Do I Need A New Chain?

[nmfeb70]

Hi all, I bought a new Trek Xcaliber MTB a few months ago and I'd say I've done around 700 miles over all terrain. I clean and lube my chain after every ride but I've recently noticed an occasional clicking sound emerging from the chainwheel and cassette, sometimes when under pressure. I've also noticed when I'm freewheeling and the chain is on the smallest rear cog, if I rotate the chain backwards it jumps into the next lowest gear (eg 9th to 8th). Is this a sign of a worn chain and should it need replacing after 700 miles? Thanks.

 

[Smokin Joe]

No, it's a sign that the gear indexing needs adjusting. Quite common on a new bike as the cables will settle down into their end stops with use.

 

[raleighnut]

Sounds more like the freewheel needs a bit of lube but the chain could easily be 'tired' too.

 

[Noodle Legs]

A chain checker tool will tell you whether your chain is worn and there are plenty of videos on how to use one, they’re relatively cheap (under £10) and easy to use. That said, another way is to put your chain into the big ring and from the 9 o clock position, try to pull the chain away from the ring. There should be minimal movement. If there is daylight between the teeth of the chainring and the chain, change immediately.

It sounds from your description that it may be an indexing issue- so I’d try that first as the cable may be a little stretched.

 

[chr15b]

from the 9 o clock position

You mean the 3 o'clock position right?

 

[Noodle Legs]

You mean the 3 o'clock position right?

Yes, quite right!

 

[fossyant]

PS back pedalling can cause gear shifts - No idea why you would back pedal.

I'm still on my original cassette (rear gears) but second chain and large chain ring on my full suspension MTB - over 4 years, used in all weather.

The cassette and chain will need replacing before winter though.

That said, we don't know your cleaning regime with an MTB, and you could well have knackered the chain etc by not cleaning them, or they may not have been that dirty anyway, so will be OK.

Gear adjustment is first port of call.

 

[nmfeb70]

PS back pedalling can cause gear shifts - No idea why you would back pedal.

I'm still on my original cassette (rear gears) but second chain and large chain ring on my full suspension MTB - over 4 years, used in all weather.

The cassette and chain will need replacing before winter though.

That said, we don't know your cleaning regime with an MTB, and you could well have knackered the chain etc by not cleaning them, or they may not have been that dirty anyway, so will be OK.

Gear adjustment is first port of call.

A chain checker tool will tell you whether your chain is worn and there are plenty of videos on how to use one, they’re relatively cheap (under £10) and easy to use. That said, another way is to put your chain into the big ring and from the 9 o clock position, try to pull the chain away from the ring. There should be minimal movement. If there is daylight between the teeth of the chainring and the chain, change immediately.

It sounds from your description that it may be an indexing issue- so I’d try that first as the cable may be a little stretched.

Large chain wheel and smallest rear cog right? Done that and there is daylight between chain & wheel.

 

[nmfeb70]

PS back pedalling can cause gear shifts - No idea why you would back pedal.

I'm still on my original cassette (rear gears) but second chain and large chain ring on my full suspension MTB - over 4 years, used in all weather.

The cassette and chain will need replacing before winter though.

That said, we don't know your cleaning regime with an MTB, and you could well have knackered the chain etc by not cleaning them, or they may not have been that dirty anyway, so will be OK.

Gear adjustment is first port of call.

I don't need to pedal backwards for it to change cogs. It happens when I'm freewheeling. As I mentioned in my post, I clean the chain after every ride & then apply a thin layer of lube.

 

[Juan Kog]

I agree with Smokin Joe after 700 miles cable " stretch" is the likely culprit. Adjustment is quite straight forward YouTube will help or visit to LBS. Chain wear does seem unlikely with such a low mileage and your cleaning and lube regime . To repeat Noodle Legs comment a chain wear tool will settle the issue of a worn chain and it will be a usefull addition to your toolbox.

 

[nmfeb70]

I agree with Smokin Joe after 700 miles cable " stretch" is the likely culprit. Adjustment is quite straight forward YouTube will help or visit to LBS. Chain wear does seem unlikely with such a low mileage and your cleaning and lube regime . To repeat Noodle Legs comment a chain wear tool will settle the issue of a worn chain and it will be a usefull addition to your toolbox.

Thanks.

 

[nmfeb70]

Ok, shifting is nice and crisp. I've just got back from a ride, the clicking noise persists and the chain droops when I stop pedalling in the highest gear and then freewheel. The chain also slipped down a few cogs when going up hill. I've ordered a tool to check the chain but it all points to a worn chain.

 

[Smokin Joe]

Ok, shifting is nice and crisp. I've just got back from a ride, the clicking noise persists and the chain droops when I stop pedalling in the highest gear and then freewheel. The chain also slipped down a few cogs when going up hill. I've ordered a tool to check the chain but it all points to a worn chain.

They are not the symptoms of a worn chain but a sticking freehub. Wear will not cause the chain to droop or skip sprockets.

 

[Noodle Legs]

Large chain wheel and smallest rear cog right? Done that and there is daylight between chain & wheel.

I’d probably try a bigger sprocket at the back to maximise tension on the chain, if it clears the chainring then, it is definitely shagged.

 

[Noodle Legs]

It's 9 o'clock if you look at it from the other side.

Took the words right out of my mouth!