First puncture...

[SkipdiverJohn]

My Schwalbe Big Apple tyres are not as tough as M+ but pretty resilliant. My 20" trailer ones are leaking due to a friction caused slow leak.
Modern tyres are brilliant.

I've been Fairy-free for over a year on Delta Cruiser+ and original Marathons, both Schwalbe Level 5 protected. I'm a big fan of both and they are wearing well too. I'm expecting several thousand miles at least before I need to replace them. Haven't been tempted by M+ due to the significant extra weight and the fact that M+ would cost more than the bikes I would be fitting them to!

 

[Kell]

Well, as it happens, when I got down to the car park tonight my tyre was down again.

I tried pumping it up, but I could hear a hissing.

Took it off, checked the repair i’d made earlier and couldn’t hear or see (with the aid of some spittle) any air escaping.

Turns out the valve was also fecked.

Luckily I do carry a spare tube, so I binned the other one.

Annoying though. As it meant I missed the train I was aiming for, then the one after that and the one I did get was delayed due to the football at Wem-ber-ley.

 

[Slick]

Murphy's Law, innit.

 

[bonker]

If you think a puncture on a Brommie is a pain wait until the rear mudguard breaks. Fitting the new one reminded me of building an Airfix model as a kid.

 

[Kell]

Had that too.

Wasn’t that much of a bind.

Although I sort of knew what I was doing as I had dismantled the rear brake in the past as it was sticking.

Used it as an excuse to switch to the black edition mudguards front and rear.

 

[simongt]

Are tyres on small wheels more prone to punctures?

The simple laws of physics tell us that a wee tyre will rotate more often over a given distance than a larger diameter tyre, so thus it will be presenting itself to potential puncture opportunities more.

 

[Kell]

I'm not sure that rings entirely true.

Each part of the tyre will be presenting itself more often, so if you had a thin spot on the tyre, you might be more likely to get a puncture because that part of the tyre will be in contact with the road more frequently.

But all other things being the same, I don't think there are more potential opportunities per se.

Mind you, I failed my A-level physics, so what do I know?

 

[Tenkaykev]

I suppose that as a smaller wheel needs more rotations to cover a given distance then that would mean more wear on the wheel bearings and tyres.
I don't know if there is a recommended replacement mileage for the Brompton wheel bearings / sprockets etc.

 

[12boy]

I suppose that as a smaller wheel needs more rotations to cover a given distance then that would mean more wear on the wheel bearings and tyres.
I don't know if there is a recommended replacement mileage for the Brompton wheel bearings / sprockets etc.

The 1-2 speed wheels have cartridge bearings and easily got at freewhel pawls. The single wall front wheels and the Sturmey hubs do not. Perhaps it is different where you are, but I couldn't get new cones for my front wheel so I bought a bare hub and later, on sale, a new wheel. For this reason, I would replace the ball bearings and repack the grease annually in the front wheel so as to make the cones and cup last as long as possible. I have found the 349 Schwalbe marathons to last a long time, longer than 406 Kendas, for example, and with Stans Sealant in the inner tubes to be pretty much flat free.

 

[oldwheels]

My first puncture on Brompton was similar to the OP in that it was on the underside of the tube and caused by the rim tape not being fitted properly from new. It was off to one side and eventually caused what looked like a split. Naturally it was on the back wheel of a 6 speed so a bit of a faff until I found the best way to remove and replace the wheel.

 

[kais01]

have yet after 20 years to replace any hub parts or bearings on a brompton. avoid high pressure washing, extend the front mudflap almost down to tarmac, and you are fine.

punctures are there, but not a great problem. if i puncture on the rear i leave the wheel on the bike, take the tube out just where the puncture is, and fix it. sometimes on the roadside. it is a five-minute-affair. dont forget to take the nail or whatever away from the inside of the tyre.

puncture risk is increased with high pressure and thin tyres, not with smaller wheels. as low as 3.5-4 bars /50-60 psi with brompton 32 mm tyres still roll really well, gives good grip on wet tarmac, and tend to minimise punctures.

but small rims definitely wear their brake surface faster, and i have to renew my brompton rims more often for that reason.