Chain length too long

[OldShep]

1 link is actually a pair as it is quoted in inches. The chain I purchased was sold as 114 links but going by the Machine head chain length calculator it is quoted in inches or 53 links assuming 50/28 rear. So actually my original post was incorrect in saying it was 54 links. i must have been having a bad day !

I’ve googled Machine head chain length calculator now I didn’t realise how difficult a computer can make a simple task so hard. No wonder you’re confused.
Take your new chain and wrap it over big ring and big sprocket, without passing through derailleur. Pull it tight and note where the two ends meet. Now add 2 links ( or one inch) and that’s your chain length.

 

[keithmac]

2 links is one "top" or plate. A 108 link chain will have 54 tops.

Some chains can have "half links" but I've never had the need to use one (more a motorcycle thing).

I would only ever have one softlink or quick link in a chain personally (excluding emergency repairs).

 

[Tenkaykev]

When I replaced the 50 tooth chainwheel on my Brommie with a 44, the instructions said to remove 2 links. Being new to all this I inadvertently removed 4. It was only when I physically counted the links that I realised a plate equated to two links.
( Removing the two links on a Brommie isn't strictly necessary as the chain tensioner will take up the slack)

 

[Shearwater Missile]

There are two types of KMC quick links, re-useable and once use only. To tell the difference the single use ones have what looks like a double notch in the middle of the plate. Although technically I could re-use them but I won`t as they would be compromised. I feel sure that the quick link is as strong as an ordinary link unless someone says otherwise. Thank you for all the posts, much appreciated.

 

[Shearwater Missile]

Only take out one link.

Others too have also said take out one link which is right.
One link taken out and chain now correct length. Just waiting for new quick link to arrive as I did`nt want to risk using the old one. I managed to get the quick link out without the tool. I just used an odd piece of inner gear cable inserted around the link and twisted the cable around with a pair of pliers until the link opened.
Thank you all for your inputs.

 

[Yellow Saddle]

Others too have also said take out one link which is right.
One link taken out and chain now correct length. Just waiting for new quick link to arrive as I did`nt want to risk using the old one. I managed to get the quick link out without the tool. I just used an odd piece of inner gear cable inserted around the link and twisted the cable around with a pair of pliers until the link opened.
Thank you all for your inputs.

Thanks for the feedback. Folks appreciate it if their advice doesn't just disappear into the ether.

As for the old quicklink. There is no risk in re-using the old one from a safety point of view. In your case, I'd use it. They don't wear to the point of even near failure at all. It is just that they wear enough to ever so slightly damage the cassette. But since it is one link in 116 or so, it means it is only reaching the cassette every two and a half crank strokes. No biggie. Fit it and ride until the other one arrives.

There's no need to manhadle the link with wires and pliers to open it. They can be opened by hand once you realise how they work. I've written about it here before. Search for "squeeze together" and "recess" or "recessed" in conjunction with "chain".

 

[Shearwater Missile]

Thanks for the feedback. Folks appreciate it if their advice doesn't just disappear into the ether.

As for the old quicklink. There is no risk in re-using the old one from a safety point of view. In your case, I'd use it. They don't wear to the point of even near failure at all. It is just that they wear enough to ever so slightly damage the cassette. But since it is one link in 116 or so, it means it is only reaching the cassette every two and a half crank strokes. No biggie. Fit it and ride until the other one arrives.

There's no need to manhadle the link with wires and pliers to open it. They can be opened by hand once you realise how they work. I've written about it here before. Search for "squeeze together" and "recess" or "recessed" in conjunction with "chain".

Thanks for that about the quick link re-use. I was thinking more along the lines of it opening accidentally if say the chain slackened on a bad gear change (not often but) or uneven surface. I tried opening by hand prior to using the cable method. The chain has only done 140 miles since I replaced it so wear would not be an issue as it has not been subjected to wet rides. Perhaps I will fit it then after what you have said. Thank you.

 

[Yellow Saddle]

Thanks for that about the quick link re-use. I was thinking more along the lines of it opening accidentally if say the chain slackened on a bad gear change (not often but) or uneven surface. I tried opening by hand prior to using the cable method. The chain has only done 140 miles since I replaced it so wear would not be an issue as it has not been subjected to wet rides. Perhaps I will fit it then after what you have said. Thank you.

One final thing. They don't open accidentally. That's because they have to be squeezed together and slid apart at the same time.

Over and out.

 

[elpocketo]

this is really simple.Use this equation from park tools website Simple Equation: L = 2 (C) + (F/4 + R/4 + 1) c is chainstay length in inches.
F is biggest chain ring size and R is biggest cog on cassette.This will give you the optimum chain length.Once you calculate this figure remove yr chain from yr bike and lay on the floor.Make sure you keep the quick removal link on it and measure yr chain with a tape measure.Once you compare the difference between length and yr equation result then you can start shortening chain if necessary.Remove one full link from outer plate to outer plate,this is usually two pins less than what u had already.You will know if yr chain is too long anyway as you will beable to see alot of play in the smallest cassette cog and perhaps some chain slippage under force in small cogs.

 

[Ajax Bay]

Take your new chain and wrap it over big ring and big sprocket, without passing through derailleur. Pull it tight and note where the two ends meet. Now add 2 links ( or one inch) and that’s your chain length.

You will know if yr chain is too long anyway as you will beable to see alot of play in the smallest cassette cog and perhaps some chain slippage under force in small cogs.

Do you like @OldShep 's method too, which he shared in March?
Why will running a chain which is too long be the cause of either
+ "a lot of play" (what meant?) in the smallest sprocket
or
+ chain slipping on the smaller sprockets?