Campagnolo Zonda on a 2014 Giant Defy 1 (1mm of play?)

[Koenigsleiten]

Hi have just bought a pair of Campagnolo Zonda's (Shimano hub) for my Giant Defy and have mounted them to the bike with an Ultegra 6700 11-28 casette. Love the wheels, they look great and ride extremely smooth and are c.350 grams lighter than the original wheels I had.

The only thing that gets me is, there is about 1mm of play in the rear wheel when you move it side to side with your hand. It is hardly noticeable but definitely there. The front wheel is absolutely solid with no play at all. My old wheels also did not move at all. Is this normal? Has anyone else experienced this with a pair of Zonda's?

 

[Yellow Saddle]

Adjust the cones.

 

[Oldbloke]

My Zondas were perfect out of the box. As above, tighten the cones.

 

[raleighnut]

If you've got to adjust them I'd take the opportunity to whack a bit more grease in there.

 

[Koenigsleiten]

Thanks for the tips. Will go ahead and adjust the cones, although given the wheels are only two days old it seems to be a bit early for maintenance

 

[Koenigsleiten]

Quick adjustment to the Cone / Cup movement and it is all better now!

http://www.campagnolo.com/media/fil...al_wheels_adjustment_hub Campagnolo_12-12.pdf

Easy peasy!

 

[Graeme_FK]

It's best to do the cone adjustment with the wheel in the bike and the QR done up - hence (in part) the reason for the design of the adjustment mechanism.Just undo the binder bolt on the adjuster collar, tighten the adjuster collar (it turns clockwise around the spindle to tighten) until you have *only just* eliminated the play, and retighten the binder bolt - that's it.

This way you don't have to judge how much a "slight lateral movement" in the bearing should be with the wheel out of the bike, to compensate for the compression that the QR will put on the axle and therefore the bearings, because that compression will already be there.

You don't need extra grease in the bearing provided you don't make a habit of aggressive hose or jet-washing or putting the bike away wet ... bear in mind though that this is a racing wheel, designed to be used in scenarios where a certain level of care is expected in how it is used and maintained. The identical bearing assembly is used in Eurus, and with some small changes in materials, mainly, in Shamal, Bora, Hyperon etc ... very much "top end" wheels.

Where riders are careful about ingress of water, pretty much any bearing can actually just be run on an oil film - the only reason grease is used at all is to maintain a corrosion-resistant coating on steel balls and bearing surfaces in a convenient fashion. In fact on the top end Campagnolo wheels where non-rusting materials are used in the wheel bearing assembly, they are lubricated only with mineral oil.

 

[Gains84]

Sorry to half hi-jack this thread but it's the most recent Zonda related one.

I put my new Zondas on the other night and managed to strip the threads on the lockring. They are the shimano hub version with an ultegra 11speed cassette (11-25) on - am I right in thinking they still use a shimano lockring or is the inner thread of the hub the campag version? Want to avoid stripping the replacement ring I've ordered too if possible!

Thanks in advance folks.

 

[Graeme_FK]

Hi Gains84, The cassette body takes the Shimano lockring.

 

[Gains84]

Hi Gains84, The cassette body takes the Shimano lockring.

Thanks for the quick reply mate. I didn't realise there were so many different sizes/types options! Lol

 

[Graeme_FK]

Thanks for the quick reply mate. I didn't realise there were so many different sizes/types options! Lol

Yes, it can be a headache.

Historically, Campagnolo and Shimano have used differing threads initially because of simple market differentiation (always remembering that when cassette hubs with lockrings appeared, Shimano were not the market behemoth that they are today).

Later, the difference was perpetuated because the splines that Campagnolo use for their 9, 10 and 11s cassettes (bearing in mind Campagnolo were "first" to each of these innovations, something that is often forgotten) are much deeper than Shimano used, up until the introduction of Dura Ace 10s cassettes with alloy sprocket carriers.

Campagnolo's 9/10/11s compatible body was from the outset alloy (lighter), so requiring the deep splines to correctly support the sprockets on the softer-than-steel alloy of the cassette body. Hence, the thread that the lockring had to be smaller diameter. Campagnolo at one time did not include lockrings with their cassettes, selling them instead with the hub or wheel set and as a separate spare part, where Shimano have always (as far as I can remember, anyway) included the lock ring.

SRAM have always followed the Shimano lead in this respect as they adopted Shimano's spline pattern (which resulted in a very expensive legal battle with Shimano back in 2004, which SRAM eventually won) from the outset.

To add confusion, 11T top sprockets appeared during the evolution of cassettes so 11T compatible lockrings then had to be introduced by some manufacturers, to correctly support an 11T sprocket but not foul the inner edge of the chain as it wrapped around the sprocket ...