Chain Checker
- Thread starter old bell
- Start date
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snorri
Legendary Member
- Location
- East coast, up a bit.
Wear can be measured with a steel rule, but the Park tool at less than £10 does the job quickly, cleanly and adequately for me.
Davidc
Guru
- Location
- Somerset UK
All should work. I bought the Park tools one for about £9 because it looked better made than the cheaper ones.
Grumble - it's not getting enough use 'cos I'm not getting enough riding opportunities at present - grumble.
Grumble - it's not getting enough use 'cos I'm not getting enough riding opportunities at present - grumble.
YahudaMoon
Über Member
The £50 one is the only one thats correct
http://www.cyclechat.net/threads/unior-chain-wear-checker.99335/#post-1796255
http://www.cyclechat.net/threads/unior-chain-wear-checker.99335/#post-1796255
YahudaMoon
Über Member
PJ79LIZARD
Über Member
- Location
- WEST MIDLANDS
Park tool, when it gets to .75 change it job done!
andrew_s
Legendary Member
- Location
- Gloucester
The £50 Shimano checker is the only one that's accurate. All the others are pessimistic to some extent, showing more than the true stretch. In some cases an unused chain can show as in need of changing.
I'd suggest using a cheap checker as a quick "still OK" indicator, and once it shows replacement is required base the decision to replace on a proper check with a ruler (1/8" over 12" = 1%).
The error happens because most checkers measure between a roller pushed to the left and a roller pushed to the right. This is more than the distance between chain pins by an amount that depends on how loose the roller is on the bushing (as well as the size of the roller). Some chains have tighter-fitting rollers than others, so whoever makes the checker has to make a guess. It's the change in pin to pin distance that is the critical factor.
I'd suggest using a cheap checker as a quick "still OK" indicator, and once it shows replacement is required base the decision to replace on a proper check with a ruler (1/8" over 12" = 1%).
The error happens because most checkers measure between a roller pushed to the left and a roller pushed to the right. This is more than the distance between chain pins by an amount that depends on how loose the roller is on the bushing (as well as the size of the roller). Some chains have tighter-fitting rollers than others, so whoever makes the checker has to make a guess. It's the change in pin to pin distance that is the critical factor.
Holdsworth
Guru
- Location
- Crewe, Cheshire
I measured my chain last night with a steel measuring tape, the chain shows as 12 1/8" over 12 links so I have a bought a new cassette (the most-used teeth are looking a little worn) and a new chain in anticipation of having a crack at swapping it out next week. I also have a tool kit on its way from Edinburgh Bicycle that contains the tools that will allow me to attempt this myself, my first time changing a cassette but I am sure I'll be fine. 
I am sure that the chain and sprockets have reached the point of needing a change going by my own reckoning due to the change in shape of the cassette teeth and evident stretch in the chain but the chap at LBS thinks otherwise going by the amount the chain moves when pulled off of the big chain ring. Anyway after 2000 miles since new without a change it is due now and has done well in my opinion.
I am sure that the chain and sprockets have reached the point of needing a change going by my own reckoning due to the change in shape of the cassette teeth and evident stretch in the chain but the chap at LBS thinks otherwise going by the amount the chain moves when pulled off of the big chain ring. Anyway after 2000 miles since new without a change it is due now and has done well in my opinion.
Matthew_T
"Young and Ex-whippet"
- Location
- Prestatyn, North Wales
My bike has done easily 10,000 miles since new and I havent changed any of the important bits (I have ordered a new chain and cassette as they have both worn down now). I have gone through about 4 sets of tires, easily 30 innertubes, 2 sets of bar tape, 2 brake pads, 4 cables, 2 bar end plugs, and one seat.
I do however urgently need a new rear wheel. I have a worrying amount of play in the current one.
Holdsworth
Guru
- Location
- Crewe, Cheshire
Really? 10,000 miles!!! That seems like an awfully long time to go without a chain change to me, you must have kept it in tip-top condition over that time. How long has it taken you to rack up that mileage? My 2000 miles that I have done over the past 10 1/2 months pales in comparison. I wonder why my chain has lasted such a short amount of time and whether or not it is typical for one to wear out after 2k?
Matthew_T
"Young and Ex-whippet"
- Location
- Prestatyn, North Wales
It is 4 years old.
However, I have checked the wear and it seems that where the pin is supposed to be close to the 12inch mark, it is at the 12.6inch mark. I am replacing both the chain and cassette now though.
potsy
Rambler
- Location
- My Armchair
You may also need new chainrings Matthew, sounds like a lot of stretch on there.
Jdratcliffe
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Redhill, Surrey
nice one currently on 5000 miles ( do 1k miles a month commute) from new and chain looking ok with me park chain checker and cassette looking good though im still one the original tyres ( changing them this month) used one set brake blocks and rims are holding fine :-) can i ask what you ride? and what tyres your gone though 4 sets off?
