Cassette Lock Ring Stuck

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Location
Loch side.
Any sort of lever attached to the lockring remover (if it is the type with built-in handle) usually ends up ruining the tool. This is because the lever is made from mild steel and either bends or, works loose on the nut itself.

The way around a real bad case like this is to use on non-handled nut, find a socket that fits (1/2 inch for ParkTool, 26mm for the metric world) and take the wheel, chainwhip and tools to a car tyre fitment place. They will have an air impact wrench there. That thing gets it off so quickly you won't believe it.

On your way out, find someone to with a large torque wrench to give you a feel of 40NM with the lever THE SAME LENGTH AS THAT OF YOUR TOOL.
 
OP
OP
Rooster1

Rooster1

I was right about that saddle
I tried the bench route briefly but gave up, I may give that a second try.
 

T4tomo

Legendary Member
Hand underneath, pulling chainwhip towards my chest.
But I guess the force imparted on the lock ring is limited by the leverage on the chain whip, whereas with a freewheel it's the force you can put on the wheel/tyre combo.

To Ben honest a lock ring shouldn't stick like a freewheel often does as a freewheel tightens whilst riding whereas a lock ring doesn't.
That said I'm fully aware this one has stuck!
 

Milkfloat

An Peanut
Location
Midlands
But I guess the force imparted on the lock ring is limited by the leverage on the chain whip, whereas with a freewheel it's the force you can put on the wheel/tyre combo.

Agreed, but somehow it seems easier and works better for me than having the whole wheel vertical.
 

boydj

Legendary Member
Location
Paisley
So how do you stop the freehub doing it's job (i.e. freewheeling) when you turn the wheel ?

That's what the chainwhip is for. Wrap it on the cogs below the wheel and hold it through the spokes as somebody else has already indicated above. Cogs and wheel turn together while the lockring is held by the tool in the vice and the leverage achieved makes the job easy.
 

raleighnut

Legendary Member
That's what the chainwhip is for. Wrap it on the cogs below the wheel and hold it through the spokes as somebody else has already indicated above. Cogs and wheel turn together while the lockring is held by the tool in the vice and the leverage achieved makes the job easy.
Seems a bit of a faff, I lean over the top of the wheel with the wheel against my knees, position the chain whip and lockring tools at 10 and 2 'o'clock and just push down on both.
 

mmmmartin

Random geezer
Get a camping gas stove, preferably one using a canister containing propane and butane rather than the blue canisters with only butane. Fire it up. Hold the flame on the lock ring for several minutes (the oil will burn off and thus cause a flame, don't panic). Allow to cool for several minutes. Try to remove locking ring. If not successful, repeat. Ditto.
By adding heat you are expanding the metal, and breaking that bond between metals.
(This should also work with recalcitrant pedals.)
If unsuccessful, do the "friendly garage wheel removal trick" but be aware the forces needed to be successful might damage the wheel.
Remember to return and let us know.
 
Location
Loch side.
I tried the bench route briefly but gave up, I may give that a second try.
Unless your bench is extremely sturdy and the vice bolted through the solid bench, you can ruin the bench. One of our mechanics did that and eventually we had a special bench with big vice and 12mm bolts set up for such wheels.

Try the percussion drive like I described. You'll be amazed at how lightly you have to hold the chainwhip for it to work. Percussion/impact drives don't work by brute force and protect all and sundry and their tools for hernias, bent tools stripped hexes etc etc.
 

Psycolist

NINJA BYKALIST
Location
North Essex
I've never got the hang of a chain whip. I have an old chain anchored with a 6 inch screw to the bottom of the doorframe of my shed. Stand the wheel with the rim on the floor and pushed tight to the door frame, gear block an the right, then drape the chain over the biggest gear, support the wheel with 1 hand and give the spanner a turn to take up the slack in the chain, a good firm pull towards yourself, & Roberts y'fathers brother. May be worth a try ?
 

Tom B

Guru
Location
Lancashire
I've never got the hang of a chain whip. I have an old chain anchored with a 6 inch screw to the bottom of the doorframe of my shed. Stand the wheel with the rim on the floor and pushed tight to the door frame.. ?

Pretty much what he said except I have mine fixed to the patio floor via a rawl plug... Thinking about it again a wall might be even better. Even the most ignorant lock rings come off with this method, my fingers remain intact and the chain whip a mystery to me, in the box.

I have the nut type ring key force is applied with a 24" knuckle bar. Minimal swearing required...

Try more swearing.

Normally I'd use a rattle gun on stuff like this but it just doesn't feel right but yellow saddle is usually bang on with the theory and experience. So I wouldn't doubt him.
 
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