Do I Need A New Chain?

Page may contain affiliate links. Please see terms for details.

nmfeb70

Senior Member
Location
Tonypandy, Wales
Hi all, I bought a new Trek Xcaliber MTB a few months ago and I'd say I've done around 700 miles over all terrain. I clean and lube my chain after every ride but I've recently noticed an occasional clicking sound emerging from the chainwheel and cassette, sometimes when under pressure. I've also noticed when I'm freewheeling and the chain is on the smallest rear cog, if I rotate the chain backwards it jumps into the next lowest gear (eg 9th to 8th). Is this a sign of a worn chain and should it need replacing after 700 miles? Thanks.
 
No, it's a sign that the gear indexing needs adjusting. Quite common on a new bike as the cables will settle down into their end stops with use.
 
A chain checker tool will tell you whether your chain is worn and there are plenty of videos on how to use one, they’re relatively cheap (under £10) and easy to use. That said, another way is to put your chain into the big ring and from the 9 o clock position, try to pull the chain away from the ring. There should be minimal movement. If there is daylight between the teeth of the chainring and the chain, change immediately.

It sounds from your description that it may be an indexing issue- so I’d try that first as the cable may be a little stretched.
 
Last edited:

fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
PS back pedalling can cause gear shifts - No idea why you would back pedal.

I'm still on my original cassette (rear gears) but second chain and large chain ring on my full suspension MTB - over 4 years, used in all weather.

The cassette and chain will need replacing before winter though.

That said, we don't know your cleaning regime with an MTB, and you could well have knackered the chain etc by not cleaning them, or they may not have been that dirty anyway, so will be OK.

Gear adjustment is first port of call.
 
OP
OP
nmfeb70

nmfeb70

Senior Member
Location
Tonypandy, Wales
PS back pedalling can cause gear shifts - No idea why you would back pedal.

I'm still on my original cassette (rear gears) but second chain and large chain ring on my full suspension MTB - over 4 years, used in all weather.

The cassette and chain will need replacing before winter though.

That said, we don't know your cleaning regime with an MTB, and you could well have knackered the chain etc by not cleaning them, or they may not have been that dirty anyway, so will be OK.

Gear adjustment is first port of call.
A chain checker tool will tell you whether your chain is worn and there are plenty of videos on how to use one, they’re relatively cheap (under £10) and easy to use. That said, another way is to put your chain into the big ring and from the 9 o clock position, try to pull the chain away from the ring. There should be minimal movement. If there is daylight between the teeth of the chainring and the chain, change immediately.

It sounds from your description that it may be an indexing issue- so I’d try that first as the cable may be a little stretched.
Large chain wheel and smallest rear cog right? Done that and there is daylight between chain & wheel.
 
OP
OP
nmfeb70

nmfeb70

Senior Member
Location
Tonypandy, Wales
PS back pedalling can cause gear shifts - No idea why you would back pedal.

I'm still on my original cassette (rear gears) but second chain and large chain ring on my full suspension MTB - over 4 years, used in all weather.

The cassette and chain will need replacing before winter though.

That said, we don't know your cleaning regime with an MTB, and you could well have knackered the chain etc by not cleaning them, or they may not have been that dirty anyway, so will be OK.

Gear adjustment is first port of call.
I don't need to pedal backwards for it to change cogs. It happens when I'm freewheeling. As I mentioned in my post, I clean the chain after every ride & then apply a thin layer of lube.
 
  • Like
Reactions: C R

Juan Kog

permanently grumpy
I agree with Smokin Joe after 700 miles cable " stretch" is the likely culprit. Adjustment is quite straight forward YouTube will help or visit to LBS. Chain wear does seem unlikely with such a low mileage and your cleaning and lube regime . To repeat Noodle Legs comment a chain wear tool will settle the issue of a worn chain and it will be a usefull addition to your toolbox.
 
OP
OP
nmfeb70

nmfeb70

Senior Member
Location
Tonypandy, Wales
I agree with Smokin Joe after 700 miles cable " stretch" is the likely culprit. Adjustment is quite straight forward YouTube will help or visit to LBS. Chain wear does seem unlikely with such a low mileage and your cleaning and lube regime . To repeat Noodle Legs comment a chain wear tool will settle the issue of a worn chain and it will be a usefull addition to your toolbox.
Thanks.
 
OP
OP
nmfeb70

nmfeb70

Senior Member
Location
Tonypandy, Wales
Ok, shifting is nice and crisp. I've just got back from a ride, the clicking noise persists and the chain droops when I stop pedalling in the highest gear and then freewheel. The chain also slipped down a few cogs when going up hill. I've ordered a tool to check the chain but it all points to a worn chain.
 
Ok, shifting is nice and crisp. I've just got back from a ride, the clicking noise persists and the chain droops when I stop pedalling in the highest gear and then freewheel. The chain also slipped down a few cogs when going up hill. I've ordered a tool to check the chain but it all points to a worn chain.
They are not the symptoms of a worn chain but a sticking freehub. Wear will not cause the chain to droop or skip sprockets.
 
Top Bottom