Cheap Vs Expensive

[Lee_M]

that depends on what it is, how much it weighs and also what state it is actually in - ie how much time and efort to prep it and will you end up with a good quality frame at the end

only you know what condition the frame is in and whether its worth it - make a good winter project though

 

[sabian92]

I got the little baby new tires and wheels and a cable, I clean the chain and gears with WD40 every week, The other stuff is just visual. I try to look after her.

Oh Lord.... WD40 is the worst thing to use. I destroyed an entire drivetrain using WD40.

You're far better off using a degreaser (Muc-Off do a good one in a spray can) and some proper lube.

WD40 is a Water Dispersant (i.e. it gets rid of the lubricant).

 

[Peter Armstrong]

ooops!

 

[Lee_M]

although the makers of wd40 do say it is safe to use as a bicycle chain lubricant,

 

[GrasB]

Oh Lord.... WD40 is the worst thing to use. I destroyed an entire drivetrain using WD40.

You're far better off using a degreaser (Muc-Off do a good one in a spray can) and some proper lube.

WD40 is a Water Dispersant (i.e. it gets rid of the lubricant).

The Mickle method, grasb style:

• spray WD40 onto a cloth
• wipe the chain down with said cloth
• apply dry lube
• wipe down chain with said cloth
• apply dry lube

Nice clean chain which is well lubricated & allows the chain lasts a good 3-5k miles.

 

[G2EWS]

Interesting thread. I am a reborn newbie having been into mountain biking years ago and just recently bought my carbon bike last week.

This reminds me of my other big hobby which is photography. When you start out you cannot believe why someone would spend £5k on a lens when there is a similar one for £300. Then as you get better and you realise why people spend lots of money on what we call 'fast lenses' you start to get rid of the 'cheap' kit and buy the 'right' kit. As mentioned above 'if you can' of course!

My previous mountain bike is a nice bit of kit and I have enjoyed riding it up and down dale. But recently when I went to see a brother and was looking at his collection, which included the arrival of a £5k frame so he could do some changes I discussed carbon bikes. I couldn't understand what it was about. He asked me if I had ridden one and I had not. Give it a go he said! So off I went and found the one I have now bought and boy what a difference it is. Everything about it is smooth and easy to use.

I need to make changes as it will be used mainly on road or tracks rather than mountains. So I will need for example to change the tyres probably for hybrid styles.

But when I do make the changes and buy wet weather gear and mud guards and probably panniers, lights etc, how easy it would be to buy cheap and buy twice just like in the photography world! So for me, I will spend what it takes to get the right kit after asking in this forum what I need.

So back to the OP's question. I personally can see a huge difference between a 'cheap' bike and a 'good' bike. If you can afford it then buy it. If you cannot or more importantly don't want to spend the money, then don't. In the grand scheme of things it doesn't really matter as long as you are happy and satisfied with what you have.

Best regards

Chris

 

[Cyclist33]

Fast depends on you - not the bike.

But also the bike. Are you saying that one rider would put down the same velocity over a given route on a 7 kg stripped down bike, as on one laden up to 20 kg?

Stu

 

[black'n'yellow]

So why dont the pro's have cheap crap steel bikes like me?

Because whether you know it or not, you are not as fast as you think you are. Your 15mph averages don't amount to very much - even in amateur level competition. Sorry to be blunt.

 

[black'n'yellow]

WD40 is a Water Dispersant (i.e. it gets rid of the lubricant).

it is also a lubricant.

 

[AndyPeace]

So the definitive answer is a well maintained cheap steel bike vs. a new expensive bike is the expensive bike only has slight advantages in speed as an amateur?​

I have one steel bike that is now 25yrs+ old and is ridden by many friends of the family, as well as myself. They all agree it's a dam good bike...better than many alloy's of a similar class. it is the comfiest bike I own and I could ride forever on it for that reason. advantages are not always about speed. Taking out rotating weight, like running lighter tires, pedals, crank etc can give improvements to speed, acceleration and hill climbing. You could always upgrade the frame latter. It depends on what you want and have time for. Without doubt, Your biggest advantage in speed comes from your own fitness, how well you fit your bike and your skills. I'm not sure I can give a definitive answer other than to say you dont need to spend alot to run a good bike but you can spend a lot and get a bike that dosent fit your needs.

 

[BrumJim]

But also the bike. Are you saying that one rider would put down the same velocity over a given route on a 7 kg stripped down bike, as on one laden up to 20 kg?

Stu

I'd like to see a 20Kg bike (that's not from JD Sports...)

 

[cyberknight]

I'd like to see a 20Kg bike (that's not from JD Sports...)

I think cyclist meant one laden with panniers, lights etc , my commuter easily gets to 20 kg fully laden and boy do i feel the difference when i get on the nice bike at the weekend which is at least half the weight .Its easier to climb, accelerate and takes less power to maintain the same speed .

 

[MontyVeda]

I notice a huge difference by not taking my lock out.

with regards to WD40... its a lubricant, a degreaser, and a contradiction in terms. Clever marketing has pulled the wool over many peoples eyes regarding what it's actually good for. For me, it's great at getting the sticky residue off after removing a sticker.

when i bought my mtb years ago it needed a new rear dérailleur... i could only afford a £7 acera one. It did the job but I pandered after something better. Eventually i got an XT one, far more expensive... it did exactly the same job, no better, no worse and the weight difference was barely noticeable... so where did all the extra money go? I have no idea.

 

[fossyant]

Modern indexed STI gears will give a much more responsive and snappy gear shift with the shift levers in a more convenient place (not to mention often 10+ speeds on the rear

Hmmm, this is true if riders set things up properly. The clanging and crunching you could hear at the bottom of little hills from many riders on the Manchester 100 would suggest a good proportion can't set them up.

 

[oldfatfool]

Lightweight that's 2-3 weeks of riding

Or 1-2 weeks even