Everlasting bike? Cranks? Anything else?

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scotsbikester

Well-Known Member
9 speed was never very popular for everyday hybrid bikes in the way that 8 speed was. You can get 9 speed hybrids but at upper midmarket levels, not lower levels.
You can buy almost anything online but in bike shops I would hazard a guess that 9 speed will become unavailable before 8 speed.

I see, thanks. My "local bike shop" is actually Spa Cycles in Harrogate, who I think (hope) might well support 9 speed when other people have stopped.
 
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scotsbikester

Well-Known Member
In due course you might consider getting TRP Spyres (vice Avids) to match the quality of the other components: ha'p'orth o' tar, an' all that.
I thin the chances of 9sp cassettes ceasing production are the SRoFA.

Thanks. I researched the disk brakes in some depth. The general opinion is that BB7s are the best cable disk brakes, and probably better than Spyres, at least in terms of robustness and longevity. I've had mine in pieces, and the basic quality seems simple and good. I've had no problems with mine, at least since I got levers that work properly with them. They seem to be about £50+ a pop. So I'll keep my eyes peeled for bargains and bag a couple of spares sometime.

EDIT: The One other option for cable disk brakes is Paul Klampers, but that's a fair bit of an investment.
 
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scotsbikester

Well-Known Member
In due course you might consider getting TRP Spyres (vice Avids) to match the quality of the other components: ha'p'orth o' tar, an' all that.
I thin the chances of 9sp cassettes ceasing production are the SRoFA.

OK, I've googled it and scratched my head. I'm fairly sure that SRoFA doesn't mean "Soft-Spoken Restless Outstanding Frank Adept"

http://fullyexpanded.com/abbreviation/srofa.html:
But what does it stand for? I assume it means something like "very remote".
 
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scotsbikester

Well-Known Member
Although I'm no user of discs, my overwhelming impression from reading on here and elsewhere is the opposite, and Spyres are better, by some distance. Interesting...

Well, a quick search for "problems with Spyre brakes" and the same for "problems with BB7 brakes", both bring up plenty of results. As you would expect.

At first I was underwhelmed with the braking performance (BB7s). Not rubbish, just not as good as V brakes I was used to, or even the much maligned drum brakes on a Carrera Subway 8. But not like - "wow, disc brakes are amaaazzziiinnnggg"

I am sure it was because I initially had "modern" Shimano STIs (Sora). When I replaced them with "old" Shimano STIs (Ultegra 6510s), there was a dramatic improvement. I think this is because Shimano changed the brake cable pull on road levers, around 2008, if I remember correctly.

Now I can lock up the wheels easily from the drops, and with a little effort from the hoods. Though obviously I haven't spent a lot of time trying to lock up the front wheel, as I don't want to end my modelling career. But the brakes do what I want. After all, if you can lock up the wheels, they're powerful enough, yes? "Modulation" seems good. I know how to adjust them. They squeal a bit when they're wet. But my experience is positive. I don't feel there's any need to change them.

I'm not going to redo all the research I did before. So from memory the problems with the Spyre were a poor cable clamp system, water and dirt ingress causing corrosion, and perhaps flexible calipers.

Cheers.
 
Well, a quick search for "problems with Spyre brakes" and the same for "problems with BB7 brakes", both bring up plenty of results. As you would expect.

At first I was underwhelmed with the braking performance (BB7s). Not rubbish, just not as good as V brakes I was used to, or even the much maligned drum brakes on a Carrera Subway 8. But not like - "wow, disc brakes are amaaazzziiinnnggg"

I am sure it was because I initially had "modern" Shimano STIs (Sora). When I replaced them with "old" Shimano STIs (Ultegra 6510s), there was a dramatic improvement. I think this is because Shimano changed the brake cable pull on road levers, around 2008, if I remember correctly.

Now I can lock up the wheels easily from the drops, and with a little effort from the hoods. Though obviously I haven't spent a lot of time trying to lock up the front wheel, as I don't want to end my modelling career. But the brakes do what I want. After all, if you can lock up the wheels, they're powerful enough, yes? "Modulation" seems good. I know how to adjust them. They squeal a bit when they're wet. But my experience is positive. I don't feel there's any need to change them.

I'm not going to redo all the research I did before. So from memory the problems with the Spyre were a poor cable clamp system, water and dirt ingress causing corrosion, and perhaps flexible calipers.

Cheers.
Cool, fair enough. Definitely need the correct cable pull. I'm certainly one for getting the max out my brakes, it's great when you get them just so.
 
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scotsbikester

Well-Known Member
Just to repeat (part of) my original question. Do square taper cranks break or "wear out" in some mysterious way? I daresay they'll always be available, but given that different cranks need different bottom bracket spindle lengths, and I've invested a bit in high quality bottom brackets of the right length for the ones I've got now, I'd rather not end up with redundant BBs.

I also use slightly shorter than usual crank arms (165mm).

Cheers.
 
Just to repeat (part of) my original question. Do square taper cranks break or "wear out" in some mysterious way? I daresay they'll always be available, but given that different cranks need different bottom bracket spindle lengths, and I've invested a bit in high quality bottom brackets of the right length for the ones I've got now, I'd rather not end up with redundant BBs.

I also use slightly shorter than usual crank arms (165mm).

Cheers.

ST cranks can break at any weak spot but midrange Shimano ones are probably the strongest ones : cold forged, no weight weenie shedding of material.
 
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scotsbikester

Well-Known Member
ST cranks can break at any weak spot but midrange Shimano ones are probably the strongest ones : cold forged, no weight weenie shedding of material.

Thanks. My current ones are Spa's XD-2:

https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m8b0s109p2003/SPA-CYCLES-XD-2-Touring-Cranks

They are "based on" the Sugino ones, according to Spa. I think Spa, being a touring cyclist orientated shop, would probably go for robustness over light weight. I'm assuming (incorrectly?) that a five bolt pattern is stronger than a four bolt pattern.
 

Ajax Bay

Guru
Location
East Devon
Slightly worryingly, @scotsbikester , I too have "snagged" several UN-55s to see me to 'the end' and have an XD-2 triple chainset ready to fit to my new frame, together with other 9sp drivetrain items (with a set of STIs and derailleurs to spare). Have you been having a sly peek in my 'box'?
I think we need to know more about the wheels (besides 622, 135mm OLD and discs). Is their internal rim width enough? What tyres will you run? After all it's clear that tubes will stop being produced once all tyres are tubeless: so you need to be prepared for that.
 

fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
As someone who runs two old vintage 8 speed road bikes, the only spares are a few sprockets, some cartridge bearings for headsets. No need for anything else. Even my 30 year old MTB with LX and XT I don't worry.

I have a spare chainring for the LX chainset as its an un-common BCD.

I probably have more spares for the much more modern full suspension bike.
 
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Location
Brussels
Miche are still happily producing Campagnolo or Shimano compatible cassettes in both 8 and 9 speed: good quality and in the case of the campag compatible ones, much cheaper.
 

Sallar55

Veteran
TA still do a nice triple chainset, have the zephyr on the tandem. They do road and mtb triples, have them on my touring bikes.
 
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