frame spacing

[nuovo_record]

the wheel set that i have for the smistral is currently spaced for 126mm, the rear dropout is 120mm.
do you think it's ok to space 6mm on an old 531 frame or should i lose a couple of mm from the axle and spring the frame out about 4mm?
just worried that 6mm might be too much.

 

[swee'pea99]

I've done it twice with no problems. At first it's a bit of a wrestle to get the wheel in, but once you get the hang of it, it's easy. Certainly no danger of damage or anything like that.

 

[Joe24]

Heres a way to show you how much flew the drop outs have(i got shown it by someone else)
Get someone to measure the drop outs. Then, with your hand, open the space of the drop outs up abit, without using too much preasure. When you have them open with the bit of preassure on them get them to meassure it again.

It will be fine.
On my 130mm spaced frame, i have a 125 spaced wheel in. No problems.

 

[nuovo_record]

i've flexed the dropouts on my other frame from 126 to 130mm...just really not sure "how much is too much"....6mm i thought would have been too much and this frame is somewhat older

 

[jimboalee]

When the locknut faces on the wheel spindle are 126mm and the dropout faces are 120mm, you will need to pull the stays open manualy to get the wheel in.
By doing so, the dropout faces become non parallel. When you close the QR, the pressure squeezes the dropout faces ( not parallel ) onto the locknut faces ( parallel ). One of the two has to bend.

Be aware it will probably be the spindle that will bend when the locknut faces are squeezed out of parallel to match the dropouts.

If you intend to use the 126mm wheel in that frame ALWAYS, do some mechanical adjustment ( bend ) of the dropouts. Risky, because you will also be bending the paint. Also risky because if one pair of seat and chain stays bends easier, the dropouts will no longer be eqi-distant from the frame's centre line.

When I 'upped' from 5 to 6 on my Pug, LA Cycles in Coventry manipulated the frame to suit the wider wheel. They have one of Dawes' old jigs, so it is now quite precise and trustworthy.
The chrome didn't suffer either .

 

[nuovo_record]

i might see if i can reduce the spaing of the axle, it used to have 6 speed but now it's back to five so i may be able to do something there. don't want to spoil the chrome either...

 

[asterix]

When I went from 126 to 130 cold setting (also 531), I used the late great Sheldon Brown's advice. It worked very well and in fact I overdid the spacing slightly and had to push it back a bit. It was also necessary to adjust both sides to ensure frame symetry. No paint was harmed in this process!

An LBS I use wouldn't do it but since then they have done a repair for me that is a lot more mind-blowing than just springing the rear forks

 

[gbb]

You're only opening the width by 3mm each side...
I opened my 531 frame from 120 to 130mm for modern wheels without problem. Personally, i've had no problems with axles snapping, derailleur hanger alignment...everything dropped in and worked.

The dangers i noticed opening mine up was the brake bridge might have seperated. But they didnt. I guess if the frames solid, you shouldnt have any problems. But if there are any weaknesses.....you may find them

 

[nuovo_record]

well, i dropped the wheel straight in, without any need to respace----i used to run it in a 126mm frame, and the SM i am sure is 120mm, so problem solved i think...thanks for the advice all