Chainstay frame crack on a steel Woodrup frame: advice please

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C R

Guru
Location
Worcester
Wasn't he in High Noon ? :whistle:

No, that was his brother Gary ;)
 
As a point of interest, how would you go about checking a frame for internal corrosion?

There aren't many places where you can see inside the tubes. The seat tube is the most obvious. Inside the bottom bracket would be next but you might need a tiny mirror and a torch to see inside the down tube and chain stays.
 
If anyone is still following this thread I have dropped off the frame at Woodrups for them to fit a new stay. At least I know that it is safely with them. I will spray the frame myself. I was quoted £140 to have the stay replaced.
I might have spent quite a bit getting it up to Yorkshire but it has been combined with a visit to relatives.
The frame is Reynolds 531 Professional so it deserves to be saved plus the parts which came with it were worth a lot more than I paid. It will be a while before I get it back and be able to do anything to it .
 
OP
OP
DCLane

DCLane

Found in the Yorkshire hills ...
The daft bit is that the frame travelled from me to you, then back north to a few miles away.

I'd expect Woodrup to do a good job and there should be an excellent bike eventually.
 
I'm still following your thread.
I'm prepared to wait to see the finished product. :okay:
I might have some Campagnolo bits to fit on it. I think they might be the right period , I'll have to check. The parts which came with the frame have been salvaged. The bottom cup on the headset is a bit worn . I might try to see I can improve it as it has Woodrup stamped on it . The bike when finished won't be doing many miles any way, I believe in bike rotation and I have a few to choose from.
 
The daft bit is that the frame travelled from me to you, then back north to a few miles away.

I'd expect Woodrup to do a good job and there should be an excellent bike eventually.

Yes! It has another 200 miles to go when the fame is finished.
I promised that I would get it repaired and have decided that it was the best way to go. It might turn out to be my most expensive bike in the end but I think it deserves it. It should go well with my Harry Quinn Viking .
 
If you are wondering what happened to this frame you can follow what turned into a saga on Woodrup Split Personality.
I have put my frame back into it's box for the time being. I have had a go at the bottom head race which had about 30 small indentations where the ball bearings had worn. It is a lot better now . I won't be riding the bike much. One good thing about having a few bikes, each one doesn't get a lot of use .
 
If you are wondering what happened to this frame you can follow what turned into a saga on Woodrup Split Personality.
I have put my frame back into it's box for the time being. I have had a go at the bottom head race which had about 30 small indentations where the ball bearings had worn. It is a lot better now . I won't be riding the bike much. One good thing about having a few bikes, each one doesn't get a lot of use .

The indentations you describe are known as 'brinelling'. On a headset race the bearings only move around slightly when steering, and as you mostly ride straight ahead the bearings always return to the same spot, and cause these indentations. I've only seen the issue on the lower race, which is no surprise as it takes the brunt of it in terms of load. If you were to fully rotate the handle bars once in a while, that might disperse the bearings and prevent it happening - easier said than done. Loose bearings may also benefit, as opposed to caged type.

What did you do to make yours 'better now'?
 
The indentations you describe are known as 'brinelling'. On a headset race the bearings only move around slightly when steering, and as you mostly ride straight ahead the bearings always return to the same spot, and cause these indentations. I've only seen the issue on the lower race, which is no surprise as it takes the brunt of it in terms of load. If you were to fully rotate the handle bars once in a while, that might disperse the bearings and prevent it happening - easier said than done. Loose bearings may also benefit, as opposed to caged type.

What did you do to make yours 'better now'?

I used some 120 grit aluminium oxide paper rolled up around a needle file. It is part of the Woodrup bearing set which I want to keep. It should be alright packed full of grease for the amount of miles I will do on it .
 
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