Frame size

[Lincon Jackson]

Well the new bike came today. It took me ages to put it together and set it correctly. But all the gears are working well now. I was a bit shocked with the stopping quality of the breaks although it must be said I am now used to hydraulic disk breaks now. The main ongoing problem is the size of the frame. I purchased a size 56 knowing that being 5' 10" - ish this is at the very top end of my size requirements. But as we all know all bikes a bit different so I was hopeing I would get away with it. The height is fine as a like a long pedel reach but the length from seat to handle bar feels a little uncomfortable. For example break levers feel a little out of reach when the STIs feel comfortable when climbing and when breaks feel comfortable STIs feel too far forward and in general what ever the position I do feel like I am stretching to the handle bars. I have tried to rectify by moving the seat as far forward as possible and changing the stem. The bike came with a flat stem at 130mm I have change it for a riser but still at the same length - these relatively simple changes have helped. Question here ??

Does any know if by reducing stem size to smallest possible and keep the rise this will help further? Or any other ideas on how I could reduce reach

Or

Is it possible that my riding position is basically correct and because I have not been on a road bike for donkeys that I am worry about nothing?

 

[Sittingduck]

Can you slide the saddle fwd a touch. Swapping out the stem for a 100 or 110 should do it too but the shorter the stem the twitchier the front end will be. Having said that, I have ridden with 90mm stems before and it was ok.

 

[Lincon Jackson]

Yeh, I have moved the saddle as far forward as possible. But changing current 130mm stem for a 90mm stem = saving of 40mm which is nothing to be scoffed at?

 

[ianrauk]

I went from 110 to 90mm stem and found it no more twitchy.

 

[Sittingduck]

130 > 90 is a big jump. I would be inclined to try something in the middle, at first. You should notice quite a difference, with a fairly small reduction.

 

[Rob3rt]

Yeh, I have moved the saddle as far forward as possible. But changing current 130mm stem for a 90mm stem = saving of 40mm which is nothing to be scoffed at?

Set up the saddle properly in relation to the pedals (there are many guides on how to do this), then worry about fitting the front end. Don't push the saddle forward to try make the reach to the handlebars lesser.

 

[Lincon Jackson]

Got a new stem today 35 degree rise 70mm in length. I have also re-adjusted the saddle and made sure my centre of gravity is correct. Took it for a quick test but ended up clocking 30 miles. Needed to tweak the rear mech but all-in-all, everything seems fine.

Interestingly LBS chap noted the bars were a bit large from stem to leading edge so if I still need an adjustment there might be a further possibilities by changing bars.

Cheers

 

[Sittingduck]

Don't let him take you for a cash cow! Good luck with the new setup mind

 

[biggs682]

have swapped stems loads of times and never noticed any twitchiness either way , just try and avoid ending up in front of fr axle

 

[cyberknight]

Get your saddle set back right first in relation to how far back from the pedal crank feels right then sort out your reach.
KOPS is a good a place as any to start from..

 

[Lincon Jackson]

New stem is working well. Although I haven't spent much time riding the bike due to 4 punctures in 5 days. Whats more changing the tube has turned out to be so awkward. After my fist puncture I went to the LBS and bought two 700cx23 tubes took them home and then spent the next 4 hours trying to change the tube. YES, you heard me right 4 HOURS!!!. The new tubes have a treaded presta valve whereas the original tube has a non-threaded presta valve. Other than this no difference. The problem is; I can't get the tyre beads to fit in the bead seat around the valve area becuacse the extra padding around the valve is too big. I have since managed to seat the tyre bit the presta valve only protrudes the rim by approximately 10mm, hardly enough to pump it up - although I have managed to inflate it now. Before I managed to get the new tube in and inflated I repaired the old tube then took the bike for a test on a vist to a mates, whilst sitting haveing a brew the tyre just gave up the ghost - weird. Anybody got any ideas - new tube, old tube, mystery punctures, slime tubes, any suggestions welcome??????? Starting to feel like the big puncture man in the sky has got it in for me!

 

[asterix]

Did your LBS advise your bike fit? It does sound as if the frame is the wrong size as you should not have to shift the saddle as far forward as poss. AND have as short a stem as poss! Might you be better off with a smaller frame with a shorter top tube? Early this year I bought a bike from Evans thinking I'd need the largest size but the guy told me otherwise and he was right. I do think a bike should feel comfortable as soon as you get on it. Even a little discomfort will be magnified with time and distance.

WRT handling I don't find a shorter stem any problem, in fact I prefer it as steering a bike is as much about balance as anything and a shorter stem gives better feedback. I'd suggest pros use long stems simply to get a lower profile.

 

[asterix]

The problem is; I can't get the tyre beads to fit in the bead seat around the valve area becuacse the extra padding around the valve is too big.

Have you tried pushing the valve in a bit so the valve area 'pops' past the beads into the tyre carcass? Then inflate a little and it should re-emerge. If you leave the tyre bead pressing on the valve surround it might explain your punctures!

 

[PpPete]

New stem is working well. Although I haven't spent much time riding the bike due to 4 punctures in 5 days. Whats more changing the tube has turned out to be so awkward. After my fist puncture I went to the LBS and bought two 700cx23 tubes took them home and then spent the next 4 hours trying to change the tube. YES, you heard me right 4 HOURS!!!. The new tubes have a treaded presta valve whereas the original tube has a non-threaded presta valve. Other than this no difference. The problem is; I can't get the tyre beads to fit in the bead seat around the valve area becuacse the extra padding around the valve is too big. I have since managed to seat the tyre bit the presta valve only protrudes the rim by approximately 10mm, hardly enough to pump it up - although I have managed to inflate it now. Before I managed to get the new tube in and inflated I repaired the old tube then took the bike for a test on a vist to a mates, whilst sitting haveing a brew the tyre just gave up the ghost - weird. Anybody got any ideas - new tube, old tube, mystery punctures, slime tubes, any suggestions welcome??????? Starting to feel like the big puncture man in the sky has got it in for me!

Sounds like the stock tyres are pretty crap. Depends on the rims but you find it easier to fit tubes with longer stem valves.
My LBS has a choice between 36 & 48 mm valves on their road bike tubes. You can get 60 mm valves for very deep rims too.

Sent from my HTC Wildfire S A510e using Tapatalk 2

 

[Speedking]

wh not go to a shop an ask them to sort it out for you?