Chains, links and hubs

Discussion in 'Bicycle Mechanics and Repairs' started by womblechops, 17 Aug 2012.

  1. womblechops

    womblechops Well-Known Member

    Location:
    Hayes, Kent
    Six years commuting on this bike without a puncture and finally the inevitable happened. Because of the age of the tyres I decided to replace them too, but have Alfine hubs with disks (and mudguards and pannier) so it is not a straightforward task.

    I decided to go the whole hog and give the chain a proper, off the bike, going over (may replace entirely) rather than the usual in-situ clean too.

    Questions:

    1. The chain is a KMC Z Narrow which seems to have some sort of easy remove link that I can't for the life of me work out. One link, on one side only, has an 'O' link which doesn't seem to be bevelled on the inside to push the links together and has no obvious means of sliding off. Easier just to put a link removal tool on another part of the chain?

    2. If the chain doesn't buff up I may just remove it. What is the best for an 8 speed hub gear?

    3. To save this being a problem again, would people think worth spending the extra for some sort of 'quick link' for easy removal? And if so which one (in light of qusetion 2)?

    Many thanks for any help.
     
  2. mrandmrspoves

    mrandmrspoves Middle aged bald git.

    Location:
    Narfuk

    I think I know the kind of link you are describing and they're real pigs to undo ....unless you have the correct pliers. Just type in chain tool pliers on eBay and you will see them - a pair like the BBB ones for appx £6 will do fine. Prior to getting these I previously gave up trying to open the link on a KMC chain and used my chain tool to break it elsewhere.....but with the pliers it really is dead easy. I had tried a pair of needle nose pliers but they did't work.
     
  3. MGmech

    MGmech New Member

    I think you should probably just replace the chain, have you had that on for six years too? I replace mine about once a year, but that's because I'm quite particular about my chain. I'm sure your LBS would measure the wear free of charge .

    This is a good chain; http://tidd.ly/edcbbdd2
    This is a chain tool; http://tidd.ly/4d43d3c8

    Not had a problem using normal pliers on a trick link myself, but you will need a chain tool to trim the new chain to length. Just measure the old one for reference. You might find these guides helpful in removal and fit of new chain;

    http://www.madegood.org/bikes/library/break-a-chain-with-a-chain-tool/
    http://www.madegood.org/bikes/library/connect-a-chain-with-a-chain-tool/
     
  4. OP
    OP
    womblechops

    womblechops Well-Known Member

    Location:
    Hayes, Kent
    Thanks for the advice. After enough faffing with the easy release link I think I bent it so instead took it off with a new chain tool (so easy I don't know why I didn't have one before). And got myself a nice new chain.

    Now I have the old chain off and I have scrubbed the cogs I found that a jockey wheel bearing has rusted so back to the bike shop for me...
     
  5. mrandmrspoves

    mrandmrspoves Middle aged bald git.

    Location:
    Narfuk
    Well you probably made the right choice in changing your chain.....not overly expensive when compared with the cost of knackered chainrings and rear cassette.
     
  6. OP
    OP
    womblechops

    womblechops Well-Known Member

    Location:
    Hayes, Kent
    Just bought a replacement Shimano jockey wheel and found it is 2mm too thick. Bah! Can't find an Alfine one without buying the whole chain tensioner mech!
     
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