Any Tips For An MTB Rider Taking His First Ride Out On A Road Bike?

[Ming the Merciless]

Relax , ride smooth, don’t try and find any limits, look ahead for and avoid obstacles. Keep fairly close to home in case of problems you can’t solve.

 

[Lovacott]

It's a bit like learning to ride again, as I've been on MTB's last 5 years.... half the bar width, stem 2-3 times longer... and the road bike was what I spent most of my life on. It's like a rocket ship I can't control, despite being OK on gnarly descents on a MTB.

In my teens in the 1970's, when everybody else was on a chopper, I was on my road bike. I only had road bikes up until my mid thirties.

Bone saddle, narrow wheels, bent over forward at 90 degrees, tearing up the miles, crashing now and again.

MTB's are a lot more forgiving but it takes you ages to get anywhere on an MTB.

I'm itching to get out on the road bike again, but I'm equally as terrified (what if??).

But get out on it I will.

 

[Lovacott]

Ah ok

Yesterday. https://www.bbc.co.uk/sport/formula1/56040612

 

[vickster]

Yesterday. https://www.bbc.co.uk/sport/formula1/56040612

I have zero interest in F1 so passed me by

 

[Reynard]

A road bike can be a bit wibbly-wobbly at low speeds. But the faster you go, the smoother it gets. It's a totally different animal to a MTB, and a lot more responsive, but you don't forget how if you've done it before.

It's just like... riding a bike.

But as has been said upthread, you will need to pay more attention to the road surface up ahead as you ride. Potholes, puddles, debris, cracks in the road...

 

[Lovacott]

I have zero interest in F1 so passed me by

It's a good story though. Pro car driver gets badly injured by a car driver whilst riding a pushbike to get fit for pro car driving?

I'd like to see Clarkson or the Daily Mail trying to explain how that one is evidence that cyclists are a menace.

 

[cyberknight]

Close your eyes and pedal as hard you can

Not till you barf though it's not as fun as it sounds

 

[Lovacott]

Take it steady, but not too steady: a road bike won't keep going at very low MTB speeds easily. Get used to how the gears change, and that the steering will be a bit different. You're also higher up.

I take a little while to adjust between road / hybrid / cross / track / TT bikes - it's no different if you're on a road bike from an MTB.

One thing I'm a little unsure of is how tight I should do up the quick releases on the wheels?

I've never had a QR on a bike before although I've tightened them on my kids bikes many times. I've always done them up so hard that you have to use your entire bodyweight to open them up again.

Obviously, I can't do that with a carbon bike, but I'm unsure how I gauge the correct tightness?

At the moment, the front is on with two fingers worth of pressure (I had to take off the front wheel to get the bike into the car).

Is there a more accurate/safer way to gauge QR torque?

 

[Lovacott]

Relax , ride smooth, don’t try and find any limits, look ahead for and avoid obstacles. Keep fairly close to home in case of problems you can’t solve.

I've gotten into the habit of examining road surfaces whenever I am out in the car. I've built up a bit of a pothole, obstacle map of the local area (in my head).

There are some roads I will avoid on the road bike and there are others which I will take with caution. I'd ride every single road in the area on my MTB though.

I aim to go tubeless to reduce the puncture risk and doubtless over time, I will get a bit more adventurous about where I go and how far away I go.

 

[DCBassman]

One thing I'm a little unsure of is how tight I should do up the quick releases on the wheels?

I've never had a QR on a bike before although I've tightened them on my kids bikes many times. I've always done them up so hard that you have to use your entire bodyweight to open them up again.

Obviously, I can't do that with a carbon bike, but I'm unsure how I gauge the correct tightness?

At the moment, the front is on with two fingers worth of pressure (I had to take off the front wheel to get the bike into the car).

Is there a more accurate/safer way to gauge QR torque?

Remember that the QR and bearing adjustment cones work together to some extent. Overtightening never a good idea. What you're doing on the front sounds right.

 

[Ming the Merciless]

Finger tight for QR is about right. Remember it works by camming. You don’t do it up just like it’s a bolt. There should be enough force that it’s firm against your fingers, when you close it, but no need for you to use your palm. You should be able to undo it with one or two fingers as well.

 

[biggs682]

Cock your leg over the bar and pedal the rest will hopefully come naturally .
Just do a few test rides somewhere quiet first

 

[Deleted member 26715]

Then get off 2 miles down the road when your back is caining & wonder why anyone puts themselves through this agony when there are much nicer ways to ride a bike.

 

[Kajjal]

The main difference is your Lycra bodysuit which will make you ride faster due to less air resistance and shame of being seen out in public on it

More seriously just take your time and enjoy it. The main differences I found to begin with are less stability initially and going from disc to rim brakes meant as the finely honed bronzed Adonis of mountain biking braking was not as good. Now have a disc based bike so all fine.

 

[SkipdiverJohn]

To me the difference is mainly in the sensitivity of the steering. On some no-nonsense flat bar steed you have a wider hand grip and can usually make the thing go where you want it by force even on rough disturbing surfaces. On lighter, more agile, road machines with drop bars they rebel against that sort of brute force riding style by veering off course and not playing ball. You have to try to steer around surface disturbances rather than just try to plough on, a more subtle and sympathetic approach tends to make for better progress.