Di2 transfer to a different bike

Sittingduck

Legendary Member
Location
Somewhere flat
Greetings people

I would like to remove Di2 from a Giant Propel and install it into Giant Defy Advanced (currently with conventional gearing). Both bikes have internal cable routing as you would expect.

Is there anything I should consider carefully before ripping apart the Propel? I am assuming I might need some specialist tools specific to the Di2 aspect. I will have a look at the bag that is still with the manual it came with and has been gathering dust in the Garage for about 3 years. I have most of the other typical bike tools and am not a total beginner regarding bike stuff but am very out of practice!

Thank you,
SD
 

ianrauk

Tattooed Beat Messiah
Hey SD. Welcome back matey. Good to see you.
 

TerryDi2

Active Member
Hello Mr Duck!

If you have the Shimano TL-EW02 or can easily get it, then do so. It is relatively cheap and makes plugging cables in correctly a lot easier.
Cannot find it anywhere? You'll be fine without the tool too.. just keep in mind that these Di2 wires should really snap/click into place when assembling the Defy.

You can unplug the wires in any order you see fit. I'd probably disconnect the RD and FD first and take them off the bike, because that's quick and easy. Speaking of the FD.. depending on how it is mounted on the Defy, you may need a Shimano Di2 front derailleur 'backup plate'.
If the support bolt touches the frame (on the Defy) then installing the backup plate is highly recommended. This is usually the case when using the clamp band. You shouldn't have this problem with braze on frames.
The part number is Y5ZW98010 for R8050/R9150 and Y5LF98010 for 6870/6770/9070.
(probably the same part, but just in case..)
See this page (6870/9070) or this page (R8050/R9150) for a bit more info on the backup plate.

The Di2 battery is (probably) in the seatpost. If the other bike has a different diameter seatpost then you may also need a different seatpost battery holder. Also, there will be a small 4-way splitter, Junction B (SM-JC41) near the bottom bracket. This connects RD, FD and battery to the front of the bike.
Since the battery is attached to that junction, don't just pull out the entire seatpost battery wire if you haven't disconnected it at the junction B.. doing so could damage the wire or the port on the junction box.
 
OP
Sittingduck

Sittingduck

Legendary Member
Location
Somewhere flat
Thanks very much Terry
I will have a look to see if I have the Shimano TL-EW02 thing and FD mountings. You are correct, it is a seatpost battery. The seatposts are a different shape, so I will investigate that also. Will post back when I am further down the road with the switch over!

Cheers
 
OP
Sittingduck

Sittingduck

Legendary Member
Location
Somewhere flat
Quick update on this - decomm process is completed on the Propel. Not as bad as I thought, although getting junction box B and all cabling out of the frame without breaking anything was a slight challenge.

Next step - strip the Defy and try to install it!

propel-decomm1.jpg
propel-decomm2.jpg

propel-decomm3.jpg
propel-decomm4.jpg


BTW - I checked my spares pile and came up trumps with the connector tool thingy and carbon protective plates plus some other gubbins.

di2-spares-jackpot.jpg
 
Last edited:
OP
Sittingduck

Sittingduck

Legendary Member
Location
Somewhere flat
Decomm'd the Defy - all cables out, bars off and fully committed
Just found out I need to remove the BB to be able to re-connect the wiring to the Junction box B - hadn't thought of that had I :blush:
Do I possess the correct tool to remove a Defy BB and re-install, no I do not! :angry:

To be continued...
 

JoeyB

Go on, tilt your head!
I treated myself to the Parktool Di2 cable routing kit which made routing Di2 cables through the frame and bars a breeze. You don't need to get the Parktool one though, there are kits much cheaper available. I was lucky with my frame in that it has an access hatch below the BB which meant I could route cables past the BB without actual BB removal.
 

TerryDi2

Active Member
Yeah, Park Tool, Jagwire, PRO, IceToolz and others make them too.

You can also find videos of people making their own tool, like this one:

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ks42F8sVJoI
 
OP
Sittingduck

Sittingduck

Legendary Member
Location
Somewhere flat
Thanks will have a look. I can’t see any other way of getting the room to plug in the cables to the b junction without removing the BB though. The external cable guide underneath the BB can be removed but there is in no way enough room to get the b box in/out of it or get cable ends and the connector through it to get to the junction b. Will potentially take it down the local Giant store for this part as upon closer inspection the NDS BB bearing is shot anyway. I might buy the tool for BB removal and refitting but not sure yet. Bring back Hollowtech 2 I say! ^_^ nevertheless I will also see about the cabling magnet kits as above - thanks guys
 

Ridgeway

Über Member
Trust me, take out the BB, it will make life ALOT easier.....

Just installed Di2 on my summer bike today. I tried to avoid removing the BB but finally gave in when i realised i pretty much had no choice, once the BB was out all the cables were connected and positioned in a few minutes:okay:
 

Ridgeway

Über Member
The worst part for my install was running the cables, once that bit was done and i gave in on the BB the rest was pretty straight forwards.

I did have to replace the rear mech cable as it was damaged and also had to buy the mech hanger bracket but tonight she ran like a dream, click, click click:okay::okay::okay:
 

JhnBssll

Veteran
Location
Suffolk
Is it strange that I rather enjoy running internal cables? :laugh: Well done SD, sounds like you're on the right tracks :okay: I've only ever managed one install with the BB in situ, that was on a friends Felt aero bike which had a handy trap door that was just big enough to squeeze the box through once connected up, then I had to retrieve the loose cable ends with string I'd tied to them. If I'd had the correct BB tool I would have taken it out for sure, much quicker in the long run :laugh: The other thing I tend to do is wrap the Junction B in bubble wrap and put a bit of electrical tape round it and poke it up the seat tube, just to stop it knocking about. I also put small cable ties on the cables where they run internally, staggered every 100mm or so - that has the same effect, pushing the against the inside of the frame and stopping the cable from knocking about 😊 They can be a nuisance to remove again afterwards though :laugh:
 
Top Bottom