Landslide
Rare Migrant
- Location
- Called to the bar
I'd guess it'd be easier with a longer gear, as for a given speed your cadence would be lower (he says with no proof either way!).
Fixed with no brakes. How do you stop?
- Thread starter Disgruntled Goat
- Start date
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I can't see that stopping effort is affected by what gear you're in on a fixed wheel - just crank length, speed and weight (says Mr Papershuffling Lawyer, who knows didddly squat about mechanics).
My fixies always have front and back brakes with plenty of bite. It's pretty hilly in Yorkshire and I don't see the sense in turning my legs into egg whisks on my way down the Chevin or ripping my triceps off at the bottom. In fact without brakes there would be a lot of routes I just couldn't do.
My fixies always have front and back brakes with plenty of bite. It's pretty hilly in Yorkshire and I don't see the sense in turning my legs into egg whisks on my way down the Chevin or ripping my triceps off at the bottom. In fact without brakes there would be a lot of routes I just couldn't do.
OP
OP
Disgruntled Goat
New Member
- Location
- On top of the World
I think I have identified the problem.
Plastic toe clips without straps. That would make things tricky.
Plastic toe clips without straps. That would make things tricky.
ASC1951 said:
A larger gear will take more effort to stop when it is unweighted, making it harder to start the skid.
A gear in the 70s should be fine once you have the technique. If it doesn't work, and your feet are still on the pedals, you need to get the wheel more unweighted. Crotch to the stem is the way I learned it. Obviously, thats an exaggeration, but it gives you an idea of the movement when you try it.
BentMikey
Rider of Seolferwulf
- Location
- South London
I was about to say that fixed with no brakes on the road equals evolution in action, but maybe that cuts a bit close to home with my skates!!!
Smokin Joe
Legendary Member
- Location
- Bare headed cyclist, Smoker
You've all missed the real method of stopping a brakeless fixed wheel, which has become a dying art lost to the fashion fixies of today. You always wear mitts or gloves, and like the six day riders of old used to do when they needed to be relayed back into the action quickly after a short recovery round the banking you press the palm of your hand firmly down on the front tyre. Surprisingly effective when combined with back pressure on the pedals, and the real reason why trak mitts have a re-enforced section on the palm.
And anyone who fits a back brake to a fixed wheel bike should add stabalisers as well. IT JUST AIN'T DONE!
And anyone who fits a back brake to a fixed wheel bike should add stabalisers as well. IT JUST AIN'T DONE!
Start practicing in small hops/skips at slow speed when it's wet/damp. It's a specific skill that you wont learn unless you practice. Probably better to start with a gearing of 70" or below. When I was riding regularly, I could skid my track gearing (86"), but it took some determination!...and after a few weeks off the bike, I was struggling with my regular 76".
You can ride in normal situations perfectly safely without any other brakes, but I still prefer a front brake for lazy days and emergencies!
Stopping distances *are* shorter with a front brake.
You can ride in normal situations perfectly safely without any other brakes, but I still prefer a front brake for lazy days and emergencies!
Stopping distances *are* shorter with a front brake.
spandex
I love Dr D
Mr joe have you ridden fixed?
Smokin Joe
Legendary Member
- Location
- Bare headed cyclist, Smoker
Not for years, but extensively at one time as all clubmen had a fixed wheel bike in their armoury. Rode TT's on them too.spandex said:
spandex
I love Dr D
yer thats how I split my kneecap thanks for the recap.
