Just got back from a leisurely trip along the Brittany coast between St Malo and Roscoff. It's definitely whetted by appetite to go back and see more and I was wondering whether anyone had any tips to pass on. But I thought to get the ball rolling I'd pass on what tips from my own experience.
Routes
Circuit Touristique de la Vallé de la Rance
South of St Malo I came across the Circuit Touristique de la Vallée de la Rance - a signposted route that runs along the two sides of the Rance estuary. It's a quiet route that crosses the Rance over the old bridge by the modern Pont Chateubriand. It's a worthwhile alternative if you're headed towards Dinan or simply want to avoid crossing by the Barrage de la Rance. The route picks up the village of St Suliac which is officially one of plus beaux in France, and well, it does what it says on the can.
Coming over the bridge you can either head north towards Dinard or south towards Trehan to pick up the voie verte along the river bank into the port of Dinan (although it looks like you could pick up the towpath earlier).
The map is taken from a brochure of 8 circuits touristiques in the Pays de St Michel. You can download the brochure from here.
Circuit Touristique Trégor-Côte d'Ajoncs
Another worthwhile signposted route that includes stretches of country lanes which won't be shown on the Michelin maps. You can pick it up just after crossing the bridge into Tréguier. I did it as a circular day -ride (of about 60 kms) although my advice if you're A-B would be to turn off after Port-Blanc and head along the coast via Trevou-Tréguinec and Trélevern.
You can download a pdf version of the map from here
Lannion-Loquerneau via Le Yaudet
Smashing route along the corniche via Le Yaudet - the village that was, at least according to the Independent, the imaginary setting for Asterix. If you do go that way don't miss the chapel and the restored windmill.
Locquirec Carantec via Primel-Trégastel, Le Dourduff and Morlaix
This is shown own the Michelin maps and signposted into Morlaix. When I did it it was indeed [Private Fraser voice] 'a wild and lonely place'. Lovely run along the river side into and out of Morlaix. Don't miss the Cairn de Barnenez.
Voie Verte (V7/Boucle Léonarde) going into Roscoff via St Paul-de-Léon
I have to say that the stretch of the D58 I rode on going towards St Paul-de-Léon was pretty horrible: the V7 (aka Boucle Léonarde) is a much better alternative. If you are going for the ferry it takes you right past the terminal entrance. Best bet is to pick it up just after the Pont de la Corde. The route also takes you through Roscoff and on towards Santec.
(the picture of the map is scanned from the leaflet I picked up at the tourist office - hence it's a bit crumpled).
There are a couple of pointless rough bits by the Pont de la Corde and by the ferry terminal (these can be easily avoided) and for some reason the route through St Pol-de-Léon isn't signposted, but it's still definitely the better option.
Cap Fréhel
The other recommended scenic stretch was around the Cap Fréhel.
Favourite places: Dinan and Roscoff are both well worth a visit. Also Saint Suliac and St Jacut de la Mer.
Favourite tourist sights:
- the chapel in Kermaria-an-Isquit - chapel with frescoes of a Danse Macabre;
- the Abbé de Beauport (near Paimpol) - get the wallet out and pay to get into the abbey itself. the gardens with their cider apple trees are a great place for a discreet picnic lunch;
- the Chateau de La Roche near Pontrieux - chateau/castle high on a bluff overlooking the Trieux. Brilliant gardens laid out after the 1987 storms - full of interesting water features;
- chapel in Le Yaudet. Little retable of the Virgin Mary - but with a homely twist, as she's in bed under a lacy white counterpane.
- the Cairn de Barnenez. 6,000 years old - meaning that it (IIRC) predates the pyramids by a thousand years. Unmissable;
- the Maison des Johnnies. I remember the onion sellers in Monty Python - this is a maison (they don't like the word museum) about the thousands of Bretons who got on their bikes to sell onions all over the UK (and a few still do).
Most moving sight probably the mur des disparus en mer - a wall listing the ships lost at sea while fishing off Iceland. But it's also difficult to forget the various memorials to members of the resistance and civilians shot in reprisals along the route.
Favourite campsites:
Camping Municipal de Cruckin (near Paimpol)
Camping Municipal des Sables d'Or Les Pins
Camping Municipal Beg Ar vilin (near Plougrescant)
Camping les Madières (Pordic near Binic)
Camping de la Baie de Térenez (near the Cairn de Barnenenz)
Camping Ar Treguer (St Paul-de-Léon)
Best meal: a toss-up between:
- oysters from the market stalls in Cancale overlooking the oyster farm (3.80 euros for a dozen really good oysters - plus a euro for opening and the lemon). The next door restaurant also sells white wine by the beaker - but for 3.20 a time;
- stumbling into the village bar-restaurant in Plougasnou on a horrible wet grey day. I had the menu ouvrier (not that there was much choice). three courses plus coffee for 11€. Main course was paupiette de veau with petit pois which looked a lot like faggots and peas to me - but boy did it hit the spot.
Best drink: didn't get to try any Breton whisky but the beer and cider was good - most interesting beer was the 'Rosko' a stout (from Roscoff of course).
Best local treat with an unpronounceable name: Kouign Amann. Delicious cake made with butter (pronounced 'queen aman').
Routes
Circuit Touristique de la Vallé de la Rance
South of St Malo I came across the Circuit Touristique de la Vallée de la Rance - a signposted route that runs along the two sides of the Rance estuary. It's a quiet route that crosses the Rance over the old bridge by the modern Pont Chateubriand. It's a worthwhile alternative if you're headed towards Dinan or simply want to avoid crossing by the Barrage de la Rance. The route picks up the village of St Suliac which is officially one of plus beaux in France, and well, it does what it says on the can.
Coming over the bridge you can either head north towards Dinard or south towards Trehan to pick up the voie verte along the river bank into the port of Dinan (although it looks like you could pick up the towpath earlier).
The map is taken from a brochure of 8 circuits touristiques in the Pays de St Michel. You can download the brochure from here.
Circuit Touristique Trégor-Côte d'Ajoncs
Another worthwhile signposted route that includes stretches of country lanes which won't be shown on the Michelin maps. You can pick it up just after crossing the bridge into Tréguier. I did it as a circular day -ride (of about 60 kms) although my advice if you're A-B would be to turn off after Port-Blanc and head along the coast via Trevou-Tréguinec and Trélevern.
You can download a pdf version of the map from here
Lannion-Loquerneau via Le Yaudet
Smashing route along the corniche via Le Yaudet - the village that was, at least according to the Independent, the imaginary setting for Asterix. If you do go that way don't miss the chapel and the restored windmill.
Locquirec Carantec via Primel-Trégastel, Le Dourduff and Morlaix
This is shown own the Michelin maps and signposted into Morlaix. When I did it it was indeed [Private Fraser voice] 'a wild and lonely place'. Lovely run along the river side into and out of Morlaix. Don't miss the Cairn de Barnenez.
Voie Verte (V7/Boucle Léonarde) going into Roscoff via St Paul-de-Léon
I have to say that the stretch of the D58 I rode on going towards St Paul-de-Léon was pretty horrible: the V7 (aka Boucle Léonarde) is a much better alternative. If you are going for the ferry it takes you right past the terminal entrance. Best bet is to pick it up just after the Pont de la Corde. The route also takes you through Roscoff and on towards Santec.
(the picture of the map is scanned from the leaflet I picked up at the tourist office - hence it's a bit crumpled).
There are a couple of pointless rough bits by the Pont de la Corde and by the ferry terminal (these can be easily avoided) and for some reason the route through St Pol-de-Léon isn't signposted, but it's still definitely the better option.
Cap Fréhel
The other recommended scenic stretch was around the Cap Fréhel.
Favourite places: Dinan and Roscoff are both well worth a visit. Also Saint Suliac and St Jacut de la Mer.
Favourite tourist sights:
- the chapel in Kermaria-an-Isquit - chapel with frescoes of a Danse Macabre;
- the Abbé de Beauport (near Paimpol) - get the wallet out and pay to get into the abbey itself. the gardens with their cider apple trees are a great place for a discreet picnic lunch;
- the Chateau de La Roche near Pontrieux - chateau/castle high on a bluff overlooking the Trieux. Brilliant gardens laid out after the 1987 storms - full of interesting water features;
- chapel in Le Yaudet. Little retable of the Virgin Mary - but with a homely twist, as she's in bed under a lacy white counterpane.
- the Cairn de Barnenez. 6,000 years old - meaning that it (IIRC) predates the pyramids by a thousand years. Unmissable;
- the Maison des Johnnies. I remember the onion sellers in Monty Python - this is a maison (they don't like the word museum) about the thousands of Bretons who got on their bikes to sell onions all over the UK (and a few still do).
Most moving sight probably the mur des disparus en mer - a wall listing the ships lost at sea while fishing off Iceland. But it's also difficult to forget the various memorials to members of the resistance and civilians shot in reprisals along the route.
Favourite campsites:
Camping Municipal de Cruckin (near Paimpol)
Camping Municipal des Sables d'Or Les Pins
Camping Municipal Beg Ar vilin (near Plougrescant)
Camping les Madières (Pordic near Binic)
Camping de la Baie de Térenez (near the Cairn de Barnenenz)
Camping Ar Treguer (St Paul-de-Léon)
Best meal: a toss-up between:
- oysters from the market stalls in Cancale overlooking the oyster farm (3.80 euros for a dozen really good oysters - plus a euro for opening and the lemon). The next door restaurant also sells white wine by the beaker - but for 3.20 a time;
- stumbling into the village bar-restaurant in Plougasnou on a horrible wet grey day. I had the menu ouvrier (not that there was much choice). three courses plus coffee for 11€. Main course was paupiette de veau with petit pois which looked a lot like faggots and peas to me - but boy did it hit the spot.
Best drink: didn't get to try any Breton whisky but the beer and cider was good - most interesting beer was the 'Rosko' a stout (from Roscoff of course).
Best local treat with an unpronounceable name: Kouign Amann. Delicious cake made with butter (pronounced 'queen aman').
