Electric bike after a couple of months

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snailracer

Über Member
trickletreat said:
The Bionx kits offer regeneration when braking and going down hill.When set to max regeneration, it acts as a lock as well. Complex system and costly, does not match heinzmann for grunt on steep inclines either.

I don't think you get much extra battery life in real conditions either. If the reason to use a kit is to get back into cycling , you will find your fitness soon improves and as such you use less assistance from the motor, therefore extending use.
Regenerating systems do not have a mechanical freewheel, which makes unassisted pedalling hard work, as the motor "drags" slightly even when regen is disabled.
 

allen-uk

New Member
Location
London.
Dave: Bit of sideways thinking:- do you NEED to buy the full 'electric bike', or is it available in kit form.

Just struck me because my ordinary bike has all sorts of modifications to allow me to ride it easily (I've only got one leg), and while I COULD transfer all of them to a new bike, if it's easier the other way, i.e. putting a motor-hub on a wheel, fitting a 'throttle' device, and some sort of battery carrier, maybe it's worth considering.

Or maybe I'm missing other essential differences between the full electric bike and my own?

Allen, London.
 

palinurus

Velo, boulot, dodo
Location
Watford
I've certainly seen plenty of home-builds and conversions in A to B magazine over the years so it can be done. There are a number of kit type packages available but I don't know much about them or which have UK distribution.

This US site has a number of examples- I don't know how up to date it is.

http://www.bicycle-power.com/diykits.html
 

allen-uk

New Member
Location
London.
Thanks, palinurus. Having read the whole thread a bit more thoroughly (first time round I let my keenness get in the way of reading) I think the DIY approach is probably beyond me, and if I had to enlist the local bike shop (nice bloke) the price would mean that there wouldn't be a saving.

So, I think I've convinced myself to buy a readymade version.

When you're buying the bike from a dealer such as the one you used, Dave, can you specify the higher-capacity battery and thus get longer range?

And how do you stop the battery from getting nicked? Not that Norfolk is a hot-bed, but NW London (where I live) certainly is, and if it's not nailed down....


Allen.
 
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OP
Old timer

Old timer

Über Member
Location
Norfolk, UK
allen-uk said:
Thanks, palinurus. Having read the whole thread a bit more thoroughly (first time round I let my keenness get in the way of reading) I think the DIY approach is probably beyond me, and if I had to enlist the local bike shop (nice bloke) the price would mean that there wouldn't be a saving.

So, I think I've convinced myself to buy a readymade version.

When you're buying the bike from a dealer such as the one you used, Dave, can you specify the higher-capacity battery and thus get longer range?

And how do you stop the battery from getting nicked? Not that Norfolk is a hot-bed, but NW London (where I live) certainly is, and if it's not nailed down....


Allen.

Allen

You probably need to speak to me by phone so that I can run through all the points, send me a private message with a landline number if you want. If not! just shout and I`ll do my best to answer on here.

Dave
 

allen-uk

New Member
Location
London.
Dave:

Before I take you up on that very kind offer, perhaps we could try a few basic questions on here, mainly to save LOADS of your valuable time in putting me straight on the basics!

a) Starting on hills. I've only got one leg, which isn't a problem once I'm moving, and not a problem starting off on flat(-ish) ground, but IS a big problem on a hill. Would an electric bike help, or rather would it get me from zero to mobile without draining the battery completely?

:smile: Riding in the rain. A guy on the electric bike forum recommended Juicy Bikes, which look fine, but there is a caveat on their site against riding them in the rain. How true is this, or is it just covering backs?

c) Similarly, this one caught my eye:
http://www.juicybike.co.uk/sport.asp
Does that battery system look powerful enough to you? I'm a dunderhead when it comes to watts and volts (electric drills have always puzzled me).
I think I need the bike to help carry me on journeys of a maximum of 20 miles, often far less, and much of the time my leg(s) can do the work.

d) How feasible is it to carry a spare battery?

Info: I'm about as old as you (early 60s), not very fit, 5'10" (used to be 5'11" - what happened?), ride my manual bike occasionally, but not regularly, very heavy (17+ stone).

e) I really have abandoned the idea of converting my own bike. It was (without all the disabled add-ons) only about £150, so not an expensive machine although it's done me okay, and looking at the various clever bits on proper electric bikes (like the micros on the brakes that cut the power, and so on), I think I'm safer sticking with an off-the-shelf model.

f) Tyres. I note on the various pics of electric bikes that they all seem to have those 'tractor' tyres usually found on mountain bikes. My bike used to have those, and when I switched from them to (I think the name was) City Slicks, I found I needed 20% less effort to pedal! So are the chunky tyres essential for electric bikes because of the power that goes through them, or can you use 'ordinary' tyres?

g) Accessories, or rather transfers from my bike to an electric one. I have a few things which are essential to amputee riding: a Gravitydropper saddle, which takes the place of the existing seat-post; a crank-shortener, which bolts onto one crank and lets you position your pedal in a shorter position; pedals themselves, just big platforms with 'terror pins'. Any problems with moving bits from bike to bike?

That will do! Answer those for me, and I'll be very grateful, and I think I'll then have enough basic knowledge to move from total beginner to just beginner.

Thanks, Dave.


Allen, NW London.
 
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Old timer

Old timer

Über Member
Location
Norfolk, UK
Mark_Robson said:
Is 36kg an average weight for an electric bike?


No, more like 24-28
 

allen-uk

New Member
Location
London.
Dave: I've only just seen your thread on the electric bike's forum about your current problems, and the last thing I want to do is to add to them by hassling you - so if you'd rather stay away from the computer/keyboard for a while, I shall quite understand.

Priorities, right?

Allen.
 
OP
OP
Old timer

Old timer

Über Member
Location
Norfolk, UK
allen-uk said:
Dave:

Before I take you up on that very kind offer, perhaps we could try a few basic questions on here, mainly to save LOADS of your valuable time in putting me straight on the basics!

a) Starting on hills. I've only got one leg, which isn't a problem once I'm moving, and not a problem starting off on flat(-ish) ground, but IS a big problem on a hill. Would an electric bike help, or rather would it get me from zero to mobile without draining the battery completely?
Push with good leg whilst opening throttle or just open throttle to get you going( hill with in reason) no big drain on battery.
:bicycle: Riding in the rain. A guy on the electric bike forum recommended Juicy Bikes, which look fine, but there is a caveat on their site against riding them in the rain. How true is this, or is it just covering backs?
Covering backs but not having seen them I`m not sure how waterproof the fittings are on them. I ran around my controller with a silicon gun to seal it.

c) Similarly, this one caught my eye:
http://www.juicybike.co.uk/sport.asp
Does that battery system look powerful enough to you? I'm a dunderhead when it comes to watts and volts (electric drills have always puzzled me).
I think I need the bike to help carry me on journeys of a maximum of 20 miles, often far less, and much of the time my leg(s) can do the work.
That has a 36V 250W motor just like my alien and is plenty powerful. If it`s a decent battery then I reckon in average temps you`ll get a bout 30 miles or so using pedal assist less of course if you use throttle only. If you fitted a rear rack you could carry a spare battery with the same connector( that one looks like a kettle plug) or you could invest in a Lipo4 battery from china with a much higher Amp (you can get a 36V 20Amp Lipo4 for instance for around £300 delivered) that would give you twice the distance that the supplied 10Amp one would. You`d probably be better to just buy a second battery when you bought the bike and keep it on a rack in a suitable bag and just change it over when needed. That way you could use the supplied default charger. Charging takes between 4-6 hrs from flat.
d) How feasible is it to carry a spare battery?
Easy

Info: I'm about as old as you (early 60s), not very fit, 5'10" (used to be 5'11" - what happened?), ride my manual bike occasionally, but not regularly, very heavy (17+ stone).

e) I really have abandoned the idea of converting my own bike. It was (without all the disabled add-ons) only about £150, so not an expensive machine although it's done me okay, and looking at the various clever bits on proper electric bikes (like the micros on the brakes that cut the power, and so on), I think I'm safer sticking with an off-the-shelf model.
When you convert a bike, you remove exisitng brake levers and fit the ones supplied that have built in micros switches
f) Tyres. I note on the various pics of electric bikes that they all seem to have those 'tractor' tyres usually found on mountain bikes. My bike used to have those, and when I switched from them to (I think the name was) City Slicks, I found I needed 20% less effort to pedal! So are the chunky tyres essential for electric bikes because of the power that goes through them, or can you use 'ordinary' tyres?
Some come with nobblers some come with road tyres, I changed all of mine over to Marathon plus road tyres.Any tyre that fits rim can be used no problems.

g) Accessories, or rather transfers from my bike to an electric one. I have a few things which are essential to amputee riding: a Gravitydropper saddle, which takes the place of the existing seat-post; a crank-shortener, which bolts onto one crank and lets you position your pedal in a shorter position; pedals themselves, just big platforms with 'terror pins'. Any problems with moving bits from bike to bike?

You would have to make sure the seat tube was the same diam obviously but then no problems.
No problem moving bit`s around(most E bikes are just standard stuff with a electric hub, a battery and a controller and the rest is normal bike gear.)
Depends on the crank fitting, a lot are square tapered drive but you would have to check what the bike you were buying was.

That will do! Answer those for me, and I'll be very grateful, and I think I'll then have enough basic knowledge to move from total beginner to just beginner.

Thanks, Dave.


Allen, NW London.

Batteries normally lock in position and most have an ignition key.

Dave
 
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Old timer

Old timer

Über Member
Location
Norfolk, UK
allen-uk said:
Dave: I've only just seen your thread on the electric bike's forum about your current problems, and the last thing I want to do is to add to them by hassling you - so if you'd rather stay away from the computer/keyboard for a while, I shall quite understand.

Priorities, right?

Allen.

I`m OK Allen.
 

trickletreat

Veteran
Location
solihull
Hi Allen and Dave,

I've only just stumbled across this thread again. Hope I can help some.

Allen, you mention starting on hills, I think you would find a throttle controller handy, i.e twist and you are away, that way you would not have to start pedalling to gain assistance, and get your balance and momentum faster, and more safely...so throttle control over pedelec.

I agree with Dave on your other questions. If you have a specific bike in mind that you would like converted, then Steve at http://www.electricmountainbikes.com/ is very helpful and reasonable. With your specific requirements he can build up a bike on a one off basis, without braking the bank.

The kits he uses are mostly transferable, he built me an electric mountain bike, used for over 1000miles all weathers towing my daughter to school. I then moved the kit to a trike...again used for 1000 miles, all weathers. Its now back on the mtb again. The refitting was very straight forward, if you can take a back wheel off a bike fitted with a derailleur, take a handlebar grip on and off and use zip ties or velcro, then you can fit a kit yourself. Even easier if you have a front wheel kit.

Have you considered an electric recumbent trike? Great for stability, no problem stopping and starting on hills...and dead easy to tow a trailer.

Happy to help if I can.
Nigel
 

Mycroft

New Member
great thread!

I'd love an electric bike. My knees have been playing up since last year and i REALLY want to go touring, but I'm starting to worry that big miles won't be possible (health is not the best) so electric would be great.

the only thing holding me back would be the touring angle, I have no idea if the electric outlet on caravan sites would charge an e bike, would anyone have any idea?

I'm off to read some of those links, and start plotting about the spare MTB out in the shed!! :becool:
 
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