Classics muppet needs advice..

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SteCenturion

I am your Father
Hi y'all.

I have been lurking around in other sections of CC Towers for a while now & have recently been getting all rose spectacled over some Steel road race frames.

I have lots of questions for you connoisseurs of quills & lugs & I am hoping to learn from you experienced folk out there so that come the time, I don’t make a right horlicks of it.

Broken down (as plain as poss)

1. Columbus SLX - in the hierarchy of tubes, where does this sit against other Columbus or Reynolds tube sets & is it fairly lightweight for steel ??

2. If I found the right frame (and one just got away) what spacing between rear dropouts would allow modern 10 speed groupo to be fitted. ?

3.What spacing for 9 speed as above question ?

4. Is it possible to fit a modern stem & bars instead of those long necked jobbies (Quills ?? are they called) ?

5. I would want to run modern sized 700c rims, what enables this & what restricts/prevents this ?

6. Can I fit a carbon post to a steel seat tube (as with Alu) same goes with forks ?

I will leave the questions there as I may have already asked too much.

The Plan.

To find a good quality, excellent condition frame & build up with at least modern group set & wheels, historical accuracy unimportant.

The Dream.

A Custom build from any of these, Feather, Swallow or Brian Rourke, in a high end tube set such as 953, 853 or Columbus.

Cheers very muchly in anticipation of your kindly responses.
 
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fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
Depends upon age with regards to spacing.

Columbus SLX was more or less top end frame set in the mid to late 80's. It's like SL but the X meant rifle reinforcement in all the tubes round the BB and the fork's steerer tube. There was TSX but that was very thin, and not many bike seem to have survived. When I specced my handbuilt SLX the builder said TSX was too thin to chrome. The weight saving was minimal.

My SLX was built at 130mm spacing and will take all speeds upto and including 11' but runs on Dura Ace 7400 series 8 speed.

SLX was a bit. Like 753 at the time. It's light but stiff. It's a class above 531c.

My frame was the same price handbuilt as you could get a Colnago at the time. I chose British built as Dura Ace 8 speed kicked Campag Record in the bin at the time for performance. I told the frame builder I wanted Dura Ace and SLX and it wasn't right sticking Japanese stuff on Italian frames. He agreed and was very impressed with the new Dura Ace.

If you are looking at a classic modern group set, then get Athena in alloy, blooming luvely and still looks near to period.

PS do not expect a cheap bike build. It won't be. These frames fetch as much if not more than was paid for them 25 years ago for a good one.
 
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fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
Ps do not fit a modern stem to a classic bike, you can, but the word fugly comes to light. The best quill stem is the Cinelli XA, it's a work of art. You can get lots of lengths. I use 130mm on my two classics. Bars, you may want the widest fitting of the older bars as they were narrower.
 

Kins

Über Member
I have a quill stem converter on my Dawes Horizon. Doesn't look to bad, but doesn't look great either. Wouldn't put one on a classic bike though.

Reynolds-tubing-sizes.jpg


Columbus-tubes.jpg
 

fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
PS you see no EL or MAX frame sets like you see SLX. If spacing is out, it can be cold set by an expert. don't do it yourself. These tube sets are fab.

It's worth the premium. The internal helicoil is summat else for the age.
 
OP
OP
SteCenturion

SteCenturion

I am your Father
Buy a late 80's SLX for all modern wheels, spacing etc.

The "other" one I have been looking at is Columbus SLX & mid > late 80's & £475, (hoping to knock it down by £50) the one that got away was an Ellis Briggs built Fivori in 531.

Cheers.
 

fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
My SLX runs in at 9kg. If you think the frame and fork are about 3kg - frame set is nearly 2kg unbuilt with 900 g for forks, then that gives us 6kg. Add on 1.5 kg for a carbon frame and forks gives 7.5kg comparison to a carbon bike. That's without weight weenie wheels, so about 7kg direct comparison. Not bad really.
 
OP
OP
SteCenturion

SteCenturion

I am your Father
Whole bike ? Worth it. My frame was nearly £500 in the late 80's..loads.....
Whole bike ? Worth it. My frame was nearly £500 in the late 80's..loads.....
Frame & fork only. (Described as very good to excellent original finish)

I have spare wheels & I am prepared to strip my groupset off my carbon Sintesi to put on it (10 speed Sram Force) then eventually rebuild my carbon bike with 11 speed.
 
OP
OP
SteCenturion

SteCenturion

I am your Father
Sorry about this guys/girls, another question, I have now found 2 frames/forks (hoping to gazump someone & get both for a nice price).

They have 126 & 124 mm spacing between rear dropouts, what gearing will they accommodate please ?

8 maybe 9 speed ??

Should these questions be in technical or some other thread ?

Cheers folks.
 
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