Dave:
Before I take you up on that
very kind offer, perhaps we could try a few basic questions on here, mainly to save LOADS of your valuable time in putting me straight on the basics!
a) Starting on hills. I've only got one leg, which isn't a problem once I'm moving, and not a problem starting off on flat(-ish) ground, but IS a big problem on a hill. Would an electric bike help, or rather would it get me from zero to mobile without draining the battery completely?
Push with good leg whilst opening throttle or just open throttle to get you going( hill with in reason) no big drain on battery.

Riding in the rain. A guy on the electric bike forum recommended Juicy Bikes, which look fine, but there is a caveat on their site against riding them in the rain. How true is this, or is it just covering backs?
Covering backs but not having seen them I`m not sure how waterproof the fittings are on them. I ran around my controller with a silicon gun to seal it.
c) Similarly, this one caught my eye:
http://www.juicybike.co.uk/sport.asp
Does that battery system look powerful enough to you? I'm a dunderhead when it comes to watts and volts (electric drills have always puzzled me).
I think I need the bike to help carry me on journeys of a maximum of 20 miles, often
far less, and much of the time my leg(s) can do the work.
That has a 36V 250W motor just like my alien and is plenty powerful. If it`s a decent battery then I reckon in average temps you`ll get a bout 30 miles or so using pedal assist less of course if you use throttle only. If you fitted a rear rack you could carry a spare battery with the same connector( that one looks like a kettle plug) or you could invest in a Lipo4 battery from china with a much higher Amp (you can get a 36V 20Amp Lipo4 for instance for around £300 delivered) that would give you twice the distance that the supplied 10Amp one would. You`d probably be better to just buy a second battery when you bought the bike and keep it on a rack in a suitable bag and just change it over when needed. That way you could use the supplied default charger. Charging takes between 4-6 hrs from flat.
d) How feasible is it to carry a spare battery?
Easy
Info: I'm about as old as you (early 60s), not very fit, 5'10" (used to be 5'11" - what happened?), ride my manual bike occasionally, but not regularly, very heavy (17+ stone).
e) I really have abandoned the idea of converting my own bike. It was (without all the disabled add-ons) only about £150, so not an expensive machine although it's done me okay, and looking at the various clever bits on proper electric bikes (like the micros on the brakes that cut the power, and so on), I think I'm safer sticking with an off-the-shelf model.
When you convert a bike, you remove exisitng brake levers and fit the ones supplied that have built in micros switches
f) Tyres. I note on the various pics of electric bikes that they all seem to have those 'tractor' tyres usually found on mountain bikes. My bike used to have those, and when I switched from them to (I think the name was) City Slicks, I found I needed 20% less effort to pedal! So are the chunky tyres essential for electric bikes because of the power that goes through them, or can you use 'ordinary' tyres?
Some come with nobblers some come with road tyres, I changed all of mine over to Marathon plus road tyres.Any tyre that fits rim can be used no problems.
g) Accessories, or rather transfers from my bike to an electric one. I have a few things which are essential to amputee riding: a Gravitydropper saddle, which takes the place of the existing seat-post; a crank-shortener, which bolts onto one crank and lets you position your pedal in a shorter position; pedals themselves, just big platforms with 'terror pins'. Any problems with moving bits from bike to bike?
You would have to make sure the seat tube was the same diam obviously but then no problems.
No problem moving bit`s around(most E bikes are just standard stuff with a electric hub, a battery and a controller and the rest is normal bike gear.)
Depends on the crank fitting, a lot are square tapered drive but you would have to check what the bike you were buying was.
That will do! Answer those for me, and I'll be very grateful, and I think I'll then have enough basic knowledge to move from total beginner to just beginner.
Thanks, Dave.
Allen, NW London.