Creaking handlebars

[Pat "5mph"]

My alu bike's handlebars (see pic below) have developed a creak, in particular the left side.
I am pretty sure the creak does not originate from the stem.
This started after I fitted the slot to insert a basket, but I actually never rode with the basket on, so the extra weight could not have caused it.
I have now removed the basket fittings, but the creak persists.
Have I damaged something? Or neglected to lube something?
Thanks for your help

 

[HovR]

Creaks and clicks can be deceptive, and hard to pin-point their position. My bars generated a creak a while ago, which was fixed by tightening the handlebar clamp bolts.

It might also be worth taking the bars out of the stem, and examining them around the clamp area for possible cracks. Unlikely, but worth checking for as a break could be pretty dangerous mid ride.

Applying grease to any dry bolts in the handle bar area won't hurt anything either.

 

[HovR]

Something else I just thought of.. Having never fitted a basket, I'm not sure how you'd go about it - But if you took off the handlebar clamp, and re-tightened the bolts unevenly, that could be a cause.

 

[ColinJ]

I had a noise like that on my MTB once. I couldn't find out where it came from so I ignored it and went for a ride. I did a fast technical descent and had just got to the bottom when there was a loud 'crack' and my handlebars suddenly rotated through 90 degrees, almost throwing me off the bike!

It turned out that I must have overtightened the bolt in the stem - it had neatly extracted the thread into which it was inserted ...

I don't ignore funny noises from my bikes now!

 

[Pat "5mph"]

Cheers, HovR: I have a feeling it's the handlebar clamps, will re-tighten tomorrow. I did not remove them because of the basket, but I had loosened them to raise the bars a bit. Also, the bike got soaked so much in the last week, that a bit of clamp lubing, as you suggest, won't go amiss!
Will check for damage too, just in case.
Thanks for the tips!

 

[rusty bearing]

Redo the stem clamp bolts to the proper torque if its required and put a dab of grease on the threads first, creak generally goes away. And yes , make sure the clamp is done up evenly...

 

[Pat "5mph"]

I had a noise like that on my MTB once. I couldn't find out where it came from so I ignored it and went for a ride. I did a fast technical descent and had just got to the bottom when there was a loud 'crack' and my handlebars suddenly rotated through 90 degrees, almost throwing me off the bike!

It turned out that I must have overtightened the bolt in the stem - it had neatly extracted the thread into which it was inserted ...

I don't ignore funny noises from my bikes now!

How reassuring!
But how do you know when tight is too tight?

 

[ColinJ]

How reassuring!
But how do you know when tight is too tight?

Well, there is no place for b*stard-tight on a bike, that's for sure!

Ideally, you would use a torque wrench to get everything spot on, but I tend to go for 'tight enough not to slip, plus a little bit'.

These days, I err on the side of loose rather than tight. You can tighten loose things up, but having things break is a bit of a showstopper!

 

[ColinJ]

Oh, and another example of b*stard tight was when I got fed up of my saddle clamp slipping. Eventually, I used a piece of metal pipe as an extension to get extra leverage on the allen key. Result: I was riding along a hilltop road above Hebden Bridge and the saddle clamp bolt broke when I hit a bump in the road. I stuck the saddle in my jersey pocket and rode home down the hill standing up!

 

[Pat "5mph"]

Well, there is no place for b*stard-tight on a bike, that's for sure!

Ideally, you would use a torque wrench to get everything spot on, but I tend to go for 'tight enough not to slip, plus a little bit'.

These days, I err on the side of loose rather than tight. You can tighten loose things up, but having things break is a bit of a showstopper!

OMG: I think I am too tight! Will rectify asp!

 

[Pat "5mph"]

Oh, and another example of b*stard tight was when I got fed up of my saddle clamp slipping. Eventually, I used a piece of metal pipe as an extension to get extra leverage on the allen key. Result: I was riding along a hilltop road above Hebden Bridge and the saddle clamp bolt broke when I hit a bump in the road. I stuck the saddle in my jersey pocket and rode home down the hill standing up!

Colin, that's the kind of tight I mean: I will loosen up a bit now that you told me your stories.

 

[rusty bearing]

From memory they should be around 7-10 newton meters,or pounds inch, one or the other . A small 3/8th drive torque wrench covers this and is much used in the workshop. On anything carbon for example there ain't no room for error!

 

[ColinJ]

When you think about it (if I understand torque properly) if a torque was specified as 50 Nm then you'd need a 50N force acting on the end of a 1 metre long allen key or spanner.

If you prefer imperial units ... 100 Nm is roughly equal to 75 foot-pounds so a 50 Nm torque would be about 37 ft-lbs, or a 37 pound weight hanging off the end of a 12" adjustable spanner.

So 10 Nm would be about 7.5 pounds on the end of a 12" spanner.

 

[jim55]

Can't u just buy a small torque wrench , iv got one for the car that's 25- 100 I think

 

[Pat "5mph"]

Can't u just buy a small torque wrench , iv got one for the car that's 25- 100 I think

Moi? Torque wrench? Wait, I google it .... Aha, yes, think I've got one - I collect tools just in case one day I need them. Don't know how to use it, will find out. Cheers for that, Jim.