take more stuff ... which I appreciate might not always be viewed as a positive.

Does that mean I'm gonna sell my tents? Not for a minute. Well, at least not while I'm still limber enough to get in and out of a touring tent.

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Just thinking today that such an arrangement gives you a huge advantage to get away touring. You can do a "hub and spoke" like you did or pack a tent and extend the spoke, a "hub and circumference" if you will.

Do we get to see the van?

 

[Rickshaw Phil]

Great write up. I'm glad you had a good time.

In answer to some of the questions posed: In order to keep operating through covid the SVR have been taking bookings only (you book a compartment rather than per person) and have only been having stops at certain stations. I'm not sure how long before they change back to something more like normality and imagine that they won't rush into anything for fear of having to change it all back in a hurry if the situation changes again. Up to date info is on their website for anyone interested: https://www.svr.co.uk/

In normal times, yes people do break their journey to walk. Riding the train one way and cycling back on the NCN45 is also a great thing to do (there is a charge for the bike). I haven't done it but you can (could) get canoe trips down the river then back on the train.

The Wyre Forest is an ancient one so predates the railway that ran through it by quite a margin. At one time it belonged to the Mortimer family (local landed gentry) which was unusual as at the time forests were generally the property of the Crown. Pre Industrial Revolution it was managed for producing charcoal.

 

[IaninSheffield]

@Rickshaw Phil Thanks for all the supplementary information. Yep, I noticed the compartment/table booking system for the SVR and I understand completely why they'd want to do that. Unfortunately for this solo traveller, it priced it well beyond what I was prepared to pay. But next time ...

When cycling on repurposed railways I often muse on what drivers might have looked out on from their cabs. Today I was on two different lines which are now cycleways and which currently present wonderfully green surroundings. But how would it have been back in the day when pits dominated the local landscape I wonder? The Wyre forest though must have been glorious.

 

[Rickshaw Phil]

A search on the Tenbury and Bewdley Railway brought up this which shows how it was: https://www.svrwiki.com/File:WyreForestRailcarColour.jpg

Looking at the steepness of the embankment it may well have been taken on the stretch the cycle route now uses.

 

[IaninSheffield]

Brilliant! Belated thanks and yes, I think you might be right.

A little more digging revealed the line closed to passengers in 1961 and to goods in '64. I often wonder whether lines such as this, in the current climate, might be more viable than when they closed?

 

[Saracenlad]

What sort of van do you have Ian? Been thinking along the same lines myself with my little Citroen Berlingo.

 

[IaninSheffield]

What sort of van do you have Ian? Been thinking along the same lines myself with my little Citroen Berlingo.

I've seen some cracking Berlingo conversions. Is yours already done?
Mine's a ex-British Gas VW Caddy Maxi, though I can't take any credit for the conversion:

The roof rack's now gone, a skylight added, and a couple of other more cosmetic additions:

Hoping I can get away a little more often this year.

 

[Saracenlad]

I've seen some cracking Berlingo conversions. Is yours already done?
Mine's a ex-British Gas VW Caddy Maxi, though I can't take any credit for the conversion:

View attachment 627731​

The roof rack's now gone, a skylight added, and a couple of other more cosmetic additions:

View attachment 627736​

Hoping I can get away a little more often this year.

WOW!!!! Thanks Ian. That is a great conversion. Congrats to whoever did it. My Berlingo is just as it was bought. Mesh screen behind seats. We used to get both our Raleigh bikes in, one down each side and all our camping stuff in the middle. We then bought a nice Freedom caravan, fully self contained cooker, fridge, toilet room and a nice double bed. The Berlingo would be just for me as a solo camping venture. Really love the look of yours. Thanks again.