Applying waxoyl to a bike frame

[chug666]

Hi all,

I'm building a croix de fer as a do it all bike and having read a bit on the pros and cons of pre- build frame protection I thought I'd give it a go. Went for waxoyl aerosol because I had some in the garage and it gets as many mentions as other options. My thoughts on the process:

1. It is messy! I tried heating up the can of waxoyl so it went on a bit less clumpy (put it in a measuring jug of hot water) and that possibly helped, but it still went everywhere. Easy to wipe off mind.

2. The bendy plastic tube to get into angles isn't that bendy. Felt like most locations it went straight in, so only the metal immediately alongside each hole got a decent blast.

3. It is impossible to see how good a coverage you achieve. I mean you could dissect each tube, but that would be inadvisable.

I'm letting it dry before I pass further judgement. The whole process didn't take too long and I'm glad I've done the seat tube, bb shell and fork head tube, but the rest felt a bit hit and miss. I guess if I strip the bike down in a year or two and it's rust free it will have been worth it!

Interested to hear from any other waxoylers, and how your technique differed from mine...

 

[Cycleops]

That would never occur to me but if you are expecting the bike to last into the next century I guess it's a good idea. More power to your preservative.

 

[ianrauk]

Never had to go through all that pallaver when building bikes.

 

[I like Skol]

I injected old blackened engine oil into my recent new steel framed bike. It has seeped out in a few places but seems to have crept around most of the points of concern (bottom bracket, chainstays, chainstay bridge and seatstay bridge).
I plan to repeat this annually.

 

[Bonefish Blues]

There are better things to use than Waxoyl, which has been superseded. Dinitrol is a good option.

 

[User6179]

Used waxoyl years ago, If it is still the same stuff then it will not dry in and just scrape off if it contacts anything.

 

[Bazzer]

Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 would IMHO have been a better option. In my experience (on cars) it doesn't clump like Waxoyl.

 

[chug666]

Thanks for feedback all. As mentioned, I chose waxoyl as I had some to hand but appreciate there are plenty of other options and many who feel this is all unnecessary!

Had a look this morning and it is still quite loose, but interestingly when I gently wipe off the foamy bit it leaves a thin transparent layer- presumably this will do my frame some good (if it lasts and doesn't wash off at the first sign of water!). Coverage in the stays etc is a question mark but I'm now cracking on with building the thing.

 

[Andy in Germany]

How much use is this after you've got rust in the frame?

Asking for a friend, obviously...

 

[chug666]

I'd have thought it depends how much rust!

Think it's supposed to stop (delay?) the rot so if it isn't too far gone and everything is dry I can't see it doing any harm (but i'm clearly not an expert!).

Good luck.

 

[fossyant]

You could always add some spray lube as well if needed. Tip the frame up to spread it. When I remove the BB on my two 25 year old steel bikes, all I get is a lovely waft of lube/anti-rust spray.

 

[rogerzilla]

Dynax S50 is easier to use, as ithe aerosol can comes with a long injection nozzle. I think it's mail order only. I did my old Harry Quinns with it.

 

[Bonefish Blues]

Dynax S50 is easier to use, as ithe aerosol can comes with a long injection nozzle. I think it's mail order only. I did my old Harry Quinns with it.

Everything's easier to use than Waxoyl, to be fair

 

[chug666]

Everything's easier to use than Waxoyl, to be fair

I wouldn't say it was that hard to apply really (heating it up seemed to help) - could be completely ineffective but it only took 20 mins!

Thanks to all for the recommendations, might get hold of some for the next strip and refresh.

 

[Bonefish Blues]

It's more that the alternatives are cleaner, dry to a non-sticky finish and stay where they are put.