Bike headset loose

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fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
Or you've also mixed up top and bottom bearings. The outer chamfered edges fit to the head tube chamfers.
 
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Mralexrides

Mralexrides

Active Member
Both bearings are identical in size and shape though? and I did try swapping them over still sat on top of it awkwardly. In the GCN vid says the tapered side should always face down?
 

C R

Guru
Location
Worcester
Are the bearings supposed to be press fitted onto the head tube?
ETA
Photos of the bearings on their own would be helpful. Also in your OP you mentioned a rubber washer, can so add photos of that too, and of the head tube from top and bottom.
 
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Mralexrides

Mralexrides

Active Member
Ok so the bottom bearing was upside down and I cleaned and regressed everything. And attached pics of said bearings( you can see both are same size. And rubber thing and finished fitting. ( Still loose) not sure where rubber washer goes. Is that gap on bottom near wheel normal? Thanks.
 

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OP
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Mralexrides

Mralexrides

Active Member
Are the bearings supposed to be press fitted onto the head tube?
ETA
Photos of the bearings on their own would be helpful. Also in your OP you mentioned a rubber washer, can so add photos of that too, and of the head tube from top and bottom.
see above post the bearings do fit snug into the head tube from bottom and top but it doesn't click in snug on its own like the top does. With all the grease it held in long enough to lower the forks into the head tube. Still unsure where rubber thing goes.
 

fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
Gap at bottom is normal. Rubber or plastic - possibly goes up top and fits inside the first 'shaped' spacer (the big one).

They aren't always super snug. That's why they are 'tapered' to press against the head tube recess, and then sit tight. Always lots of grease to hold in place. Bearings are also tapered on the inside edge too, so the crown race presses against the inner edge, then the top pre-load washer takes up the slack on the top bearing.

Double check both are identical as some are 36/36 degrees taper, others 36/46 Either way it should tighten up ok - remember not to tighten the pinch bolts on the stem much until the top bolt takes out slack (bounce front wheel - get a knock, quarter turn, try again, until knock goes).
 
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Mralexrides

Mralexrides

Active Member
I did all this but still some play and top cap is quite tight as tight as I'm comfortable with. Think maybe the rubber thing is I wrong place I put it down first in top tube before I put bearing in. Where do you suggest I put it.
 

fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
Try it with it out. all I can think is it's a weather seal. You are making sure the pinch bolts on the stem aren't bolted. You shouldn't need the top cap tight at all when adjusting. Something is stopping it nipping up. You've got the split washer in the correct way down, with the taper facing down, flat top.
 
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Mralexrides

Mralexrides

Active Member
I notice both those bearings are black inside. One of mine is orange inside so maybe the black rubber thing goes inside?
 
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Mralexrides

Mralexrides

Active Member
Yeah everything else is set right I'm sure.will remove rubber thing in a min see if it helps. I think it might be due to the bung screw thing sliding up someone mentioned. As even when super tight spacers are easily moved and steering is fine. Just don't want to ride with wobbly headset as I'll get the ring of death on carbon fork.
 
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