Does anyone know how to stop cheap dual pivot brakes seizing...

[Acyclo]

The cheap (Tektro?) brakes on my Triban 3 are forever partially seizing in wet winter weather. Thorough cleaning and oiling (eeek) work, but has anybody got a secret? Other than 'get better brakes' natch.

As an aside, I'll be glad when road bike manufacturers can bring themselves to offer disks. I suspect the UCI has a part to play in this situation. 'Disk brakes? They're far too modern'. Handlebar moustaches and plus-fours all round.

 

[Amanda P]

I get that too. And all the bolts rust, right?

One thing that helps a little is to loosen each bolt a touch, squirt in some WD40 or GT85, work the joint a few dozen times, then squirt in something more greasy like aerosol Finish Line and work it a few more times. Then re-tighten the bolt just until the joint still moves. You'll have to remove the brake from the bike to do this, but at least this means you won't be squirting oil all over the brake pads and rims.

Without replacing all the rust-prone parts with high-grade stainless steel, you may just have to resign yourself to replacing them every couple of years, or else replace them with something posher and more corrosion-resistant (they seem to me to be straight copies of 105 brakes, and my bikes with 105 brakes have none of these problems).

 

[Dusty Bin]

You sure it's the calipers seizing, and not the cables? And for the record, lots of road bike manufacturers already offer disk models...

 

[Rohloff_Brompton_Rider]

I've just replaced a set with tiagra for the same reasons, much happier now and was cheap at £50.

 

[Acyclo]

You sure it's the calipers seizing, and not the cables? And for the record, lots of road bike manufacturers already offer disk models...

Yup and 'I hear Ernesto Colnago does a nice one. I'll get me credit card'.

 

[Banjo]

I am tempted by the Cannondale Synapse 105 disc . A bit cheaper and similar concept is the Fuji disc roadbike.
I think they are banned by UCI as could cause injuries in a crash either from burns or the bacon slicer effect

As most of us dont race I think it will depend on how much take up there is on disc models. If people buy enough of them we should see more disc model road bikes appear in the shops.

 

[accountantpete]

Caliper brakes work on much the same basis as cones in hubs.

The two arms are set up so that they open and close nicely without play and then a lock nut or grub screw is tightened up at the back of the arms.

When the big fixing nut tightens the brakes up to the frame it tightens up against the lock nut/grub screw section so that the brakes are firmly fixed to the frame but remain able to open and close easily.

What happens with some sets is that the lock nut/grub screw tends to slip very slightly through the force of braking and over time the arms become very stiff. You probably just need to undo the lock nut and re-set the arms and then re-tighten up.

 

[SatNavSaysStraightOn]

Slackening off that locknut and WD40 has worked wonders on the 2 Triban 3's in this household... though do check your brake cables, they may well have corroded as well and if they have not, we did find that the outer sheath was not in great condition on my OH's T3, so replacing that and plenty of lithium grease for lube has helped, but the locknut & WD40 made the most impact.

If you do decide to replace them, double check you can get your callipers off. Neither on my T3 will come off and only 1 on my OH's T3 (the rear) will come off. Hence we are both stuck with them literally!