Dover to Calais/Dunkirk

[teebs]

I'm planning a trip out across France to Strasbourg and then cycling back to the coast from there. I've been looking at getting the ferry after work from Dover to Calais/Dunkirk on a Friday to save on holiday allowance and then using TERs to get to Paris. The trains seem to work ok. I can get the 15.59 from Charing Cross to Dover (last train where bicycles are allowed) and then work on the train for the two hour journey. That gets to Dover at 17.53, so I figure leaving some room for error I can get a ferry that lets me check in from 7pm onwards.

Once I'm in France, Dunkirk and Calais are roughly as inconvenient as each other to get to Paris on local trains (I'm aware of the TER K trains from Calais not taking bikes). So my options seem to be one of the following:

DFDS 19:40 to Calais (check in until 18:40, arrives 22:10)
DFDS 20:00 to Dunkirk (check in until 19:00, arrives 23:00)
DFDS 21:10 to Calais (check in until 20:10, arrives 23:40)
P&O 20:25 to Calais (check in until 18:55, arrives 22:55) (I'd rather not use P&O because of their worker treatment last year).

I think the 19:40 is probably just a little bit too tight at the Dover end of things. Any delays on the train and it starts looking very difficult. So it's between the later Calais and Dunkirk services. I know Dunkirk port is some distance from Dunkirk city which is also a factor.

I was wondering if anyone had any thoughts or experience of this?
Is the route from Dunkirk port safe at night? I've gone the other way during the day and it was fine, but I've no idea what it's like after dark.
Is all of this crazy and I need to rethink?

Thanks!

 

[mjr]

If you avoid the Dunkirk coast road and do something like https://cycle.travel/map/journey/133343 (last used 2018, check for updates) then I doubt you'll have any trouble with people smugglers who surely target the truck routes towards the port, not those leaving. Good lights needed for the bit by the port, but you could let the trucks clear the area and ride the main road after them instead, if you prefer.

I've not done Calais new layout by bike, but the port is nearer town and its TER route to Paris looks shorter and easier than Dunkerque's.

 

[matticus]

Is all of this crazy and I need to rethink?

Yes ;-)

Have you ruled out the overnight crossing? (we used 5am arrival) Then you're in Dunkirk at breakfast time (if you want to eat there will be stuff open, I think even the station has some food?) It's a lovely time to be arriving on foreign soil, quiet roads and a new world to explore!

The compromise is: 1 terrible night's "sleep" -vs- 1 free night's accommodation!

 

[teebs]

Yes ;-)

Have you ruled out the overnight crossing? (we used 5am arrival) Then you're in Dunkirk at breakfast time (if you want to eat there will be stuff open, I think even the station has some food?) It's a lovely time to be arriving on foreign soil, quiet roads and a new world to explore!

The compromise is: 1 terrible night's "sleep" -vs- 1 free night's accommodation!

Ha, I haven't completely, but I don't function at all well without sleep so it's not super attractive.

 

[Brandane]

Is all of this crazy and I need to rethink?

+1 for yes!
My route of choice to France is with Brittany Ferries, Portsmouth to Ouistreham (Caen). The overnight ferry leaves about 11pm, allowing you plenty time to get there from London after work.
The crossing takes about 7 hours giving time for something to eat, a beer or 2 as you sail away, and a decent sleep too.
Cabins are available but not compulsory. Accommodation IS compulsory, but a £5 reclining chair counts as accommodation.
Best of all, no Calais or Dunkirk to contend with on arrival; instead you are onto a traffic free, well surfaced cycle path all the way into Caen (passing Pegasus Bridge on the way). From Caen, train to Paris!
I'll be on the Portsmouth to St. Malo ferry in a few weeks time for a tour, ending up at Caen for the return ferry.

 

[harlechjoe]

Like MRJ I followed the coast road from Dunkirk at night and found it safe. Whilst I was a solo cyclists I was in the company of other cyclists taking the same route. Invest in a good front light.

 

[teebs]

+1 for yes!
My route of choice to France is with Brittany Ferries, Portsmouth to Ouistreham (Caen). The overnight ferry leaves about 11pm, allowing you plenty time to get there from London after work.
The crossing takes about 7 hours giving time for something to eat, a beer or 2 as you sail away, and a decent sleep too.
Cabins are available but not compulsory. Accommodation IS compulsory, but a £5 reclining chair counts as accommodation.
Best of all, no Calais or Dunkirk to contend with on arrival; instead you are onto a traffic free, well surfaced cycle path all the way into Caen (passing Pegasus Bridge on the way). From Caen, train to Paris!
I'll be on the Portsmouth to St. Malo ferry in a few weeks time for a tour, ending up at Caen for the return ferry.

Thank you, Portsmouth to Caen hadn't occurred to me and I see that the TER to Paris is direct and more frequent, that's a great idea and I'll look into it.

 

[matticus]

Portsmouth to Caen hadn't occurred to me

NOW you tell us!!! :⁠-⁠P

Sheriously, I'd love to hear up-to-date info from you on the train leg to Paris, as that's one of my options for PBP in August.

(Previous years I've always cycled at least some of the way.)

 

[Brandane]

Thank you, Portsmouth to Caen hadn't occurred to me and I see that the TER to Paris is direct and more frequent, that's a great idea and I'll look into it.

If you do opt for Brittany Ferries - I have no idea of your budget, but if you don't want to stretch to a cabin, and if you are carrying camping gear anyway, then take your sleeping bag and mat into the reclining seat area. You can easily find an area of floor for your mat and sleeping bag, and it will be a lot more comfortable than the recliner. I speak from experience!

 

[teebs]

If you do opt for Brittany Ferries - I have no idea of your budget, but if you don't want to stretch to a cabin, and if you are carrying camping gear anyway, then take your sleeping bag and mat into the reclining seat area. You can easily find an area of floor for your mat and sleeping bag, and it will be a lot more comfortable than the recliner. I speak from experience!

TBH I'd probably just take the win of no hotel in Calais to fund a cabin!

NOW you tell us!!! :⁠-⁠P

Sheriously, I'd love to hear up-to-date info from you on the train leg to Paris, as that's one of my options for PBP in August.

(Previous years I've always cycled at least some of the way.)

I'll post an update once I do it in June.

I'm a bit edgy about the connection for the overnight ferry from Portsmouth, getting the first cycles permitted train after peak doesn't seem to leave a huge amount of leeway for delays, although more than my original plan.

I'm actually now leaning more towards just taking a half day off work, which would be a pity, but not the end of the world and then either getting to Portsmouth early and installing myself at a pub or going via Calais as originally planned.

 

[mjr]

I'm not sure but I think Dover -Dunkerque port -22 mile ride -De Panne SNCB -Ghent -Brussels Midi (not central, where bikes may not leave trains) -Luxembourg -Metz -Strasbourg may be an easier route because the trains are more frequent ( hourly for the first three services) and SNCB generally allow at least 10 bikes per train, but it does mean dealing with three operators in three countries with their different rules ( bikes need paid tickets in Belgium) and trusting they all work together crossborder when you're travelling, and overcoming things like a bossy root planner trying to send you via Liege on a difficult train for bikes because it's three minutes faster.

With SNCF, it looks like there are two Paris -Strasbourg trains a day that are good for bikes and two with two changes. Miss yours or find it full and you're waiting hours.

 

[teebs]

I'm not sure but I think Dover -Dunkerque port -22 mile ride -De Panne SNCB -Ghent -Brussels Midi (not central, where bikes may not leave trains) -Luxembourg -Metz -Strasbourg may be an easier route because the trains are more frequent ( hourly for the first three services) and SNCB generally allow at least 10 bikes per train, but it does mean dealing with three operators in three countries with their different rules ( bikes need paid tickets in Belgium) and trusting they all work together crossborder when you're travelling, and overcoming things like a bossy root planner trying to send you via Liege on a difficult train for bikes because it's three minutes faster.

With SNCF, it looks like there are two Paris -Strasbourg trains a day that are good for bikes and two with two changes. Miss yours or find it full and you're waiting hours.

Thanks for those thoughts. I'll look into it, albeit my current plan is to catch one of the bike-friendly TGV services to Strasbourg as they have reserved spots and so, I assume, are a safer bet (with TER services as a backup).

 

[JB052]

Whichever route you take, avoid 9th to 12th June as all ferries are busy with Le Mans 24 hour race supporters and are very busy.

 

[teebs]

In the end I've decided I can't be having with stress about tight connections and ending up stuck in Dover/Portsmouth/Calais. So I've just taken an extra half day off and will go to Dover on the Thursday evening after work, crash in a Premier Inn and then work through until 12:30. Then it's an easy afternoon ferry to Calais, evening TER to Amiens and on to Paris and then Strasbourg on Saturday (I've booked a bike spot on one of LGV Est TGVs). Thanks to everyone for all the advice.

 

[matticus]

Whichever route you take, avoid 9th to 12th June as all ferries are busy with Le Mans 24 hour race supporters and are very busy.

... and really rather noisy, as I recall (but in a good way - at least in small doses) !