Converting to hydraulic disc what set?

[Lozi]

Hi

This is my bike

http://2016.konaworld.com/jake_the_snake_cr.cfm

I’m riding my mountain bike currently and using Jake indoors but I plan to start doing rides on it, one problem is that I hate the brakes on it I find them to be terrible.

I want to upgrade it to hydraulic and I am unsure which setup I need to buy for a direct replacement?

Any help would be great

Thanks

 

[Pale Rider]

Changing to a cable actuated hydraulic caliper would be simplest because you wouldn't need to mess around with the lever.

This TRP caliper should, more or less, bolt straight on.

I would be inclined to just do the front for a couple of reasons.

A back brake is hardly used on a bike, so assuming your existing back brake provides some drag, there's not much to be gained by upgrading it.

Second reason is the hydraulic caliper is chunkier and may not fit in the space inside the rear triangle where your existing caliper sits.

Of course, if you buy one caliper to start with, you could offer it up to the rear to see if it will fit before fitting it on the front.

A slightly cheaper option for two brakes is Juin Tech, which come in pairs and pretty colours.

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/trp-hy-rd-cable-actuated-hydraulic-disc-brake-caliper/

https://www.edgesportsuk.com/store/juin-tech-r1-hydraulic-cable-pull-disc-brake-set-cyclocross.html

 

[iluvmybike]

A hydraulic caliper will fit if there is already a mechanical caliper in place. If you want to go fully hydraulic you'll need new sti levers as well as calipers and they need to be compatible with each other

 

[Cycleops]

If they are terrible I imagine there must be a reason. How does it manifest itself?
Even my very cheap Tektro set up is pretty effective.
One of the best mechanical calipers are the TRP Spyres by all accounts, changing to them would be straightforward, otherwise take @Pale Rider ‘s suggestion and fit some cable activated hydraulics.

 

[Deleted member 23692]

I considered cable/hydraulics when I was converting a flat bar bike to drops but chose to go full hydro in the end. Those TRP HY-RD just look aweful with that 'growth' hanging, off the side and the Juin Tech ones (which I preferred) were in short supply at the time.

In the end I made my one setup using Shinamo RS685 Brifters and Deore M615 calipers, and they work superbly. Shop around and you can find bargain on non-retail spec kit

SRAM are another option for full hydro... that's if you can live with those massive hoods on the brifters

 

[Lozi]

Thanks for the responses

To be honest I would rather go for a full hydro setup but it seems that might be more pricey than it’s worth, I thought there might be a setup you get with a 105 group set bike that has hydros instead that I could just swap on (levers/calipers etc)

The brakes currently fitted are just disappointingly bad in my opinion right from new, I took the bike with me when I got my MTB serviced and the guy said that’s just how they are they are working ok I must just be expecting more. The hydraulic discs on my MTB feel amazing in comparison hence why I want to make the change!

 

[Elybazza61]

I'd definitely go full hydraulic;I went for the cable operated version and sort of regretted it from the off (especially after I got the SRAM kit on the XLS)and I'm currently getting parts to go full hydraulic.

Might be worth looking at Merlin's website as they have some good deals on brakes and group sets which can be cheaper than trade prices(mainly from bike build kits so will be in plain packaging),also keep looking on ebay as some stuff does crop up at good prices now and then (one word of warning flat mount calipers will not fit on post mount fittings)

 

[Lozi]

Thanks.

Is this what I’m after?

https://www.merlincycles.com/shiman...is-br-rs785-disc-brakes-post-mount-75654.html

I think mine is post mount.

 

[si_c]

Thanks.

Is this what I’m after?

https://www.merlincycles.com/shiman...is-br-rs785-disc-brakes-post-mount-75654.html

I think mine is post mount.

Not quite, the lever is setup for the front brake being operated by the left hand, which is how most bikes are setup in the US, but is the opposite of how they are setup in the UK.

Definitely consider the TRP Spyre mechanical brakes, I have them on my main bike, and they are ludicrously easy to setup properly, but provide some of the best, and most consistent braking I've had. I'd suggest that also worth considering are the Rever MCX1 brakes. They are IMO equally good at stopping, I prefer the caliper action as it's more immediate than the Spyres, which are a bit more progressive in how they work. The Revers have almost exactly the same adjustment mechanism as the TRP brakes. I'm not sure if the Rever brakes are available in post mount form though.

The Spyres would be a direct swap in as you can get them as post mount. Both those cable actuated brakes are better than some hydraulic systems I've used, in particular I've never been impressed by any Hayes brakes, I have some on a GT mountainbike and I find them a bit crap to be honest.

 

[vickster]

There are some Spyres for sale in the classifieds

 

[Lozi]

Thanks for that so am I right in thinking I might get good results staying with cable brakes with better calipers? The Hayes ones I have I don’t find very effective at all I could be wrong but the cycle mechanic told me only one pad actually moves on them the other stays stationary?

 

[Nibor]

any cable actuated disc brake set up benefits greatly from compressionless outers this is what I would upgrade first to see if this is causing the issue.

 

[Crankarm]

If you go Hope with Tech 3 V4 or E4 hydraulic callipers you can still use your cable STIs as Hope does a neat junction like a slave cylinder - cable pull in and hydraulic line out to the caliper. http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/hope-v-twin-road-cx-brake-system-x2-calipers/rp-prod130429

 

[keithmac]

I had Shimano full hydraulics on my last MTB and they were excellent.