Butchering a Brooks

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Edgy Dee

Cranky Old Guy
Location
Scotland
In 2008 I cycled JoGLE, over 900 miles, and experienced no bottom issues. "So what!" I hear you cry. The point is that I didn't know what I was doing, I had no proper cycling gear, and I was riding 80-90 miles a day; but I was riding a Brooks B17.

In 2016 I cycled 250 miles in two days, not on a Brooks, and on Day 2 my posterior suffered. In 2017 I did 200 miles in a day, back on the Brooks - again no issues.

I'm planning a 10-years-on rematch with the End-to-End, but this time going the other way, south to north - LEJoG. The thing is, my cycling has come a long way in those ten years. When I set off from John o'Groats in 2008 I assumed a very upright position on the bike. By the time I got to Land's End I was permanently on the drops as I battled into the prevailing sou'westerlies. Since then my riding position has got steadily lower. The B17 is just the wrong shape for an aggressive posture. So I decided for this trip to go instead for a B17 Imperial Narrow (the one with the cut-out), and butcher it in the traditional fashion.

Here are the steps:
1. Remove the Brooks nameplate from the back of the saddle.
2. Trim back the leather flush with the edge of the cantle, and with nice flowing curves to create two flaps that can be folded under. I did this with a Stanley knife.
3. Remove the bag loops with a hacksaw. Finish the steel with a file, and the leather with fine sandpaper.
4. Soak the flaps in water for 24 hours to soften the leather.
5. Fold the flaps under the saddle and secure with a clamp, then leave to dry.
6. Trim and make holes in the flaps, and tie together with a lace or cable ties. I tried cable ties initially (for strength and durability), but I didn't like the way it looked from side on, so I used one of the laces supplied with the saddle. Tied off with a bow for now, but may revert to a reef knot and trim the excess once I'm sure of the tension needed.
7. Finish the leather off with proofide, olive oil, dubbin, or whatever other concoction you happen to believe in. I used lots of olive oil.

Final weight, for the record, is 505 grams.
 

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:popcorn:
 
OP
OP
Edgy Dee

Edgy Dee

Cranky Old Guy
Location
Scotland
[Groaning...] This project was never about weight - I knew mentioning the weight would be a mistake. I only put that in because I thought someone was bound to ask. The main objective was long distance comfort in a forward position. Aesthetics came second, and cost third. The saddle cost me £50, second hand but unused. A new swallow costs c£110, and I have the added benefit of the cut-out. (If that Ebay one finishes at £30 I'll be astonished, especially now it's been flagged here - lucky seller!)

Some useful links about the tradition of Brooks butchering:
http://www.classiclightweights.co.uk/components/brooks-blocking.html
http://davesbikeblog.squarespace.com/blog/2008/8/11/my-brooks-saddle-butchered-but-not-blocked.html
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage/1119819-blocking-butchering-brooks.html?styleid=6
http://dekter.net/misc/brooks.html

The bag-loopist controversy probably needs a whole new thread.
 
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raleighnut

Legendary Member
[Groaning...] This project was never about weight - I knew mentioning the weight would be a mistake. I only put that in because I thought someone was bound to ask. The main objective was long distance comfort in a forward position. Aesthetics came second, and cost third. The saddle cost me £50, second hand but unused. A new swallow costs c£110, and I have the added benefit of the cut-out. (If that Ebay one finishes at £30 I'll be astonished, especially now it's been flagged here - lucky seller!)

Some useful links about the tradition of Brooks butchering:
http://www.classiclightweights.co.uk/components/brooks-blocking.html
http://davesbikeblog.squarespace.com/blog/2008/8/11/my-brooks-saddle-butchered-but-not-blocked.html
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage/1119819-blocking-butchering-brooks.html?styleid=6
http://dekter.net/misc/brooks.html

The bag-loopist controversy probably needs a whole new thread.
And that's the 'cheap' Swallow without the stitching on the bottom edge,,

P1000514.jpg

Like my 'posh' one has (2004 Ltd Edition Titanium)

DSCN0134.JPG


EDIT - OMG the picture of the standard one is a link to @velovoice 's blog, I'm not stalking you, honest.
 
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raleighnut

Legendary Member
It reminded me of a factory Brooks, but I couldn't think which one.

The OP makes a good case for having a Swallow-shaped saddle, and he's done a good job of adapting his B17.
You couldn't do it to a B17 (well you could but it'd be really weird) whereas the Narrow version has a 'cantle plate' of similar width to the swallow (maybe even the same)
 

raleighnut

Legendary Member
There might be people for whom a wider swallow could work.
I think it'd lead to 'chafing' where you've cut the leather away if doing it to a B17 as they're wider, if you look a 'butchering' one then also look at 'blocking' a Brooks, this is where the 'cantle plate' is bent giving a more rounded profile to the top and also narrowing the saddle somewhat. Mind you I don't understand the 'reverence' that the B17 is held in, of my 6 it is the least comfy but mine is the B17 Special (with Copper rivets) so may be slightly different (but I don't think so)

My most 'comfy' Brooks is my B17n closely followed by the B5n (same shape but a 'dimpled' top) dating from the late 60s early 70s (and given to me by John the proprietor of Bob Warner cycles)
 
OP
OP
Edgy Dee

Edgy Dee

Cranky Old Guy
Location
Scotland
You couldn't do it to a B17 (well you could but it'd be really weird) whereas the Narrow version has a 'cantle plate' of similar width to the swallow (maybe even the same)
Check out the Classic Lightweights link. The companion hack to butchering is blocking, which involves setting about the leather and metalwork with a hammer - or even replacing the cantle plate completely apparently! The lengths!
 
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