Dawes Galaxy Tour

[SkipdiverJohn]

My best Raleigh Pioneer has got the Altus canti brake arms and I find them very good stoppers so long as the rim braking surfaces are kept clean. I don't know if they flex less than the plastic variety, but the alloy cantis often found on 80s bikes do seem better. They also look better than the cheaper black plastic types you find on most low end models. The Dawes frame is decent enough to be well worth the effort to make the finished job look presentable. It should be a nice ride when its done.

 

[TheDoctor]

That Galaxy frame looks properly nice.
I have a Paul Donahue c 1992 531ST frameset in the garage, awaiting powdercoating. It's taken me to Germany, Austria, Belgium, France and Portugal, so I'm aiming to get it built up properly. Which means fighting with cantilevers, I suspect...

 

[Davidi]

No problem:
1) The original canti brakes don't have any markings but I believe they are Shimano. Mine were originally very poor so I bought some replacements hoping for an improvement only to find they didn't fit due to the mounting points being too narrow. If buying again these are the ones I'd be looking at: https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/brakes/front-shimano-altus-ct91-cantilever-brakes-silver/ (Incidentally, after playing round with adjustment I made my existing brakes work brilliantly.

2) Not a silly question. The wheel size is indeed 700C. Original fitment was Shimano Parallax hubs laced to Mavic rims. If replacing (which I'll have to do in the not too distant future) my personal choice would be Deore hubs and Exal LX17 rims. (Should have mentioned, rear spacing is MTB 135mm not race bike 130mm)

3) I bought the bike fitted with a flat bar and inappropriate V brake levers. My rebuild was with Tektro RL340 brake levers,Tektro Cross Brake Levers, and Shimano Dura Ace bar-end shifters.

4) Mine was originally 3x8 speed but the rebuild made it a 3x9 speed with 24-34-46 chainrings and an 11-34 cassette. I very much like this setup which will go plenty quick enough for me and will climb pretty much anything in my area.

5) I'm still on the original headset after a stripdown and regrease. Don't know what make it is. The handlebar I chose has a 26mm clamp area so I went for this stem in an 80mm reach: https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/stems/100-systemex-1-inch-quill-stem-260mm-clamp-silver/ which suits me.

Thank you very much

 

[Davidi]

Now is an ideal time to weigh the frame before any components are fitted to it, It's the method of checking a frame for quality that doesn't lie.
I have a full 531ST touring frame & forks in 23" size, which weighs 7 1/4 lbs with just the headset fitted. given your frame is smaller, it should come in at no more than 7 lbs if it's full 531 as it is now.
By comparison, a basic hi--tensile steel frame & forks can be expected to weigh in at around 9 lbs, and possibly slightly over.

Yes, it came in at 7lbs and 1 oz

 

[SkipdiverJohn]

Yes, it came in at 7lbs and 1 oz

Nice to know that the frame comes in at a credible figure. Not too high and not too low either. Gives confidence it's what it claims to be in the absence of the expected tubing stickers. It is not unknown for shysters on eBay to fake a cheapo frame as a quality one with the wrong decals and try to con the buyer - as one forum member on here rumbled when he weighed a vintage steel frame he bought and was suspicious about.

 

[Tebb1t]

I had a mid-90s Galaxy, belting bike I used it for touring, club runs and commuting.

 

[BalkanExpress]

As with @Rickshaw Phil I like a cross brake lever, adds a bit of security for those moments when you are on the tops taking in the views

The only issue can be if you want to fit a bar bag. You can get extenders for the bag mount but then you have to watch the weight that goes into the bag.

 

[Davidi]

Nice to know that the frame comes in at a credible figure. Not too high and not too low either. Gives confidence it's what it claims to be in the absence of the expected tubing stickers. It is not unknown for shysters on eBay to fake a cheapo frame as a quality one with the wrong decals and try to con the buyer - as one forum member on here rumbled when he weighed a vintage steel frame he bought and was suspicious about.

Build coming on well, Tektro Oryx cantis. Nitto Randonneur bars, Nitto riser stem, Tektro levers and dia-compe friction down shifters, may fit cross brake levers but unsure at moment. Looking to build wheels from Ryde Sputnic rims on Deore hubs ( last wheels I built were twenty years ago and they still being bounced around the streets of London on my sons bike).

 

[SkipdiverJohn]

Sounds like you are building it to last. Cycle tourists seem to regard Sputnik rims combined with Deore hubs as the benchmark standard for bombproof wheels. I just ride on whatever wheels I acquire with bikes, but if I was having some specially built I would probably get the same and not mess around. A good steel frame is not a 5/10 year lifespan bike so it's not extravagant to fit some really durable wheels to it as you might end up keeping it for many years.

 

[Scotstounman]

Build coming on well, Tektro Oryx cantis. Nitto Randonneur bars, Nitto riser stem, Tektro levers and dia-compe friction down shifters, may fit cross brake levers but unsure at moment. Looking to build wheels from Ryde Sputnic rims on Deore hubs ( last wheels I built were twenty years ago and they still being bounced around the streets of London on my sons bike).

Davidi,
I’ve been reading this thread with interest as I purchased a Dawes Super Galaxy frameset from EBay back in the Summer when I needed a lockdown project to keep me occupied. My frame was 1994 vintage and had been badly overpainted in dark green so I elected to get it blasted and repainted resulting in a very satisfactory finish. There are some small differences between the frame you purchased and mine so for example mine has brake cable guides along the top tube but no bottle bosses under the down tube. I would guess that these differences were part of the model development over the production life. Mine had canti brake bosses and came with the brakes but I chose to fit Tektro mini vee brakes based on comments elsewhere on this forum. They work well but I’d be interested to hear how you get on with cantis. The steel frame does give a lovely smooth ride compared to an aluminium framed bike I used previously. I’d be pleased to hear how your Galaxy works out when it’s finished, though the weather forecast suggests that test rides may be a few weeks away.

 

[Davidi]

Hi and @Davidi from a fellow Dawes Galaxy Tour owner.
View attachment 569583


Looking closely at the details on your frame it looks to be what the stickers claim it is. Mine does have the Reynolds stickers on and it's 531ST. It's a great bike - eats the miles, handles well and gives a nice smooth ride.

I hope you'll really enjoy yours when it's built up.

Hi Phil build finished at last here are some pics

 

[Rickshaw Phil]

Hi Phil build finished at last here are some pics

That looks great.

 

[T4tomo]

Davidi,
I’ve been reading this thread with interest as I purchased a Dawes Super Galaxy frameset from EBay back in the Summer when I needed a lockdown project to keep me occupied. My frame was 1994 vintage and had been badly overpainted in dark green so I elected to get it blasted and repainted resulting in a very satisfactory finish. There are some small differences between the frame you purchased and mine so for example mine has brake cable guides along the top tube but no bottle bosses under the down tube. I would guess that these differences were part of the model development over the production life. Mine had canti brake bosses and came with the brakes but I chose to fit Tektro mini vee brakes based on comments elsewhere on this forum. They work well but I’d be interested to hear how you get on with cantis. The steel frame does give a lovely smooth ride compared to an aluminium framed bike I used previously. I’d be pleased to hear how your Galaxy works out when it’s finished, though the weather forecast suggests that test rides may be a few weeks away.

I would recommend Shimano CX-50 cantis. I know mini V's are just about compatible with drop bar levers, I inherited some set up that way, but the tolerances are very fine, to eliminate rub but get enough power. The CX50 were streets ahead in both respects once I used an uphanger for the front, rather than steerer mount.

 

[GuyBoden]

Looks good and thoughtfully assembled, nice. I have a 1977 Galaxy, they are great for comfy rides.

 

[Punkawallah]

Nice job! 'Hello' from another Galaxy rider :-)