Brompton handlebar heights?

[simon.r]

Thanks Simon. I like the picture with the black bars, although - looking at various places on the inter web - I think the stem and bit below (term?) is different in that the stem of the S type has a bit more reach as being curved. The bit below (term??) won't matter as using the bars you show can be moved forward/backward to suit. The issue then is whether the cables need to be replaced (probably) and if that's the case would cost (a set is £78 or so) unless they can be replaced with non-OME items. Did you change cables? Martin

I didn’t replace the cables, as I changed to a lower bar. There’s a bit more slack, but not a significant amount.

I guess whether you need to change the cables or not depends how much higher the bars you want to fit are. You may get away with a slight increase in height with the existing cables.

As far as I can see the cables are standard, but I’ve not looked at them in detail - can anyone confirm this?

Edit - my Brompton is the 2017 model. I *think* the stem on the 2017 M and S types are the same, but a bit of Googling suggests they may have been different prior to the current model?

 

[mheuter]

Just another thought - just looking at my Brompton in 'park' position (again, S-type) - cables would not be long enough to support e.g. MTB bars as Simon.r suggests. If I was to use the bars in your link, how much space do these give you for all the controls and grips? I have Ergon grips fitted which my be slightly longer than the original foam things on a Brompton. thanks, Martin

 

[Kell]

Hi, I have an S-type Brompton and use the telescopic seat post (inside e.g. 34"). Generally speaking this is ok BUT I have wondered a few times whether to convert to an M model (8.9cm height difference) or find an aftermarket handlebar (using probably an MTB bar and cut to size, as long as grips/controls fit). Questions are - if I convert to M type do I need a different stem (I think I know the answer)? Any idea what a stem costs (for some reason I can't find a website that answers the question, challenge also is that my bike is raw lacquer ... Next question, if I was to keep the existing stem and look for a 30-40 mm rise MTB handlebar, has anyone done this and where would they have sourced the right one to accommodate controls? Thanks for your help, Martin

Hi Martin.

If yours is the older S type bike and you simply put M bars on it, you'd end up with something really high - from the image I posted earlier in the thread, the overall height of the S type clamp is the same (as near as dammit) to the height of the H type.

This in itself is not a problem when riding - other than it's really high - but would definitely require longer H type cables. The big problem is when folding as the bars would then hit the ground and the bike wouldn't fold all the way. The H type gets around this as the hinge is higher up the stem, so less stem drops away and has to fold (if that makes sense).

What I did - and I suspect this is where you're heading - is use some low-rise MTB bars, which I cut down in size a little. And added bar ends and ergonomic grips.

This is what I started with.

This is what I ended up with.

Folded.

As you can see in the first 'after' pic, my problem was that the cables were a little too long. I eventually got around to shortening them, but it worked perfectly. However, the reason I did it this way rather than starting with a S type was because I was concerned about the fold, and the cables.

 

[mheuter]

HI Kell, although I am working the other way 'round that's helpful. I talked to Evans in Manchester about the cable/sleeve set I'd need if I raised the bar with e.g. an MTB and that defeated them (over the phone that was). So I've booked in for Tuesday pm so that they can fathom what on earth I am trying to achieve and what cables I need (I am pretty sure I need new cables, possibly the H type cables, an MTB bar with as much rise as I can get away with and then guesstimate how much I'd have to hack off to be able to fold etc. Depending on how much they are going to charge me for labour I might just be lazy and ask them to do it (rather than me walking away with the bits and locking myself into a dark room and sort it out myself). Thanks for the pics!!!

 

[Kell]

I quite happily call myself a mechanical retard, but I managed it. It was really only the internal hub cable that was a PITA because (if memory serves) the shifter uses a 2mm allen bolt and most kits only go down to 2.5mm.

Another excellent piece of thinking by Brompton - that the right hand shifter opens with a 2.5mm allen key and the left one opens with a 2mm.

 

[berlinonaut]

Hi, I have an S-type Brompton (...) if I convert to M type do I need a different stem (I think I know the answer)? Any idea what a stem costs (for some reason I can't find a website that answers the question, challenge also is that my bike is raw lacquer ... Next question, if I was to keep the existing stem and look for a 30-40 mm rise MTB handlebar, has anyone done this and where would they have sourced the right one to accommodate controls? Thanks for your help, Martin

You'd definitively need a new stem to convert to M. You could mount an M bar to an S stem but you would not be able to fold the bike any more then, making this approach a bit useless. A new stem is about 200€ (plus bars and cables), making this expensive plus - depending from the country you are living in - they won't sell it to you but only fit it in their workshop (i.e. Brompton policy for the uk, has changed relatively recently). Looking for a used M-stem in raw laquer would be a bit of a quest therefor I'd recommend just swapping the bars for aftermarket ones. The maximum raise that would fit to an S-stem is 8-10 cm, depending from the width of the bars and if you have a rack or not. The stock bars are 53cm wide. Aftermarket bars are usually wider and can be cut to size as you like them. You would however need bars with a steep raise near the middle to leave a reasonable amount of flat space for grips, brake levers and shifters if you cut them down to Brompton standards and bars like that are not easy to find. Going to something like 56cm width makes it easier, being happy with less than the maximum possible raise does the same.
If you have no rack the maximum raise is 8 cm at 56 cm width of the bar. Been there, done that. If you have a rack with easywheels you can go for 10 cm raise at 56 cm. The Brompton M is about 9cm higher than the S, thus you end up in the same ballpark as the M w/o spending the money for a new stem.
You'll need longer cables if you raise more than maybe 2,5 cm but you can use aftermarket ones, being a bit cheaper. I'd recommend using jagwires as it really makes a difference (they are factory fitted as well since roughly ten years ago). For the 2-speed shifter the easiest is to get a cable for the H-model and cut it down as you need it. Take your time as correct cable length is critical on a Brompton and the wrong length can cause issues, some ob them not too obvious.
I got my riser bars via ebay from a seller in Germany - the brand name is "Kepu" and the model is "KP-606". Probably some asian stuff that can be found on taobao or such as well and possibly under a bunch of different names and brands (never bothered to look).The good thing about those is that they have a high as well as a steep rise (which is hard to find in combination) - I can recommend them.