drilling pedals

[ColinJ]

no, it was metal but quite thin metal.

That's why my LBS used a piece of scaffold pipe !

 

[Joe24]

nah sod it. new cranks it is.
I might try mickle's method of disassembling the pedal and putting it in a vice and taking a heavy pipe to it (I did try it with a piece of hoover pipe and a metre-and-a-half-long broom but they showed signs of being weaker than the interface i was trying to undo - especially on the crank arm's current movable state) - there is a vice in the garage, but it's not attached to anything. I might try and attach it to something and remove the pedal just to satisfy myself that it can be done and to have a spare pair of cranks but I've ordered everything i need to change the BB and cranks and the sprocket i've ordered (19t) is going to be a bit spinny with a 46er, will probably be under 65" whereas with a 48 it'll be 66.7".

46/19 was what i was on,(if your talking about fixed gearing) it was abit spinny, 65" it was.
I have 44/18 now which is 67" and that isnt too bad, thinking of upping it to 71" though soon.

 

[NickM]

Have you considered launching a piece of moon rock from a trebuchet aimed at the pedal spindle??

LOL, or to be seasonal, HOHOHO

 

[02GF74]

if the crank is alloy and spindle steel, the it can be undone.

LH pedal has LH thread, RH has RH thread.

heat the crank where the spindle screws in, 200 degree is plenty - alluminium alloy will expand more than steel, then whip on a spanner onto the flats - most pedals have flats die enough for conventional spanner to fit, put a damp rag onto the spindle which will rpaidly cool it (steel will contract) then a bit of tube for extra leverage and undo.

As for drilling, forget it - hardened steel and all that - you'll probably spend more money on drill bits than the price of new crank and spindle, not to mention no guarantee that you won't bugger up the crank.

 

[jayce]

after fixing apply a small amount of copper slip its anti seizing

 

[Danny]

Last year my pedals got stuck so fast that I couldn't remove them however much force I applied.

However I took my bike into my LBS and they were able to free them up, largely because they seemed to have industrial size pedal spanners which they could apply a lot more force with. It still took a lot of swearing as well.

So you might want to see if your LBS can help before you fork out on new cranks.

 

[bonj2]

Last year my pedals got stuck so fast that I couldn't remove them however much force I applied.

However I took my bike into my LBS and they were able to free them up, largely because they seemed to have industrial size pedal spanners which they could apply a lot more force with. It still took a lot of swearing as well.

So you might want to see if your LBS can help before you fork out on new cranks.

i have already forked out for new cranks but that doesn't mean i can't send them back unopened if i don't end up using them. They haven't got them in stock so have to order them in, better off that i kickstart that process now and have them there whether i need them or not, than NOT having them whether i need them or not.

 

[bonj2]

after fixing apply a small amount of copper slip its anti seizing

wow, thank you very much! I never knew that! If only i'd known that when the bike was built before i was born.

 

[tyred]

Old cranks were usually chrome plated after the threads were cut making the threads very tight even when they were new.

 

[mickle]

Old cranks were usually chrome plated after the threads were cut making the threads very tight even when they were new.

That may have been the case but since the plating material is reluctant to attach itself to inside surfaces I'm not sure how much of a factor it is/was. If you are electro plating a crank shaped object for example the inside surfaces of the object are in proximity to and therefore have access to fewer saturated molecules per cm2 than the outside surfaces. This combined with the way that the electrical current flows around such a shape can result in the external surfaces receiving plenty of plating whilst the inside receives none at all. Its the reason that chromed frames always rust in the area between the stays nearest the bottom bracket.

 

[Crackle]

This

The best option though would be to soak it in penetrating fluid overnight, dismantle the pedal, whack the axle in a vice and stick a length of pipe over the crank. Easy.

and this

Can you get the pedal off the axle, then apply some heat to the axle. The expansion of the steel can often aid removal.

With some cooling in the form of water. A few hot and cold cycles, some force in the vice and it will move. Have used the same technique loads of times, always works.

 

[Dave5N]

That may have been the case but since the plating material is reluctant to attach itself to inside surfaces I'm not sure how much of a factor it is/was. If you are electro plating a crank shaped object for example the inside surfaces of the object are in proximity to and therefore have access to fewer saturated molecules per cm2 than the outside surfaces. This combined with the way that the electrical current flows around such a shape can result in the external surfaces receiving plenty of plating whilst the inside receives none at all. Its the reason that chromed frames always rust in the area between the stays nearest the bottom bracket.

Explain again what a saturated molecule is in electroplating please Mickle?

 

[mickle]

I could grow to hate you Dave5N.

 

[Dave5N]

Calm down. breath.

Now, we need an appointment for some more counselling. I sense that you are regressing. I noted the return to a more aggresive signature with some concern.

Also, your £310 bill is unpaid.

 

[Chrisz]

So is it off yet???