Chain keeps popping off!

[l4dva]

Hi Guys,

I haven't given my langster much TLC lately and been riding it quite a bit!

The other day the chain popped off while riding home, I managed to slide it back on but noticed the chain was filthy and was quite slack. Again today the chain popped off twice while riding, so I think this weekend im going to have to give it a bit of a clean / relube and try and put some more tension in the chain.

I've always found it quite difficult to put the rear wheel back on and remove all the slack from the chain, but I can generally get it to an ok level. over time it must of gotten looser and looser to the point where it quite easily pops off.

Anyways I seem to remember seeing some chain tensioner devices that can be used on single speed bikes? are these any good? what would you recommend for my langster frame?

Thanks

 

[l4dva]

single speed

 

[Milkfloat]

I like this video for explaining how to do it.

 

[fossyant]

You just walk the wheel back. Righted one side pull back, tighten and repeat other side.

Don't try this lack of attention to the chain with a fixed though. You'll end up in A&E. Make sure it's clean and tight.

 

[l4dva]

the chain may need replacing. I'll give it a once over tomorrow and check how much it has stretched by.

I'm usually quite good when it comes to maintaining my chain, few months of slacking and i can see why its a bad idea not to keep on top of it!

thanks for your tips and videos!

 

[JimboJames1972]

I replaced my chain a couple of weeks back and noticed a world of difference.

Although it rarely popped off, at the time it was very noisy - an annoying "ticking" at specific points in the pedal rotation and some more pronounced creaks and groans whenever I needed to put more wellie through it. Local bike shop measured a stretch of well over 2mm.

New chain, no noise. No popping off either. Happy days :-)

James

PS - keeping chain tension. I have taken a sanding tool to my rear drop-outs and removed the paint from the areas where the rear axel nuts clamp down. Since then I have noticed that my chain slackens off far, far slower than it used to (before paint removal I was re-tightening every other ride!). My thinking is that the nuts would bite into the paint, but the paint would slip against the metal. Since paint stripping and replacing the chain I have done 400+ miles and have seen no change in tension.

 

[l4dva]

So it looks like my chain has stretched a bit, using a basic ruler method over 6inchs its probably gained a mm or so. It also looks like the chain isn't sitting into the chainring so tightly either as i spin the cranks - I can see gaps.

The chainring looks to be in good shape, the teeth don't look like they are particularly worn. Same with the freewheel. but how would i know if a new chainring or freewheel would be required.

FYI the chain, chainring (48 tooth), and freewheel (16 tooth) where all replaced together about 2 years / 1500 (ish) miles. The chain neglect only started about 500/600 miles ago, before that I used to keep it pretty well maintained.

 

[potsy]

I like this video for explaining how to do it.

Love the bikeman, mad as a box of frogs but knows his stuff

 

[fossyant]

There is a school of thought that having the chainring and exact multiple of the cog leads to greater wear, as the same bits are engaged together repeatedly. Some take this to extremes, looking to have a prime number for both chainring, cog, and chain links. Others dismiss it as nonsense.

That's correct. It's happened with mine. Just have to remember to shuffle the chain around once in a while.

 

[l4dva]

That's correct. It's happened with mine. Just have to remember to shuffle the chain around once in a while.

Really? I'm not so technical with this sort of stuff but this sounds like nonsense to me - each component will be engaged with another component while in use, causing wear to everything involved in the process regardless of being connected to the exact same cog/chain teeth at the same time every 2/3 turns of the pedals - I could be wrong though.

In any case I've had quite a few punctures with my old tyres would of forced me to take the rear wheel off. I would imagine the chain gets a shuffle every now and then anyways just from that.

 

[fossyant]

Really? I'm not so technical with this sort of stuff but this sounds like nonsense to me - each component will be engaged with another component while in use, causing wear to everything involved in the process regardless of being connected to the exact same cog/chain teeth at the same time every 2/3 turns of the pedals - I could be wrong though.

In any case I've had quite a few punctures with my old tyres would of forced me to take the rear wheel off. I would imagine the chain gets a shuffle every now and then anyways just from that.

No it's not. I had 46 x 16 and after a puncture replaced the chain and it ran like a tractor. Stopped and advanced the sprocket one tooth and it was OK. The chain does indeed wear the sprocket on an even's setup.

 

[fossyant]

The wear was more noticeable as I'd not had a puncture in ages (Duranos).

 

[potsy]

Mumbo jumbo, I've had hardly any wear on my even numbered sprocket ..

 

[fossyant]

Mumbo jumbo, I've had hardly any wear on my even numbered sprocket ..

How many miles has it not done !

 

[l4dva]

hmmmm I'm still not convinced. I think i'll just pop down to my lbs and see what they say.

If this is the case id rather go up a gear to 49 tooth chainring now than have to replace it constantly.

But it all sounds a bit coincidencey to me. Both my bikes have the occasional click/noise under load when pushed at the the wrong time/place. And moving your chain along one sprocket would of involved loosening off your wheel/re jigging it etc etc and then putting it all back together. Maybe something wasn't fully in place correctly the first time you put it back together which caused it to "ride like a tractor"?