Flat bar widths and shoulder width.

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SkipdiverJohn

Deplorable Brexiteer
Location
London
What's the Forum's view on how wide a set of flat bars should be in relation to either the build of the rider or the size of frame or length of top tube? Is there any recognised fitting rule of thumb? Bike primarily intended for road use so don't need the leverage of very wide bars for rough terrain.
I've been comparing my two recent skip salvage efforts; one is a 19" frame with approx 21 1/2" stem to seatpost centres which has 22" wide bars, the other is a 22" frame with approx. 23" stem to seatpost centres but has 24 1/2" wide bars. I'm just under 6 ft with fairly broad shoulders.
The smaller one is maybe a little undersized but comfortable enough for local use. The bigger frame fits better but the 24 1/2" bars feel unnaturally wide, I'm rather tempted to get the hacksaw out and cut them down slightly, thinking maybe they need to be somewhere between 23" and 23 1/2"? My thinking is I'd get better comfort yet still maintain some consistent ratio between the bar and frame dimensions, as the way I look at it a bike with a bigger frame size needs to have other things dimensioned roughly in proportion.
 
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lazyfatgit

Guest
Location
Lawrence, NSW
Ive just recently got a mtb and the bars are massive. Just been riding with hands positioned closer to the midfle of the bars whilst on road.
Reluctant to modify as the stem is short and apparently wider bars give more control with a short stem on the trails.

Riding up steep hills leaning fotward to stop the wheel lifting the wide bars definately help with elbows sticking out.

Really depends what you're comfortable with.
 

Jody

Stubborn git
The bigger frame fits better but the 24 1/2" bars feel unnaturally wide, .

620mm bars aren't overly wide. I'm 5'5 and run 760's on a small frame with a 50mm stem which gives a good feel without being too wide. I don't think there is a rule to what width bar on any given frame but rather what suites your riding style and purpose.

Move your grips and levers round first to find out what suites you then cut them down.
 

Randy Butternubs

Über Member
Counterpoint to @Jody : I'm 6'2 and found my bars a little wide so I cut an inch or so off each side to get them down to 56cm/22". I find it a bit more comfortable and it's much easier getting through doors.

Bear in mind that the width of the bars (along with reach etc) dictates the angle your hands meet it at.

+1 on moving controls around first to see what you like before cutting and make sure you leave enough length for all the gubbins you want to put on!
 
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SkipdiverJohn

Deplorable Brexiteer
Location
London
Counterpoint to @Jody : I'm 6'2 and found my bars a little wide so I cut an inch or so off each side to get them down to 56cm/22". I find it a bit more comfortable and it's much easier getting through doors. Bear in mind that the width of the bars (along with reach etc) dictates the angle your hands meet it at.

The issue of width going through doorways and squeezing through gaps is an important one. There's a fairly narrow cycle path near me which riders tend to use in both directions and two opposing bikes both with wide bars would be a tight squeeze in passing without clashing.
When I swing my arms in an arc over my head and see where they naturally come to rest on the 24 1/2" bars. they do fall slightly inboard of the bar ends.
I agree about the fashion comments, a lot of things on both bikes and cars seem to be done for show rather than for any practical reason of functionality. Fake spoilers, big wide low profile tyres on alloy rims fitted to school run 4x4's etc....
 

summerdays

Cycling in the sun
Location
Bristol
One of my bikes has narrower bars than the other. and there are some of those barriers on cycle paths that I can cycle through in one bike and not the other.

I did have the narrower ones cut down by the LBS by an inch at least on each side. I kept noticing that I had my hands positioned right upto the levers.

I don't think the proportions of the bikes bother me - just what feels right.
 
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SkipdiverJohn

Deplorable Brexiteer
Location
London
You don't want flat bars, you want drops.:rolleyes:

Not on a bike that may get ridden in traffic I don't. Back in my teenage days I had drops on my Raleigh Arena 5 speed, and 99% of my miles were clocked up with me sitting up using the tops of the bars and the extension levers on the brakes. The only time I would ever use the drop position was if I was trying to make good time into a headwind and I would still only do it on roads where the traffic wasn't too dodgy. I reckon riding in a dropped position seriously reduces your view of the road compared with an upright stance, and compromises safety.
Only this week, a colleague at work driving in central London witnessed some Lycra Clown on a drop bar bike with all the gear on smash hard into the back of a Transit van that he had completely failed to notice had stopped in the traffic. The idiot apparently then wedged his head between the side of the van and a bus, much to the entertainment of onlookers.
 

Heltor Chasca

Out-riding the Black Dog
Wide bars snag on trees and grass. I always cut them down, but as you say whatever suits your style.

In the rainforests of South West England, liana vines are becoming quite a serious problem. I have cricked my neck twice getting snagged on one and I once knocked Bagheera out of a tree. Not happy. He moved to Exmoor as a result.
 

Threevok

Growing old disgracefully
Location
South Wales
Bars on the Avalanche are cut down to 680mm with a 110mm stem

The bars on the Virtue are uncut at 800mm with a 90mm stem

The GT is (a bit) better at getting through control gates on commute, but not as good as the Virtue on steep climbs, nor does it have same stability at low speed through technical stuff.

Neither would be any good at weaving through traffic and narrow spaces though
 
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