crappy Kona

[BigTel]

I'm also in SE london, roads are lousy! its usually the wheels that take the brunt of it. I've had a few cave in underneath me. I cycle Rotherhithe to Westminster, sometimes via Farringdon, my riding style has been the same since I raced BMX's way back in the 80s, so it will be hard to change - and I get it - 'sit down and shut up knucklehead' :-) I'm going through chains and rear cassettes every 3 months.

@Fab Foodie Yep - m

 

[BigTel]

You mean like those professional cyclists will be "poodling along" around the Alps in a few weeks?

I doubt they'll be in the saddle for the hill climbs??

 

[BigTel]

@@Fab Foodie Yep - a more sympathetic style is required

 

[I like Skol]

I have tried to keep out of this thread because anything I might add could be taken as jumping on the 'bash the OP bandwagon' but when the OP told us his previous bike of different make (Trek) did the same I think he sort of answered his own question.
I was actually thinking he could do with a Kona Hoss but it turns out he has had one and didn't suffer this problem with that bike.

Not an opinion, just a question. Would an aluminium weld permanently bathed in road filth, salts and other niceties not be subject to some sort of corrosive weakening?

My Ali commuter hasn't been cleaned in over 2yrs despite all seasons commuting(it has been well maintained though) and looks a lot like the OPs bike or maybe worse. I consider myself to be a reasonably powerful rider who rarely if ever uses the granny ring (actually took it off my MTB) and at a touch over 6ft and weighing between 14-15st I'm no flyweight but I have never done that to a frame.
IMO the OP needs to change his riding style and should steer clear of lighter frames. It doesn't have to be an MTB but there are stronger frames out there.

My GT Traffic 1.0 is a rigid hybrid that makes a great road bike but the frame is clearly descended from the MTB range and as such is perfect for my aggressive hooliganism style of riding.

Get a GT! (I have three of them )

 

[KneesUp]

I doubt they'll be in the saddle for the hill climbs??

Most of the time they will be - it's the most efficient way to do it. And they will be spinning the pedals at about 90rpm, because that's most efficient too. Of course being much fitter than most people, they will be spinning a higher gear at 90rpm that most could manage, which is why they will go quicker than most will manage.

It sounds like you are riding your bike like the weights in the gym - with huge explosive burst of power - one side, then the other. As others have said, this will cause the bottom bracket to flex one way, then the other. Eventually the metal will fail there.

The fact that you are getting through a chain every few months also suggests you are putting far too much power through the frame. You're obviously stronger in explosive bursts than the average cyclist so you need to ride with some sympathy to the bike, or adapt the bike.

I was once told of someone who put a V8 engine out of a Rover into a Mini without making any changes to the suspension, chasis or brakes. It was very fast until he got to the first corner, when he crashed into a wall.

 

[Ganymede]

@@Fab Foodie Yep - a more sympathetic style is required

You've got a great attitude, Big Tel. I'll be interested to hear how you get on. Not easy to change the habits of a lifetime!

 

[BigTel]

I was once told of someone who put a V8 engine out of a Rover into a Mini without making any changes to the suspension, chasis or brakes. It was very fast until he got to the first corner, when he crashed into a wall.

See your point, nice analogy!

Whats an OP?

 

[KneesUp]

See your point, nice analogy!

Whats an OP?

OP = original poster - you, in the case of this thread

 

[BigTel]

OP = original poster - you, in the case of this thread

Thanks.

I have tried to keep out of this thread because anything I might add could be taken as jumping on the 'bash the OP bandwagon' but when the OP told us his previous bike of different make (Trek) did the same I think he sort of answered his own question.
I was actually thinking he could do with a Kona Hoss but it turns out he has had one and didn't suffer this problem with that bike.

Jump aboard, never too old to learn new things especially if it saves me a month of no bike! I'm grateful for all the advice.

I've had to jump on the motorbike this last week (is that a swear word in here?)

 

[Ganymede]

(is that a swear word in here?)

Heh! Only some of the time!

Actually I think there are quite a few bikers on the forum.

 

[HLaB]

I have tried to keep out of this thread because anything I might add could be taken as jumping on the 'bash the OP bandwagon' but when the OP told us his previous bike of different make (Trek) did the same I think he sort of answered his own question.
I was actually thinking he could do with a Kona Hoss but it turns out he has had one and didn't suffer this problem with that bike.

My Ali commuter hasn't been cleaned in over 2yrs despite all seasons commuting(it has been well maintained though) and looks a lot like the OPs bike or maybe worse. I consider myself to be a reasonably powerful rider who rarely if ever uses the granny ring (actually took it off my MTB) and at a touch over 6ft and weighing between 14-15st I'm no flyweight but I have never done that to a frame.
IMO the OP needs to change his riding style and should steer clear of lighter frames. It doesn't have to be an MTB but there are stronger frames out there.

My GT Traffic 1.0 is a rigid hybrid that makes a great road bike but the frame is clearly descended from the MTB range and as such is perfect for my aggressive hooliganism style of riding.

Get a GT! (I have three of them )

I think I would suffer from target fixation and end up in that canal :-)

 

[Crankarm]

As I originally suggested don't routinely push heavy gears using full power of your legs out of the saddle. Stay seated and spin smoothly and easily around the full pedal stroke. Don't stomp on the pedals side to side. Do you wear cleats or spd cycling shoes? If not do so which will help you ride a lot more smoothly. If you wear trainers on flat pedals riding as you do this may well be the reason you are breaking frames and going through chains and cassettes at a rapid rate. Why not think about buying a Chris Hoy bike as he can generate serious power and his bike frames don't fail afaik?

iirc the Kona Dew type hybrid frames are fairly light cheap frames as are the Trek 7.2/7.3 hybrid range. Why not get a hard tail MTB put a solid fork to replace the front shock and slick tyres. Bingo strong city commuting bike. You can't break a good MTB frame, can you?!

 

[BigTel]

@Crankarm Had a Marin Nail Trail a while back, was a great bike, cost about 900 quid (8 years ago). Could lock off the suspension for the commute. Was awesome, left it at my sisters, and it was nicked from the 3rd floor balcony. Don't know how.

Yep - trainers and DMRv12 pedals - big broad feet and less to carry in the rucksack. Hardtail MTB sounds a good idea. Guess I'm at the mercy of Evans at the minute. Hopefully I'll get a credit note. Thanks

 

[BigTel]

Back in the saddle. Like for like replacement, so far so good. Trying to get my head around gearing, it's an 8 speed -rear cassette (11-32), is there an upgrade for a quicker ride? Is it dependent on the crankset? Thanks for any advice.

 

[KneesUp]

A new bike every two years isn't so bad, but what happened to them giving you a credit note to spend on something else?

Not sure what you mean by a quicker ride - you want to go faster, pedal faster If you are pedalling as fast as you can (and remember that about 90rm if more efficient and better for the frame!) then you need a smaller cog at the back or a bigger one at the front. Changing the cassette (back) is probably the cheapest/easiest option.