Clicking and creaking noise when pedalling uphill or under load...

[PpPete]

Will do. Pedals are PD-M520.

Clean out any dirt / old grease / animal faeces from the cleat retention springs.
I've had creaks & clicks from this source in the past on M520s.

Another one I've seen recently is slight side-to-side play in the wheels, especially on cup and cone bearing hubs, even just a small movement of the rim wrt to the hub..

I've even had noises (only under load) from a Shimano Bottom Bracket.

Finally, given that it's a Specialized, check the rear wheel spoke tensions. It's a few years ago now, but I had a very bad experience with their wheel build quality and QC, and the first sympton was noise

 

[Mazz]

Clean out any dirt / old grease / animal faeces from the cleat retention springs.
I've had creaks & clicks from this source in the past on M520s.

Another one I've seen recently is slight side-to-side play in the wheels, especially on cup and cone bearing hubs, even just a small movement of the rim wrt to the hub..

I've even had noises (only under load) from a Shimano Bottom Bracket.

Finally, given that it's a Specialized, check the rear wheel spoke tensions. It's a few years ago now, but I had a very bad experience with their wheel build quality and QC, and the first sympton was noise

Thanks I'll try the easier stuff first like cleaning the pedals. The rear wheel was fitted new about 2-3 months ago, so shouldn't have loose spokes but I'll check.

 

[katiewlx]

Thanks I'll try the easier stuff first like cleaning the pedals. The rear wheel was fitted new about 2-3 months ago, so shouldn't have loose spokes but I'll check.

just be mindful sometimes cleaning, unless you totally dry the bit you are cleaning, can introduce more noises

when I get my bike serviced by the LBS, I ask them to do a wash, which I know probably bad as they use a power washer, but hey Im paying for it. But last time they did it they must have sprayed the seat clamps/seat post, boy did that thing then click and creak like anything for months afterwards, even after I attempted to strip it down and clean it.

and then the time before, they must have sprayed or wiped the spokes down with a cleaner spray or product something, perfectly fine in the dry, but get a bit of moisture on it, and the spokes when the wheel spins the weight transfers around the wheel the spokes were just constantly twanging,clicking and creaking, it sounded like Id fitted spokey dokies if you are old enough to remember them, and I had that for ages again till whatever theyd use wore off, which was really annoying

 

[PpPete]

Thanks I'll try the easier stuff first like cleaning the pedals. The rear wheel was fitted new about 2-3 months ago, so shouldn't have loose spokes but I'll check.

Don't be surprised to find at least one loose spoke, or massively varying spoke tensions.... even on new Specialized wheels. I once spent the better part of a night in the middle of a tour stripping a Specialized wheel down to it's components, rebuilding it very carefully, only to have it "pringle" irretrievably the next day.

 

[Mazz]

Don't be surprised to find at least one loose spoke, or massively varying spoke tensions.... even on new Specialized wheels. I once spent the better part of a night in the middle of a tour stripping a Specialized wheel down to it's components, rebuilding it very carefully, only to have it "pringle" irretrievably the next day.

It's not a Specialized wheel, it's a Shimano RS something or other, but I'll check it anyway. Thanks

 

[freiston]

Creaking sounds notoriously difficult to pin point sometimes but it's almost alway not the BB. I've had instances of QR, saddle tube, cleat and most tricky of all to find the cassette wasn't torqued up tight enough.
Can be a case of trial and elimination.

You've just given me something to check on my utility bike. It's an old 2nd hand bike that clicks like a knocking noise under load only when pedalling, but not all the time, going from two audible clicks per pedal revolution up to four.

For various reasons, including this one, I have replaced the bottom bracket, the pedals, had the chainset off and cleaned/tightened up, the seat post for an extra long one, the chain, the rear wheel (front wheel was replaced when installing dynamo lighting), the saddle, the rear carrier; I've removed, re-affixed and removed again the kickstand that clamps to the chainstays and I still have the clicking. I did replace the freewheel long before the rear wheel but used the same (i.e. the new) freewheel when replacing the rear wheel. I have also adjusted the threaded headset bearings

Unfortunately I cannot remember when the clicking started (it was very bad when it first started), nor can I remember how long it was between changing the BB and the freewheel - but I do recall that the clicking subsided around that time but "developed" again later. I have even been worried about frame damage (especially with the clamp-on kickstand) but can't discern any.

 

[brommieinkorea]

You've just given me something to check on my utility bike. It's an old 2nd hand bike that clicks like a knocking noise under load only when pedalling, but not all the time, going from two audible clicks per pedal revolution up to four.

For various reasons, including this one, I have replaced the bottom bracket, the pedals, had the chainset off and cleaned/tightened up, the seat post for an extra long one, the chain, the rear wheel (front wheel was replaced when installing dynamo lighting), the saddle, the rear carrier; I've removed, re-affixed and removed again the kickstand that clamps to the chainstays and I still have the clicking. I did replace the freewheel long before the rear wheel but used the same (i.e. the new) freewheel when replacing the rear wheel. I have also adjusted the threaded headset bearings

Unfortunately I cannot remember when the clicking started (it was very bad when it first started), nor can I remember how long it was between changing the BB and the freewheel - but I do recall that the clicking subsided around that time but "developed" again later. I have even been worried about frame damage (especially with the clamp-on kickstand) but can't discern any.

I have had a loose rack mounting bolt cause clicking. After removing the bottom bracket and cleaning, use blue loctite(Permatex gel is fabulous) upon reassembly. Likewise for pedals (threads only) and all accessory bolts like racks and stuff. On a little bolt like an M5, use thread locker very sparingly! Don't use red thread locking compound.
If you have a tool bag on your bike, make sure the tools aren't rattling together. It will drive you nuts and the diagnostic is to take a ride without your tool bag.
The S bag on my Brompton has a compass/thermometer gadget on one of its zipper pulls, when standing on the pedals it would swing back and forth into things , made a heckuva racket and for a little bit I thought something was broken.
Keys, coins, dog tags, Quick release seatpost clamp and one of your "buddies" has dropped a large ball bearing down your seat tube?

 

[Mazz]

Just getting round to tackling this creaking problem... I've removed the crank arms with a view to regreasing the bb, but how do I ensure that when refitting the non drive-side crank, it's exactly 180 degrees from the drive side?

 

[freiston]

Can't you do it easily enough by eye?

 

[EckyH]

how do I ensure that when refitting the non drive-side crank, it's exactly 180 degrees from the drive side?

The splines on the shaft don't allow tiny misalignements. If the left crank is one spline off, then it's easy to see.
Additionally, there ist the small plate in the slot of the left crank. That plate has a small nib which goes into the small hole on the left side of the shaft. If the left crank is one spline off, the nib and the hole won't "match" and the plate sticks out of the slot in the crank.

E.

 

[Mazz]

...
Additionally, there ist the small plate in the slot of the left crank. That plate has a small nib which goes into the small hole on the left side of the shaft. If the left crank is one spline off, the nib and the hole won't "match" and the plate sticks out of the slot in the crank.

E.

Cheers for this.
I was wondering what that little plate was for!
100% correct - that plate sticks out when misaligned.

 

[Mazz]

UPDATE: the creaking noise is pretty much gone, so cleaning and lubing the pedals, cranks and spindle clearly had an effect. I'm sure I'll replace the BB at some point.

Next job: replace the rear gear cable, which snapped on the ride home today 🙄.

 

[Mazz]

Was just trying to order a BB and spanner.
This BB: https://www.biketart.com/products/shimano-ultegra-bb-r60-6800-bottom-bracket?variant=40810074439859
This spanner: https://www.biketart.com/products/park-tool-bb-c-set-hollowtech2?_pos=38&_sid=5f87a9158&_ss=r

Does anyone know if I also need to get this adaptor ring?
https://www.biketart.com/products/s...llation-tool?_pos=1&_psq=TL-fc25&_ss=e&_v=1.0

Thanks in advance.

 

[Big John]

Depends if you're going to work on different bikes. I've used one before on my mates Campag bike (well I think it was a Campag equipped bike, can't remember precisely) anyway....they're made of heavy duty plastic and we had to give it so much welly it cracked. I think if the main tool works on your bottom bracket then unless you want to moonlight fixing other bikes I'd leave it.

 

[Mazz]

Depends if you're going to work on different bikes. I've used one before on my mates Campag bike (well I think it was a Campag equipped bike, can't remember precisely) anyway....they're made of heavy duty plastic and we had to give it so much welly it cracked. I think if the main tool works on your bottom bracket then unless you want to moonlight fixing other bikes I'd leave it.

Thanks, I phrased my question badly. All I basically meant was 'Are the BB and spanner compatible without the need for the adapter?'.
You've answered that for me.