Anyone ride fixed without a lockring?

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OP
OP
tyred

tyred

Legendary Member
Location
Ireland
Well, my hub, like the rest of the bike, is steel so no electrolytic corrosion.

However, it definitely hasn't unscrewed, I haven't bent the frame, stripped the threads, or crashed and burst into flames. I think it works just fine.
 

Radius

SHREDDER
Location
London
The reason lockrings aren't used on the track is because there's absolutely no need for them; the riders are always going forward, never leg braking, and are generally running very high gear ratios with lots of *forward* power. On the street, you're gonna be doing the exact opposite. Rotafixing is not a good alternative, using a standard chain whip (even with a hollow metal bar as an extender to get extra torque) will put your sprocket on tighter. There is no evidence that a correctly installed lockring can (somehow?!) lead to your bike exploding.
 

Radius

SHREDDER
Location
London
When I say 'leg braking' I mean the kind of high torque leg braking that goes on when riding on the road, making emergency stops etc. That really isn't comparable to what goes on on the track, which I have ridden / raced. What possible justification is there for not having a lockring on a road-based fixed gear bike?
 

Smurfy

Naturist Smurf
1/8 chain is far stronger than you think

3/32 are more than strong enough as well.

Keeping everything else the same (e.g. material properties) a 3/32" chain will always be stronger than a 1/8" chain. The pins in a 1/8" chain are longer, so the bending moment on the pins will always be higher. For this reason (and also because there's so much more choice in the 3/32" world) I'll always use 3/32" on my fixed wheel bike.

you need a 3 piece link with the circlip

I use a proper fixed/ss chain and it has one of these 3 piece links. I don't think I'd use anything else as I think the three piece link is the correct part for the job. However, having said that, a few years ago I tried the experiment of riding an SRAM PC850 on my multi-geared commuter until it broke. Rather surprisingly it broke on a regular link rather than at the quick-link, so it appears that the rivetting on the quick-link is much stronger. I think SRAM, or one of the other chain manufacturers actually say on their website that if all links were made and rivetted to the same strength as a quick-link it would be impossible for us to shorten a chain using 'normal' non-industrial tools.

If anyone wants to see pictures of the chain I rode to death I'll post them up!
 

Zoiders

New Member
Keeping everything else the same (e.g. material properties) a 3/32" chain will always be stronger than a 1/8" chain. The pins in a 1/8" chain are longer, so the bending moment on the pins will always be higher. For this reason (and also because there's so much more choice in the 3/32" world) I'll always use 3/32" on my fixed wheel bike.



I use a proper fixed/ss chain and it has one of these 3 piece links. I don't think I'd use anything else as I think the three piece link is the correct part for the job. However, having said that, a few years ago I tried the experiment of riding an SRAM PC850 on my multi-geared commuter until it broke. Rather surprisingly it broke on a regular link rather than at the quick-link, so it appears that the rivetting on the quick-link is much stronger. I think SRAM, or one of the other chain manufacturers actually say on their website that if all links were made and rivetted to the same strength as a quick-link it would be impossible for us to shorten a chain using 'normal' non-industrial tools.

If anyone wants to see pictures of the chain I rode to death I'll post them up!
The pins have got a roller around them so strength is about the same, the 3/32 pin doesn't get stonger because it's shorter, engagement of the pins into the side plates is about the same, possibly a bit greater with a 1/8 chain.
 

AlanW

Guru
Location
Not to sure?
What possible justification is there for not having a lockring on a road-based fixed gear bike?

I totally agree, in fact I cannot understand the justification for not having one on the track either? I know people do, but I don't understand the reasoning or logic? And don't tell me its all about the speed to replace sprockets and the extra time it takes to remove the lock ring?
 

fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
Never mind - there is some real crap spouted about bending frames etc.

If you ever start 'leg braking' on the track (or on the flat) and the coach spot's you - you are in trouble.

I've yet to unlock my sprockets in 2.5 years of fixed commuting...no lock ring.

Racing is different, and is 'fixie skids' - I am not 'skidding' on proper tyres.
 

alecstilleyedye

nothing in moderation
Moderator
well my powerlink did indeed fail me today; the result of my having inexpertly installed it. the result? not much; the chain wound itself around the sprocket and lock ring in a fairly orderly fashion with only the slightest of jamming against the hub.

no damage at all to the frame, or myself (admittedly the speed was not high), and what struck me was that the lbs (whom i trust) was happy to install a new powerlink (properly, see here), and i doubt he'd have put that on if it wasn't safe to do so…
 
OP
OP
tyred

tyred

Legendary Member
Location
Ireland
The sprocket decided to unscrew last night. Light leg breaking in a controlled manner approaching a junction, it just dropped harmlessly on to the axle. This was after about 400 miles. No real issue as I have brakes front and back and I just stopped, took off the wheel, spun the sprocket back on again and continued on my way but I think I will take it off again to add some Locktite on the threads to prevent a repeat.
 
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