Best MTB Under £1000

[SkipdiverJohn]

I regularly ride those sort of tracks either on a 26" rigid Raleigh or Apollo MTB, a Raleigh Pioneer hybrid, or an ancient rod braked Raleigh 3-speed roadster. They all manage it OK. From a maintenance perspective the 3-speed wins hands down. No matter how much muddy filth I ride through, the transmission is totally unaffected. The only thing that would put me off using it in Devon is the limited number of gear ratios and the brakes ain't great when splashing through a lot of standing water. The terrain I ride on is not steep enough to make it impractical though.
A hybrid or MTB-derived type bike with hub gears but a couple of extra ratios more than the Sturmey's 3-speed, an enclosed chaincase like the Raleigh, and alloy rims for better wet braking, would make an outstanding utility bike in either 26" or 700 size tyres. The only problem is such a spec is not mainstream so I would probably have to put one together from parts.
I'd probably do so using my Ian May 531ST tourer frame (or a spare Raleigh 501 MTB one if going 26" for the tyre width), a Shimano hub gear, and strong hand built 36 hole wheels. I'd gear it for 80-ish inches at the top end and work down from that to arrive at the chainwheel & sprocket sizes. I most certainly would not spend £1k and i would not buy on C2W. The mainstream are pushing 11 speed for gravel and I would not touch that stuff with a bargepole because if you run derailleurs in filthy conditions they are going to wear, and the 1 x 11 cassettes and chains are way too expensive for a commuting hack that is going to be repeatedly ridden through filthy abrasive crap. Realistically, you are not going to wash it after every ride like some recreational MTB'ers do. In winter the bike will get filthy more days than it will stay clean and it will get put away filthy and ridden again the next day in the same state.

 

[HobbesOnTour]

I'm still not clear on what exactly the problem is with your current bike?
Tyres can be changed.
Brakes/gear changes are a matter of fine tuning and maintenance.
Based on what I understand of your route it's going to be tough on any bike.

The only advantage I can see in a new bike would be bigger wheels which may make the rough parts a little smoother. There's always the danger that the new bike comes with unsuitable tyres for you and the muck on the route soon messes up your smooth shifting and you're back to square one.

There's a second purchase in the background too, a bike for weekend use. Light, long rides or a weekend B&Bing/camping etc?

The idea of a hub gear sounds like the perfect long term drivetrain solution in your conditions. Something like a Rohloff (not cheap!) can give pretty good gear range and need minimal maintenance. Of course, that means a new frame and that gives you the option to think about what you really want in terms of tyre clearance, wheel size, baggage capability, dynohub, types of handlebars etc. It'll be a lot more than £1000 but it could be an all-in-one bike - with your Apollo as backup.
(If you want an ultra light roadbike for flying around then maybe not so much).

I still think it's a good idea to get through the winter and see what Mother Nature throws at you.

Finally, before you do purchase a new bike check out the cost of consumables such as chains and cassettes. Work out how often you'll need to replace them and compare to your current bike. You might be surprised!

 

[Lovacott]

I regularly ride those sort of tracks either on a 26" rigid Raleigh or Apollo MTB, a Raleigh Pioneer hybrid, or an ancient rod braked Raleigh 3-speed roadster. They all manage it OK. From a maintenance perspective the 3-speed wins hands down. No matter how much muddy filth I ride through, the transmission is totally unaffected. The only thing that would put me off using it in Devon is the limited number of gear ratios and the brakes ain't great when splashing through a lot of standing water. The terrain I ride on is not steep enough to make it impractical though.
A hybrid or MTB-derived type bike with hub gears but a couple of extra ratios more than the Sturmey's 3-speed, an enclosed chaincase like the Raleigh, and alloy rims for better wet braking, would make an outstanding utility bike in either 26" or 700 size tyres. The only problem is such a spec is not mainstream so I would probably have to put one together from parts.
I'd probably do so using my Ian May 531ST tourer frame (or a spare Raleigh 501 MTB one if going 26" for the tyre width), a Shimano hub gear, and strong hand built 36 hole wheels. I'd gear it for 80-ish inches at the top end and work down from that to arrive at the chainwheel & sprocket sizes. I most certainly would not spend £1k and i would not buy on C2W. The mainstream are pushing 11 speed for gravel and I would not touch that stuff with a bargepole because if you run derailleurs in filthy conditions they are going to wear, and the 1 x 11 cassettes and chains are way too expensive for a commuting hack that is going to be repeatedly ridden through filthy abrasive crap. Realistically, you are not going to wash it after every ride like some recreational MTB'ers do. In winter the bike will get filthy more days than it will stay clean and it will get put away filthy and ridden again the next day in the same state.

I've kind of got around the problem of a dirty drive train by building a DIY fairing. Some grit still gets through but it's less than 10% of what was getting through before. I clean and oil the drivetrain every Saturday morning when the missus and kids are still in bed.

I do like having a decent range of gears because some of the hills around here are pretty severe. The highest elevation is 422 feet above my start point but a lot of the climbs are followed by descents which means there is little net gain on each climb.

The first half of my commute home involves four pretty challenging climbs, none of which I could manage at all when I first started (I did a lot of walking). The first three climbs are followed by drops which wipe out a lot of the height gain (soul destroying).

I'm determined to keep it up though because my fitness gains have been pretty immense. I'm 59 years old and my average BP is now 116 over 67 whereas I was in the pre hypertension range at the start of the year. My resting pulse rate is now sub 50 and my physique has changed beyond all recognition. No more pot belly, no more fat arse, no more double chin and no more flabby thighs.

What I'm not doing though is much weekend cycling. There are some really nice routes locally which are perfect for a road bike or racer and I'd like to get out on them. My options are to either buy a bike which will handle the commute and be good for recreation, or to have two bikes.

 

[Randomnerd]

Alpkit Sonder Camino will fit the bill. Chuck on some mudguards. Will do anything. The Shimano GRX flavour is 1300 well spent

 

[Lovacott]

I'm still not clear on what exactly the problem is with your current bike?
Tyres can be changed.
Brakes/gear changes are a matter of fine tuning and maintenance.
Based on what I understand of your route it's going to be tough on any bike.

I've hit a brick wall when it comes to fitness gains and some of the climbs I still find very hard (although ten times easier than when I first started).

At the end of a long day at work, I'm filled with dread at the thought of spending the next hour puffing and panting and arriving home drenched in sweat. If it was 10% easier, I wouldn't mind it so much.

Unladen but with panniers and lights fitted, the bike weighs in at 23kg which is a bit heavy. Also, it's tricky to get streamlined on an MTB and on the way home this week (due west), I've been cycling into some fairly strong headwinds.

I've changed out just about everything on the bike for something slightly better. I've fitted a cartridge to the bottom bracket and changed the entire drivetrain. New bearings and axles, all new cables and new gear shifters, all new discs and callipers. Better tyres, better saddle. This was done out of necessity rather than choice because there were no new bikes available back in the spring. Because there was a shortage of bike stuff, I probably paid over the odds for parts (I could buy the same crank set today for 30% less than I did back in June).

I'd say that the bike runs better today than the day I bought it six years ago.

As you rightly say, I could continue with the Apollo and progressively upgrade the components when they need replacing, but would I not just be trying to make a silk purse out of a sows ear?

 

[SkipdiverJohn]

At the end of a long day at work, I'm filled with dread at the thought of spending the next hour puffing and panting and arriving home drenched in sweat. If it was 10% easier, I wouldn't mind it so much.

Unladen but with panniers and lights fitted, the bike weighs in at 23kg which is a bit heavy......

As you rightly say, I could continue with the Apollo and progressively upgrade the components when they need replacing, but would I not just be trying to make a silk purse out of a sows ear?

How come your Apollo is so heavy? 23kg is over 50 lbs! Even my ultra-solid Raleigh 3-speed weighs only 41 lbs with lights and steel mudguards. My own 90's vintage Apollo hack MTB with a 21" frame weighs about 34lbs with nothing on it. Even with a rack, empty panniers, lights I doubt it would be over 40 lbs. Have you got one of those horrid lead-weight framed suspension Apollos by any chance? If so, I can understand why it weighs so much, but the figure you quoted is massive for a rigid MTB.

 

[rivers]

I'd personally go with a gravel bike, but a sub-compact (46/30) and wide ranging cassette in the back (11-34 or 11-36). Save some money for a nice second set of wheels for the road and nicer weather, shod with narrower tyres. It should then be a decent do-it-all bike.

 

[HobbesOnTour]

I've hit a brick wall when it comes to fitness gains and some of the climbs I still find very hard (although ten times easier than when I first started).

I'm not a fitness expert but a couple of observations...
My understanding is that an immediate improvement is seen when starting a new exercise regime.....but that over time each gain is smaller and smaller. Most likely this is the stage you are at, no?

Also, it's October 31 - a very different situation to the summer in terms of the clothing you are wearing. Very easy and comfortable to work up a sweat in June, not so much in November.

At the end of a long day at work, I'm filled with dread at the thought of spending the next hour puffing and panting and arriving home drenched in sweat. If it was 10% easier, I wouldn't mind it so much.

Dreading is not good!
Puffing and sweating is not good either!
My commute home was my favourite part because I didn't have a clock waiting for me to punch in. You've a wife and kids so maybe they're your clock? If so, any chance of changing the evening routine to take the pressure off your bike riding time?
It seems to me you're pushing it too hard, possibly wearing the wrong gear or would benefit from a change in attitude, or a bit of all three.
I hated my commute if I was racing the clock. I changed the display on my wahoo so I didn't see speed or anything that would detract from my time for me. Plus, at the end of the work day who wants to be pushing so hard?

Unladen but with panniers and lights fitted, the bike weighs in at 23kg which is a bit heavy.

That's seriously heavy!! My MTB set up for touring with racks front and back, heavy wheels, tyres, dynohub doesn't weigh that!
But....is it really important?
If you want to get fitter and stronger does a heavier bike not help that?
Ok, if you're looking at your speedo all the time a heavier bike can seem a hindrance. You could get a lighter bike (what improvement will you want to see for every £100 spent?) or...Stop looking at the speedo and enjoy the ride! 😊

Also, it's tricky to get streamlined on an MTB and on the way home this week (due west), I've been cycling into some fairly strong headwinds.

Fair enough. I've changed mine around for a more upright position. We're all different!
But....surely another MTB will have similar geometry and the same problem?

As you rightly say, I could continue with the Apollo and progressively upgrade the components when they need replacing, but would I not just be trying to make a silk purse out of a sows ear?

It's all relative. I'm sure someone looking at mine is going to say "Sow's ear" but I like the fact that it goes unnoticed. I put it together to match my needs and it's done fine.

I'm not sure I advocated upgrading the components?

From your posts, your commute is pretty specific and almost unique. Big climbs, bad surfaces, remote so reliability is vital. The things that will let you go fast on the good roads will be the things that let you down on the rough stuff.

I'm not sure a new bike is necessarily the way to go....now.

As an example....the wind.
Now you know being able to duck down can be a big advantage. Make that the first item on the list of "your perfect bike". You can't flip your current one over because of the lights. Better light placement can be number two. And so on.
Maybe the hills will never be comfortable. Perhaps an e-bike would be a better solution than huffing and puffing and sweating on a February morning.
If you've got the money to keep buying new bikes, fire ahead. Alternatively, that money could be spent on bikes for the wife and kids?

You're already in better shape than you were a year ago. At what point do you say to yourself "Good job"? or do you keep on reaching for ever smaller improvements?

I'm probably not being much help to you, but I see cycling as a big picture thing. Focusing on one detail can mean that the big picture is obscured.

Good luck!

 

[Lovacott]

How come your Apollo is so heavy? 23kg is over 50 lbs! Even my ultra-solid Raleigh 3-speed weighs only 41 lbs with lights and steel mudguards. My own 90's vintage Apollo hack MTB with a 21" frame weighs about 34lbs with nothing on it. Even with a rack, empty panniers, lights I doubt it would be over 40 lbs. Have you got one of those horrid lead-weight framed suspension Apollos by any chance? If so, I can understand why it weighs so much, but the figure you quoted is massive for a rigid MTB.

It's an Appollo Paradox hardtail MTB to which I have fitted a lightweight rack and ABS mudguards. I weigh the bike by standing on a scale and deducting my body weight from the overall weight. I've verified my weighing technique by using a set of calibrated scales at work.

A good chunk of the weight seems to be at the front in the suspension forks.

I've cut down on what I carry because I have to drive to work one day per week due to outside commitments. I use that day to take in work clothing and the like.

I've streamlined my toolset and reduced the amount of water I take with me (I only take what I will actually drink).

One of the guys I work with has a son who is well into cycling and he commented on how heavy my bike is compared to his.

I looked at an old review for the bike (2012) and it was given a 1 out of 5 on Bike Radar.

I don't hate the bike, it runs like a dream when I'm not ploughing up a hill.

I don't mind a bit of hard work to maintain fitness.

But to be honest, it's too much hard work for my liking.

 

[fossyant]

It's in the name - Apollo - same weight as the moon. Doesn't matter much on the flat TBH.

This is my old MTB that does get guards and less agressive tyres fitted in winter - It's done tiny slicks that are 1.2 and fast.... , then moved onto 2.4 for general riding (in picture), and is currently wearing full guards and 2.1 tyres.. Icy weather will go on the 2.0 Studded tyres.

It's a 1990 MTB.

 

[Lovacott]

Dreading is not good!
Puffing and sweating is not good either!
My commute home was my favourite part because I didn't have a clock waiting for me to punch in. You've a wife and kids so maybe they're your clock? If so, any chance of changing the evening routine to take the pressure off your bike riding time?

I 100% get what you are saying.

I don't start work until 8am but when I cycle, I arrive at 6.45am.

I allow a contingency for a catastrophic failure on the way in so that I can either walk home and get the car or continue into work (whichever is the closest).

I've always been an early arriver at work whether driving, taking the tube or riding a bike. I'd rather be an hour early than a second late (old school work ethic maybe?)

When I get to work, I make a coffee, browse the web and chat to some of the other early arrivers before cleaning myself up and getting changed ready for the day.

On the way home, I can't wait to get home so I tend to go hell for leather. When I drive home, I get in at about 5.25pm and cycling on a good day gets me in at about five minutes to six.

If I took the ride home a bit more easily, I might add ten minutes to my commute but arrive home in a better state?

Maybe I will try that approach this week.

 

[Lovacott]

This is my old MTB that does get guards and less agressive tyres fitted in winter - It's done tiny slicks that are 1.2 and fast.... , then moved onto 2.4 for general riding (in picture), and is currently wearing full guards and 2.1 tyres.. Icy weather will go on the 2.0 Studded tyres.

I notice that your saddle looks about 4 inches higher than the handlebar stem.

I have mine level with the handlebars.

I've always set my saddle height by making sure than only my toes can touch the ground when the bike is set level.

Do I need to drop my handlebars?

 

[HobbesOnTour]

On the way home, I can't wait to get home

Well then, count your blessings!

If I took the ride home a bit more easily, I might add ten minutes to my commute but arrive home in a better state?

Maybe I will try that approach this week.

Good luck!

 

[fossyant]

I notice that your saddle looks about 4 inches higher than the handlebar stem.

I have mine level with the handlebars.

I've always set my saddle height by making sure than only my toes can touch the ground when the bike is set level.

Do I need to drop my handlebars?

It's an old skool bike - it's almost the same geometry as my road bikes. My newer MTB is much different - lots higher front, but saddle heights etc the same... Don't copy this as I struggle moving to the old MTB from the FS. New 'er MTB

Old Skool road bike.....

 

[SkipdiverJohn]

This is the old Apollo I use as a beater. Cheap & cheerful 15 speed Shimano , 26" alloys, hi-tensile frame. I've done a lot of miles on it with no issues whatsoever, and it was pretty "secondhand" when I rescued it. Sounds like Apollos were better quality when mine was made compared to your more recent one.

Leaving the style of bikes aside, I think your commute regime is a bit arse-about-face, TBH. Taking heavy stuff in by car makes total sense, I get that 100%. What I don't get is your morning/evening regime. As I understand it you live West of your workplace, so in the morning going to work you will usually have a tailwind, and a headwind in the evening, since the prevailing wind is usually somewhere from either the West or South West.
In the morning, when you have a favourable wind direction, you take it relatively easy and arrive, to my mind, ridiculously early and have a dead, unpaid hour to kill.
In the evening, when you're already tired from work, you ride hell for leather into a headwind, and then wonder why you are finding it hard going!. True, the weight of the bike is not going to help, but to me you are doing it the wrong way round. I would take it a lot easier and slower, if riding a heavy bike into the wind after a day's work, than if riding the bike whilst fresh with a tailwind!
If you tear about going home due to time pressure, why not see if you can start your day earlier and finish earlier? Then you could take it easy on the home ride and not knacker yourself.