Disc Road Bikes and Thru Axles

[Yellow Saddle]

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No, that leaves you at the mercy of the frame welder. No adjustment there, I'm afraid. Rather just take a pill for the OCD.

 

[simon.r]

No, that leaves you at the mercy of the frame welder. No adjustment there, I'm afraid. Rather just take a pill for the OCD.

The fork TA lever sits in just the right position - at least I can't see this end when I'm riding.

 

[Yellow Saddle]

I found this picture on a bike with a possible adjuster but the photo is not good enough to enlarge. It appears as if it is a DT Swiss affair, judging by the colour and the company's addition to DT Swiss hardware.

 

[S-Express]

One thing I don't like with thru axles is that you can't orientate the lever as you want it like you can with QR's.

Mine are adjustable for angle - I presumed they all were.

 

[simon.r]

Mine are adjustable for angle - I presumed they all were.

How? What brand are they?

 

[S-Express]

My TAs are on a Jamis carbon gravel bike, the hubs are Formula.

 

[StuAff]

This is the bit that confuses me, why haven't they carried this across to the GF Ti disc frame?? I know exactly what will happen, I will buy the frame with the q/r rear drop outs and next month they will launch the tru axle frame version.

The mind boggles…were it me, I'd go elsewhere.

 

[Milzy]

I love through axels for more strength and less flex. Plus idiots less likely to try and nick your wheels.

 

[S-Express]

Plus idiots less likely to try and nick your wheels.

No harder to nick a wheel with a TA, as far as I'm aware..

 

[Milzy]

No harder to nick a wheel with a TA, as far as I'm aware..

My through axels have anti tamper nuts so you at least need a hollow Allen key of correct size. QR are straight off and quicker!!

 

[Yellow Saddle]

My through axels have anti tamper nuts so you at least need a hollow Allen key of correct size. QR are straight off and quicker!!

I disagree. Now that QR has been adulterated with lawyer's lips, they are no longer quick release. In the old days you would just flip open the lever and drop the wheel out. Now, you flip open the lever, unscrew it a few turns and take the wheel of. Replacing it is even more cumbersome because you have to re-adjust the QR each time you use it. Rear is obviously still QR unless Health and Safety have gotten to them as well.

I have filed off all the lawyer's lips on all our bikes. 20 years later I'm still alive.

 

[SpokeyDokey]

This is Genesis's take on TA front and QR rear on the datum:

Out back it was a different story - we opted for a conventional 9mm QR rear for a few reasons – A) Primarily because it’s more affordable (in hub/axle/dropout cumulative cost). B) We didn’t necessarily require the additional stiffness in the rear (in-saddle comfort was a priority). C) Safety – disc brake wheel ejection is only ever an issue on the front.

A) is a hoot: this on a bike that costs from £1800-3200 (or thereabouts).

 

[StuAff]

My through axels have anti tamper nuts so you at least need a hollow Allen key of correct size. QR are straight off and quicker!!

Depends on the through axle. Most don't have the Allen key requirement. The DT Swiss ones are as fast as QR, and Focus' RAT system is (allegedly) faster than QR.

 

[AlanW]

So is it fair to say that it's not uncommon to have thru axle front and q/r rear then?

 

[SpokeyDokey]

So is it fair to say that it's not uncommon to have thru axle front and q/r rear then?

It is fair to say - but TA's will be universal one day imo esp' on disc braked bikes which will also be universal one day imo - despite the naysayers.