raleighnut
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Yes it's a skip when done.
That will cost nearly as much as the new floor!!
Yes it's a skip when done.
That will cost nearly as much as the new floor!!
I have a set of identical photos! Taken last November from a 1860's terrace cottage in Broadstairs
We ended up removing the entire floor and joists, front door to back door, including the internal hall wall.
We found that no two floor joists matched, so must have been built using recycled timber originally.
We also found the hall wall was built on top of the floor, with no piles down to the foundations! When the floor was removed the wall was just hanging from the ceiling.
We put down 6" of pea gravel, replaced all the joists with new treated timber, and put treated slabs over the top and then laminate on top.
Costs including rewiring, new lighting, new internal wall, rat removal, rubbish removal, total redecoration etc probably did not leave change from £10k, we also replaced the windows, bathroom and kitchen whist we were at it, so a bit difficult to seperate out the floor cost from the 32k bill
It would be worth your while getting a 5l tin of cuprinol five star rot treatment and giving the whole oversite a blast through a pressure pot . Also make sure your air bricks are cleaned out so you have ventilation under the floor when you put it back . Adding extra air bricks is also a good idea or beefing up the old ones . Another good practice when rot has been found is to dig a french gully on the outside of the building and back fill it with pea shingle . Belt and braces job if you do all three
Probably got wet because the air bricks got blocked up over the years . There will also be spores still left in there no matter how well you have cleaned it .Well its taken 82 years to get a bit of damp so ill just do the floor and let someone in 2100 sort it.
The problem is down to the support walls not having any damp proof as the timbers sat straight on the lime sand mix so they have sucked up the moisture from a few years of being very wet.
The new timbers will be on a dpc
Air bricks are fine ,its also 9 inch on a 200 mm thick footing on clay.Probably got wet because the air bricks got blocked up over the years . There will also be spores still left in there no matter how well you have cleaned it .
I did my carpentry and joinery apprenticeship with a dry rot , wet rot & wood worm company . Its very worth your while doing the air bricks and chemical treatment while you can or your work may not last as long as you hope .
Back in the day we used to spray everything with a borate solution . You had to leave your house and remove any pets for two daysAir bricks are fine ,its also 9 inch on a 200 mm thick footing on clay.
I may look at a treatment but anything that causes a stink will send the wife mad,i cant be folk ng arsed with most things due to her control problem...
Back in the day we used to spray everything with a borate solution . You had to leave your house and remove any pets for two days
Good airflow is the major point though . With good air flow rot cant start .
Same issues here mate , mine was built in 1932I need to alter a fall on the driveway paving to move water away from the right corner.
Its sunk a little so heavy rain does put water into the gravel along the wall.
But keeping the clay moist below the footing has its benefits too.
Ive got solid timber that grips nails like a grippy thing!!
Ive remove everything rotten or suffering rot.
I'll look at increasing air flow but when you consider the kitchen had a soil floor with rosemary tiles that blocked all the side air bricks I'm sort of used to damp.
All the neighbours have the same problems.
Just how they were built in 1935.