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Cassette Bearing Newbie

Discussion in 'Bicycle Mechanics and Repairs' started by Ed no-more-lemons, 8 Mar 2017.

  1. Ed no-more-lemons

    Ed no-more-lemons Well-Known Member

    Location:
    The Burbs
    Still got a bit more rim movement than I would like. I had a job getting the spring pauls back inside the hub and noticed that the third one was missing so presumably this is the cause. I think that I have got the cones tightened about right.


    20170308_122319(1).jpg 20170308_122333.jpg 20170308_122409.jpg t Looking inside the hub with a screwdriver, I should think a clean and regrease, may be a bit more awkward getting at the races than if it was a freewheel. Also am I right in thinking that the axle can be separated from the freehub with a pedal spanner on the locking nut and a allen key in the cone on that side?
     
  2. OP
    OP
    Ed no-more-lemons

    Ed no-more-lemons Well-Known Member

    Location:
    The Burbs
    Moved on to the front hub, which is made by Malliard. Looks like the dust covers do not lever off or might they be on a thread?
     
  3. gbb

    gbb Legendary Member

    Location:
    Peterborough
    I've had older hubs where the dust covers/Shields are actually fixed (or stuck) to the cone...as in a one piece unit.
     
  4. OP
    OP
    Ed no-more-lemons

    Ed no-more-lemons Well-Known Member

    Location:
    The Burbs
    Can anyone give me an idea about the differnet spline patterns available for these new fangled cassettes?

    As it would be nice to change some of the sprockets to ones with a smaller number of teeth, yes I am that lazy. I was thinking that the Shimano ones would be of a different pattern than the Compagnolo ones I have on the freehub at the moment.
     
  5. Ajax Bay

    Ajax Bay Über Member

    Location:
    East Devon
    Most (all?) cassettes are either 'Shimano' spacing or Camapagnolo spacing. They are not the same and the splines are different too. Most Shimano cassettes also have several of the sprockets pinned together, which can frustrate customisation, whereas the C ones are separate with a spacer between each.
    You also have to beware of interface between individual sprockets which have ramps designed in specific relative positions to improve shifting. Sheldon: "To provide the Hyperglide functionality, each sprocket must be designed with regard to the adjacent sprockets."
    Why would exchanging some sprockets for smaller ones be 'lazy'? Personally I would like to get rid of the 11t and maybe the 12t in favour of single tooth increases in the smaller half of the cassette (52t chainwheel still gives me a 108" gear with 52/13). But a 13t small with serrations for lockring is expensive.
     
  6. OP
    OP
    Ed no-more-lemons

    Ed no-more-lemons Well-Known Member

    Location:
    The Burbs
    Thanks for your observations. I meant I was being lazy for not researching the ditterent types of cassettes for myself. My hope for a 12 toothed locking sprocket would be that with the chain on it, the chain would have more clearance from the bottom of the seat stays than it does with the 13 toothed one.

    I had not thought about the Hyperglide functionality and hopefully as my shifting is non indexed it would not be that much of an issue.