different tyres front and back ?
- Thread starter paulmad
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black'n'yellow
Guest
why would you want less grip on the front..?
Are we talking on roads or off-road terrain?
The primary requirements of the grip on each wheel off-road is quite different, and as such people often use different tires or tread patterns between their front and back wheel. The back wheel, providing all of the drive, primarily requires tread to prevent the wheel from spinning as you accelerate (longitudinal grip).
On the other hand your front wheel, which does all of the steering, requires primarily lateral grip to prevent the front wheel from skidding out from under you. For this reason you want your most aggressive tread on the front wheel, as if the front wheel skids out - it's going to hurt!
On the road it's much simpler - Just put slick/smooth tires on both front and back. On a hard surface such as tarmac, a slick tire, which has more surface area on the ground will give you the most grip.
Theoretically speaking you are more likely to get punctures on the back, as there is more weight over the rear wheel.
The primary requirements of the grip on each wheel off-road is quite different, and as such people often use different tires or tread patterns between their front and back wheel. The back wheel, providing all of the drive, primarily requires tread to prevent the wheel from spinning as you accelerate (longitudinal grip).
On the other hand your front wheel, which does all of the steering, requires primarily lateral grip to prevent the front wheel from skidding out from under you. For this reason you want your most aggressive tread on the front wheel, as if the front wheel skids out - it's going to hurt!
On the road it's much simpler - Just put slick/smooth tires on both front and back. On a hard surface such as tarmac, a slick tire, which has more surface area on the ground will give you the most grip.
Theoretically speaking you are more likely to get punctures on the back, as there is more weight over the rear wheel.
OP
OP
paulmad
Active Member
thank you, so worth having a more puncture resistant tyre at the back
In regards to likely hood of getting a puncture, yes. But the other way of looking at it is if you got a large puncture causing a blowout on the front wheel you're probably going to fall off, so if you only had one puncture resistant tire you might also want it on the front. Best just to buy two if you can afford it. (This cycling malarky can get expensive!
)Note that this is a worst case scenario and doesn't happen very often, and generally only with high pressure tires.
OP
OP
paulmad
Active Member
yes and one mans rubbish (tyre) is someone elses favouriteIn regards to likely hood of getting a puncture, yes. But the other way of looking at it is if you got a large puncture causing a blowout on the front wheel you're probably going to fall off, so if you only had one puncture resistant tire you might also want it on the front. Best just to buy two if you can afford it. (This cycling malarky can get expensive!
Note that this is a worst case scenario and doesn't happen very often, and generally only with high pressure tires.
yes and one mans rubbish (tyre) is someone elses favourite
What sort of bike is it (tire size 26", 700c? It should say it on the tire sidewall) and what sort of terrain do you ride on (tow-paths, road and cycle paths, singletrack?).
If you're primarily on tow paths and roads then the Schwalbe Marathon Plus is a very well regarded tire as far as puncture protection goes, although some find it slightly heavy.
OP
OP
paulmad
Active Member
im sure being heavy wont matter, im heavy too. read that some people have difficulty fitting them, worry about not being able to get it off easily if needed. it will be towpaths and roads
Piemaster
Guru
- Location
- UK City of Culture
M+ can be a bugger to put on but on the other hand it's doubtful having to take it off again before it's worn out. I don't bother with puncture kit/pump when out on the M+ shod bike and spit in the eye of the p******re fairy.
Cyclist33
Guest
- Location
- Warrington
Doh, you soooo shouldna said that!
Cyclist33
Guest
- Location
- Warrington
I'm not clear on this thread what patterns constitute long. and lat. grip? I would have thought lateral grip means something that looked rather like a mill wheel, ie that hooks onto unevennesses and "paddles" you over.through them? And longitudinal grip would be something like an arrowhead, or diamond pattern, that carves through the trail's mud/general crap, like Moses parting the Red Sea, to allow the back tyre to find surfaces to paddle over?
Am I at sixes and sevens here?!
On the OT, at the moment I've only got one decent specimen each of two completely different tyres for my MTB - the Kenda Nevegal is a bit wider even though it's nominally a 2.1" same as the WTB Raijin I've got at the back. I run the Kenda at the front because it's a softer rubber and seems to slide less, whilst the WTB rolls far more quickly.
Stu
BalkanExpress
Guru
- Location
- Brussels
You've got it
Panaracer Smoke and Dart: Smoke on the left goes on the back; Dart on the right goes on the front. Great tyres and remind me of when I was young(er)
Cyclist33
Guest
- Location
- Warrington
You've got it
Panaracer Smoke and Dart: Smoke on the left goes on the back; Dart on the right goes on the front. Great tyres and remind me of when I was young(er)
What do you mean? You were once made of rubber and your ass was laterally ribbed while your, er, other bit was knobbly?
