Beginner at 150kg

[Ronan1001]

Earlier this year, I was speaking to a 6 foot 4inch bloke, who was well over 20 stone, his expensive carbon fibre rim wheels had cracked on his very expensive pro carbon bike. I told him that pro carbon fibre wheels aren't strong enough for 20 stone riders, he would be better with some 36 spoke heavy duty wheels, with preferably Ryde Andra or Sputnik rims. He wasn't pleased with my suggestion.

He must have counted the cost and didn't like it

Good advice from people who probably know much more than most.

You haven't said what you want the bike for, if it's for utility cycling then an Elephant Bike or the same bike in its original Mailstar form are rated for about 150kg possibly 160kg I can't remember off the top of my head.

If it's for sports / leisure I think a good old rigid mountain bike will do you proud, if your riding on the road then some slick tyres would be a worthwhile upgrade.

Take the plunge though, as was said up the thread it's not a great time to be riding, but that also means it's a great time to be buying a bike especially second hand. This is not SlotEire, where everything is simple and clear. You have to figure it out.

A mountain bike for outdoor activities was my best purchase many years ago. I second your suggestion
I was going to put smoother tires on earlier, but then I changed my mind because I never know where I'll be riding the next day. I use studded tires! Noisy on asphalt, but that's what I'm used to.

 

[GuyBoden]

So are you saying it's possible to buy most bikes and fit these rims sorry I am very new to this.

I'm saying that if you buy a bike and the wheels keep buckling badly and the spokes keep breaking, you'll need to have the wheels rebuilt with stronger rims, I'd recommend Ryde Sputnik, Ryde Big Bull rims, but there are other strong rims available, ask a wheel builder to build the strongest wheels for your requirements.

 

[Ronan1001]

I'm saying that if you buy a bike and the wheels keep buckling badly and the spokes keep breaking, you'll need to have the wheels rebuilt with stronger rims, I'd recommend Ryde Sputnik, Ryde Big Bull rims, but there are other strong rims available, ask a wheel builder to build the strongest wheels for your requirements.

Let me ask you, how much weight are the strongest wheels designed for? Have you heard anything about that?

 

[chris667]

First, congratulations for wanting to start cycling. It really is incredible and I know if you stick with it you'll love it.

Second, I would suggest not to buy a mail order bike. It will be rubbish, and there's no comeback if it goes wrong.

I have weighed as much as you, a lot less than you, and now I'm somewhere in the middle. Here's my thoughts on weight limits, for what they're worth.

Let me ask you, how much weight are the strongest wheels designed for? Have you heard anything about that?

The strongest wheels are suitable for tandems, cargo bikes, world tours and death defying jumps. Sometimes all at the same time. You will not break a well built wheel. Cheaper machine built wheels go out of true and break spokes but they're built by machine.

With regards to weight limits - I had a conversation with one of the frame designers at Ridgeback about this once. He told me that the 120kg limit that they put on their bikes was a pass/fail test. A bike might well be capable of carrying twice as much but not tested for more, so that's the limit. Superlight bikes designed for racers are a different case, but you don't need one of those. Yet!

So any weight limits should be taken with a pinch of salt - they are pretty much arbitrary. If you weigh more than 160kg, you probably want a different sort of bike but that's because you need something that you'll find more comfortable, but at 150KG, just a normal bike with strong wheels would be fine.

I have quite a few bikes that would work for you - if you are near Derby you are welcome to come and try a couple.

 

[Peter Salt]

I'd say get something that the manufacturer rates for 150kg - otherwise no warranty in case it fails. Strong wheels and springy tires. Don't worry about system weight as it's much cheaper to lose 2kg of off yourself than the bike.

'Fat bike' sounds like a good idea - no pun intended

 

[buzz22]

I'm close to 130kg and agree with the advice from other riders here.
Having a few different styles of bikes and riding all of them in varying conditions the bike that I think is probably best suited to my size as a bigger rider (6'5" and around 130kg or 20 stone) is an older steel framed mountain bike.
Rigid frame and forks means no suspension to overload.
26 inch good quality 36 spoke wheels means spokes are shorter and wheels stronger.
A wide range of gears, especially lower gears, makes hills easier. With hills being the natural enemy of heavier riders they'll be the first thing to dent your confidence.
My late 90's Raleigh is one bike that I don't have to baby and I have full confidence in it commuting to work on roads, bike paths and light off road terrain.

The ability to fit a rack also saves your shoulders from a backpack.

 

[chris667]

I'd say get something that the manufacturer rates for 150kg - otherwise no warranty in case it fails. Strong wheels and springy tires. Don't worry about system weight as it's much cheaper to lose 2kg of off yourself than the bike.

'Fat bike' sounds like a good idea - no pun intended

Naah.

If there IS a warranty claim, how would they ever find out the weight of the rider?

Buy something secondhand and cheap - the bike you want to ride when you're 16 stone is nowhere near the bike you want to ride when you're 20 stone. Bikes that work well for us powerfully built folks are really harsh to lighter riders.

 

[Bigdigger92]

Hey how are you getting on with your journey? I'm in a similar predicament.

 

[chris667]

I'm in a similar predicament.

He was probably scared off. Forums like this are quite intimidating if you're an overweight rider.

The advice in this thread still stands. Give it a go, and don't listen to too many experts! You will be slow, when you start it will feel uncomfortable. That's just your body adapting.

Actually, so does my offer of a very cheap MTB for someone who weighs 150KG if you're near Derby.

 

[chqshaitan]

Just to pitch in on this, at my heaviest i was around 145kg and was using a evans cyclecross archos 3 bike for my riding. More recently (till i lost a load of weight) i was looking into the decathlon touring bikes, as they are rated upto 170KG.

https://www.decathlon.co.uk/p/touring-bike-riverside-520-blue/_/R-p-332407?mc=8643286

 

[davidphilips]

Buy used, some used MTBs without suspension can be bought very cheap and should last ok, then as you lose weight you can upgrade, main thing is just get cycling avoid heavy traffic and dont worry about distance or speed just enjoy and the more you enjoy the cycle the better it will be for you and the more you will want to cycle, best wishes.

 

[Donger]

I have been riding for about 14 years now, during which time I have always been between 130 and 140kg (currently 140kg). I was initially concerned about whether any bike would take my weight and in my case I opted for a steel touring bike. The logic was that it would be built for durability and weight carrying.

I initially found that, as the OP suggests, the wheels were the main point of concern, as I had a habit of breaking spokes on my rear wheel (the main weight bearing one). The mechanic at my LBS was fantastic with me, and I have always had him change the spokes on the rear wheel to "Alpine 3" triple-butted spokes as he recommended.

As a belt-and-braces measure, I also opted for a combination of virtually bomb-proof Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres and Slime self-sealing inner tubes. I have never had a broken spoke since, and have only ever had two punctures out on the road (so far). A touring bike has proved to be an extremely versatile all purpose choice, capable of gravel rides, audaxing and just about keeping up with slower groups on club rides. The lower gearing of a thoroughbred tourer (which I have also had altered to a 34T cassette on both bikes) is also a real must if you are planning on taking on any hills. Mine got my 22 stone ass up the Colombiere a few years ago.

Good luck to you. I hope you can find a bike that will liberate you and give you as much reliable riding pleasure as my two Ridgeback Panoramas have over the years.

 

[HMS_Dave]

It can be done. I have done it and i was heavier than the OP to start. My bike to start was a cheap second hand chinese steel framed fat bike. It took my weight no problem as it has wide rims and 36 spokes, i quickly brought an elephant bike which is an ex-royal mail post bike which i still ride today. Don't over-complicate things. If you want a wheel builder to build a set of wheels to cope, fine. But it doesn't need to be this way if you're on a budget/dipping your toes in. I've never heard of a metal framed bike buckling under the weight of any rider outside of aged wear and tear, despite the weight limits imposed by manufacturers, which i suspect more applies to the wheels, Maybe other people have but i haven't. Any broken spokes are cheaply replaced. I think a second hand bike either a 90's MTB or a cheap fat bike is a good place to start, you don't need thousands. As i always suggest, avoid jumping off kerbs, avoid pot holes like the plague, take it easy and you'll be fine.

 

[mustang1]

I came across this YouTube channel the other day. Search for
Nrml Mtber