crappy Kona

[fossyant]

I had a Trek FX in 2010, same issue with the frame popping.

Thinking about a steel fixie next? Using a track chain? Going through cassettes and chains every 3 months. That way I could re-enforce and brace the weaker bits??? Really not sure tho', not ridden one before.

The bike is well maintained, just not washed. The usual crap from riding in the rain and the crap on London roads.

Decathlon is a good idea, they are across the road from me, just not heard any reviews about their products.

Thanks for the replies.

I have an alloy fixed for the last 5 years. Whilst I do look after it, it does get a battering and carries two heavy panniers every day.

Must be some serious design faults in those frames.

 

[Crankarm]

You must be generating some serious torque to do this to a bike frame not only Kona but Trek too. I would look at your riding style. You say you are a power lifter, are pushing a heavy gear using the full power of your legs? This would cause the chain set and BB to twist the lower frame around the BB shells, seat tube, down tube and chain stays. Why not change down a sprocket and spin more easily, higher cadence but less torque being put through the transmission? Just a suggestion.

 

[Gravity Aided]

I have an alloy fixed for the last 5 years. Whilst I do look after it, it does get a battering and carries two heavy panniers every day.

Must be some serious design faults in those frames.

Maybe the welding of the frames ? All of these frames look like the crack started in the weld joint, maybe brittleness caused by the heat of the welding?
(I don't know beans about welding, outside of listening during shop class in school.)

 

[BigTel]

You must be generating some serious torque to do this to a bike frame not only Kona but Trek too. I would look at your riding style. You say you are a power lifter, are pushing a heavy gear using the full power of your legs? This would cause the chain set and BB to twist the lower frame around the BB shells, seat tube, down tube and chain stays. Why not change down a sprocket and spin more easily, higher cadence but less torque being put through the transmission? Just a suggestion.

I think you're right, I am hill climbing in hi gears - powering up them. I know I should drop down, but its hard to remember sometimes (cop-out I know) guess I need to adjust my riding style.

Maybe the welding of the frames ? All of these frames look like the crack started in the weld joint, maybe brittleness caused by the heat of the welding?
(I don't know beans about welding, outside of listening during shop class in school.)

3 out of 4 have been along along the weld - I think it could be bad brazing? Which is common on mass produced products.

I wonder how much a custom 1 off frame would cost?

 

[Fab Foodie]

You must be generating some serious torque to do this to a bike frame not only Kona but Trek too. I would look at your riding style. You say you are a power lifter, are pushing a heavy gear using the full power of your legs? This would cause the chain set and BB to twist the lower frame around the BB shells, seat tube, down tube and chain stays. Why not change down a sprocket and spin more easily, higher cadence but less torque being put through the transmission? Just a suggestion.

This.
To have one frame go is careless, to have several suggests that there's something different in the way you ride compared to 99% of the cycling fraternity.
All frames will break if enough force is put through them unless made of welded scaffolding poles. A combination of heavy and powerful rider in a big gear and panniers will put a huge amount of strain through a frame say when standing and accelerating for example. Aluminium doesn't flex well. Buying another brand might not help. Buying steel (unless scaffold poles) probably won't help either. Keep clear of Titanium and Carbon.
Changing the way you ride will probably save you a lot of hassle ....

 

[BigTel]

This.
To have one frame go is careless, to have several suggests that there's something different in the way you ride compared to 99% of the cycling fraternity.
All frames will break if enough force is put through them unless made of welded scaffolding poles. A combination of heavy and powerful rider in a big gear and panniers will put a huge amount of strain through a frame say when standing and accelerating for example. Aluminium doesn't flex well. Buying another brand might not help. Buying steel (unless scaffold poles) probably won't help either. Keep clear of Titanium and Carbon.
Changing the way you ride will probably save you a lot of hassle ....

I'm beginning to realise this - its not easy sitting there 'poodling along', I like to be on my toes motoring. Thanks for the advice.

 

[fossyant]

Its nowt to do with riding style. There is no way a bike should break like that. I hammer my bikes and have three that are over 20 years old. One is an MTB thats had some big crashes including getting hit by cars.

 

[Shut Up Legs]

You must be generating some serious torque to do this to a bike frame not only Kona but Trek too. I would look at your riding style. You say you are a power lifter, are pushing a heavy gear using the full power of your legs? This would cause the chain set and BB to twist the lower frame around the BB shells, seat tube, down tube and chain stays. Why not change down a sprocket and spin more easily, higher cadence but less torque being put through the transmission? Just a suggestion.

I've been riding a Vivente World Randonneur tourer for 5.5 years and my cadence is lower than average (and gear ratios higher than average). The frame's in perfect condition.

 

[Fab Foodie]

I'm beginning to realise this - its not easy sitting there 'poodling along', I like to be on my toes motoring. Thanks for the advice.

I don't think you need to poodle along exactly but just be aware that if you stand hard on the pedals wrestling with keeping the bike upright in a certain way you'll flex the bottom bracket area of the frame. It's easy to see when you're riding. You may need to be sympathetic to the bike.
In the early days of aluminium frames on certain types of Turbo Trainer there were a lot of frame failures around the bottom bracket simply because the rear of the bike was held rigid and powerful and heavy riders could stand and put so much sideways force through the frame that they would crack exactly as yours have. Aluminium doesn't like flexing much. A steel frame will give a lot more but ultimately will have its breaking point.
Be smoother and more controlled, pedal 'Circles' rather than stomp up and down on the pedals. Spin a lower gear faster to accelerate. It'll do you and the bike a lot more good!

 

[BigTel]

I thought when joining and posting this here I would hear more stories about the brand being crappy and weak frames, but there doesn't see to be many? Mostly people respond with disbelief.

I think there has to be something to the power/weight through the frame, but also the crappy pot hole filled London roads could have something to do with it, shocks to the frame with a heavy rider could be an issue?.

I had a Kona Hoss for a while which I rode XC with no issue, was solid as a rock even through harsh terrain (suspensions helps), but was useless for the commuting.

 

[Fab Foodie]

Its nowt to do with riding style. There is no way a bike should break like that. I hammer my bikes and have three that are over 20 years old. One is an MTB thats had some big crashes including getting hit by cars.

I disagree. 2 brands of frame, Trek and Kona, and 2 different Kona designs broken by the same rider suggests the rider in this case not the manufacturer(s) .....

@victor I'm 90kg and like you tend to ride a bigger gear at lower cadences and stand uphill. I have a old and new bikes in steel and aluminium and can make them flex alarmingly depending on how they're ridden, but don't punish them that way by riding with a better and smoother technique.

 

[ianrauk]

but also the crappy pot hole filled London roads could have something to do with it, shocks to the frame with a heavy rider could be an issue?.

over 15,000 for both myself and @Beebo 's London commuting miles on our Kona's tells me otherwise. And in SE London we have some of the worst roads for pot holes.

 

[Cubist]

Not an opinion, just a question. Would an aluminium weld permanently bathed in road filth, salts and other niceties not be subject to some sort of corrosive weakening?

Also, I'm in the "it may be you need a more sympathetic riding style" camp. How long do your chains last? One of our PCSOs breaks chains regularly as he too insists on using the bike to give his legs a workout, mashing high gears up every hill he encounters. At 18 stone you are going to have very powerful legs, and then using your body weight to drive all that power through the rear triangle there has to be some form of penalty.

 

[dan_bo]

Its nowt to do with riding style. There is no way a bike should break like that. I hammer my bikes and have three that are over 20 years old. One is an MTB thats had some big crashes including getting hit by cars.

Wot e sez.

 

[KneesUp]

I'm beginning to realise this - its not easy sitting there 'poodling along', I like to be on my toes motoring. Thanks for the advice.

You mean like those professional cyclists will be "poodling along" around the Alps in a few weeks?